LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Need info on LT1's

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Old Jun 1, 2007 | 09:37 AM
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Default Need info on LT1's

Feel free to move this to where you desire. I thought this might be the best place, but im new here so i might be wrong.

Ok, as you can tell im a Mustang guy. I have wanted a LS1 Bird forever. I like The SS' too but not as much. Well in my area i cant touch a fair milage good condition LS1 for under 19-20k.

So with that said i am going to sell my 98, only makes around 250 to the wheels. I want more for my money. So i thought a Lt1 would suite me well. Well i have been a Fox body Mustang guy for a while before my 98 and i know mods are cheap and easy. I can have 350 to the wheels quite easy. I wanna bei n the 12's with a DD.

What is a good price for a Lt1 bird or camaro. What should i look for so as i dont get scammed. I dont know much about these cars. So im pretty much a newb. I was just reading a guy with a Lt1 with a decent cam, full exhaust and CAI was on a good tune 340-360 to the wheels. That would be perfect for me. So i guess i would just like a lesson on the Lt1. What are the best mods for good potential. Are the rear ends junk on these cars too ? I wanna run DR's.
Thanks for anything,

Matt.
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Old Jun 1, 2007 | 09:48 AM
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Ummm.... hmmmm. where do I start...

Originally Posted by casper98gt
Well in my area i cant touch a fair milage good condition LS1 for under 19-20k. .
Do you live in Iraq?
You can get a nice 60K-90K LS1 for $7000-$15,000,
depending on year, condition, options, etc...


Originally Posted by casper98gt
What is a good price for a Lt1 bird or camaro. What should i look for so as i dont get scammed. I dont know much about these cars. So im pretty much a newb.
You should be able to get a real nice LT1 for around $4,000-$8,000.
Look for no rust, no winters, adult owners and test drive it for a solid drivetrain.

Originally Posted by casper98gt
I was just reading a guy with a Lt1 with a decent cam, full exhaust and CAI was on a good tune 340-360 to the wheels.
I think you talking about Merv. His LT1 ran strong, and I believe he had some minor weight reduction.
An intake, headers, catback, and cam should get you into 12's with DR's.
Cam only LT1's don't make as good power as Cam only LS1's because the headflow is just so superior.

Nothing a nice Heads/Cam package won't fix

And the Stock 10 bolt (rearend) is ok.
Don't mess with the gears and it should last many passes with DR's, but even then it hurts it.
Some people have good luck with it, others...not so much.
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Old Jun 1, 2007 | 10:02 AM
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people change from fords to chevy's every day.
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Old Jun 1, 2007 | 10:13 AM
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THanks guys. I actually live in NEw Hampshire. There are Mustangs by the boat load, but not many Lt1/Ls1s for sale here. Im gonna go to the F-body shootout here in Epping,NH at the drag way and see if i can find a good deal on some. I should check out the for sale section in the NE section.

When searching for one, do they have diff. rear end gears? Like Mustang had 2.73/3.27/3.55 ect.. and can i tell by Door tag?

How expensive are the mods and how are they to do ? A list of a few good places to look would be great. Also is the motor a PITA to workon like Ls1 ?

Thanks alot and you guys are great help. Nice to see Lt1 guys are nicer than Ls1 guys. Or is it just me.

And yea...alot of guys go ford to chevy and also chevy to ford. I used to be Pro Mustang...until i got spanked hard by a Ls1. I beat one at the track, but he had bad traction so i still thought my pny was cool. Until we took it to a highway roll....WOW is all i can say. And I have heard good things aboutthe Lt1s from Ls1 guys and from reading in here.

Thanks again
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Old Jun 1, 2007 | 10:16 AM
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Hell, you don't even need a cam to hit 12s if you plan the parts out correctly. LTs, CAI, stall or clutch, D.R.s, and a set of 3.73s(auto) or 4.10s(stick) should get you there. If that doesn't, then a couple suspension parts would put you over the edge.

Some of the better running, and better planned out, cars are running 11s cam only. Granted, most of those are solid roller setups, but who cares? I'd DD a solid roller.
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Old Jun 1, 2007 | 10:18 AM
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Autos got 2.73s. Stick cars I believe got 3.42s.

As far as working on the motor, it's a little cramped in there. Plugs and wires are a bitch. Headers are a bitch. Most everything s a bitch. Doesn't stop me though.
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Old Jun 1, 2007 | 10:37 AM
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I would only get a manual anyways.

Are the headers like remove the front cradle, or is can i do it in the car? Im a Ford/toyota tech and i do stuff all the time that sucks. And im the same way nothing stops me from power. Im just sick of throwing money at mine and not getting much. I went from 190 to the wheels to 250. And i have spend alot of money and im done.

What can i expect for a stock dyno ?
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Old Jun 1, 2007 | 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by casper98gt
I would only get a manual anyways.

Are the headers like remove the front cradle, or is can i do it in the car? Im a Ford/toyota tech and i do stuff all the time that sucks. And im the same way nothing stops me from power. Im just sick of throwing money at mine and not getting much. I went from 190 to the wheels to 250. And i have spend alot of money and im done.

What can i expect for a stock dyno ?
To install long tube headers depending on the brand some will slide right in others you will have to jack up one side of the engine and then the other side.

A stock m6 Lt1 should dyno around 270-290 horsepower and around 290-310 torque.

Last edited by lt197formula; Jun 1, 2007 at 11:17 AM.
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Old Jun 1, 2007 | 11:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Rowdy94
Autos got 2.73s. Stick cars I believe got 3.42s.
some of the auto's are 2.73, and some are 3.23

im not sure how to tell exactly without driving it.
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Old Jun 1, 2007 | 11:19 AM
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Originally Posted by lt197formula
To install long tube headers depending on the brand some will slide right in others you will have to jack up one side of the engine and then the other side.

A stock m6 Lt1 should dyno around 260-280 horsepower and around 280-300 torque I think?

I would also say that you should go ahead and replace motor mounts, plugs, and wires when headers are done. Makes it a lot easier, and in the case of the mounts, it eliminates some problems you can have with the headers banging.

But back on topic, I'd say go ahead and bring a nice LT1 home. They'll run damn near forever, and I believe they are the best bang for your buck engine you can get. I can't justify spending a lot more money on an LS1 just for a second at the track. I'd rather put the 4-5K difference into my LT1 and have a car that you don't see all of the time.

Go outside ad throw a rock. You'll hit an LS1. Or a Mustang.
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Old Jun 1, 2007 | 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by LT1MAN
some of the auto's are 2.73, and some are 3.73

im not sure how to tell exactly without driving it.

Are you sure you didn't mean 3.23? I've never heard of one with 3.73s.

And you out to be able to check the RPO codes to find out.
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Old Jun 1, 2007 | 11:22 AM
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Welcome fo the Forum..

These cars run real strong with your basic Bolt-ons, alot of the factory things is what hinders the performance. They are not as strong as the LS1, but they do the job very well.

Stock I put down 262/295 at the Wheels through the A4, that is pretty much what everyone gets.
These cars can be a pain to work on, you will have some fun doing it. To see what options a car has in it, look in the Glove Box. All M6's had 3.42 Gears in them from the Factory, regardless of the Year. The A4's were either 2.73, or 3.23. A quick way to tell that is the Shifter, the Code is also in the Glove Box.

What I had setup was actually the "small" Cam Package for this Engine, and it made just about 340's to the ground through the Auto. It was a stock-spec, 350ci Engine with boltons, and minor Head work. I fully-built it, and had it all Balanced.. all the good stuff. It ran high 12.5's, and I drove it to work every day. I had minor weight reduction..Spare Tire, Rear Seats, and the complete AC System. I have a Factory Anorexic..

I decided to sell it and put the new Engine in just to see how it would do with that kind of a setup, since it was a hell of a runner with the LT1.

Have fun, hope you find something.
Originally Posted by casper98gt
Thanks alot and you guys are great help. Nice to see Lt1 guys are nicer than Ls1 guys. Or is it just me.
You have no idea.. I had a thread about that..

Last edited by the_merv; Jun 1, 2007 at 12:44 PM.
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Old Jun 1, 2007 | 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Rowdy94
Are you sure you didn't mean 3.23? I've never heard of one with 3.73s.

And you can check the RPO codes to find out.
yes i did mean 3.23, my bad
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Old Jun 1, 2007 | 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by the_merv
Welcome fo the Forum..

The A4's were either 2.73, or 3.23. A quick way to tell that is the Shifter, the Code is also in the Glove Box.

Ahh damnit. I should have remembered that. I just cut my damn stop off of the shifter to be able to have first gear.
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Old Jun 1, 2007 | 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by LT1MAN
some of the auto's are 2.73, and some are 3.73

im not sure how to tell exactly without driving it.
No, it's 2.73's and 3.23's. You can tell by an RPO code or if first gear is selectable on the shifter, it has 3.23's.

Originally Posted by lt197formula
To install long tube headers depending on the brand some will slide right in others you will have to jack up one side of the engine and then the other side.

A stock m6 Lt1 should dyno around 270-290 horsepower and around 290-310 torque.
270/290 would be a very very good dyno for a stock LT1. 290/310 is unpossible.
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Old Jun 1, 2007 | 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by casper98gt
And yea...alot of guys go ford to chevy and also chevy to ford.
Thanks again
true, true....

i was a mustang guy for about 5 minutes until i found out what a z28 was.
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Old Jun 1, 2007 | 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Rowdy94
Go outside ad throw a rock. You'll hit an LS1. Or a Mustang.
Hit my car...I'll throw it back at ya..

One thing about the LT1's is that they will last forever. That Iron Block Engine is a beautiful thing..
I hope my new one works out just as good..power of an LS1, and dependability of a LT1.
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Old Jun 1, 2007 | 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Mattybz28
No, it's 2.73's and 3.23's. You can tell by an RPO code or if first gear is selectable on the shifter, it has 3.23's.


270/290 would be a very very good dyno for a stock LT1. 290/310 is unpossible.


****(Goes and looks up the word "unpossible" in the dictionary.)
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Old Jun 1, 2007 | 11:57 AM
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Rowdy - I agree with doing those other things while installing headers and might as well remove the air and egr crap too.

Matty - We are talking about a m6 Lt1... Go look in the dyno archives I saw a few of guys put down over 270/290 stock. Don't forget about the freak cars that put down 280-290 hp and 300-310 tq bone stock.

"Unpossible" haha
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Old Jun 1, 2007 | 12:04 PM
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Wow thanks guys. I like how nice people are in here and correct information and debate about it. Those numbers are great enough for me. 350 should be very easy. I will only get a M6, so no more debate about the auto cars.

EGr/Air stuff you talk about....equal to the egr/air pump BS on Mustangs?

Mattybz28....Im Matty B too. haha.

Thanks again guys. Any links to useful info would be great. I'll do some more searching.

Matt
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