355ci question
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From: Decatur, TN (N-W of Athens)
And to clarify, 3.48" stroke is a stock 350 (among others). I don't even think they make any smaller overbore pistons than .030. So any rebuild you get would basically be a 355. .040 is 357/358 (depends on who you ask),
Originally Posted by LT1Drew
IS a 355 reliable because i've never had a car punched out before and i am about to yank the motor out and rebuild...or should i just go 383?
Built correctly being the key phrase....
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It all depends on what you want if you don't really want a lot of performance just a good motor either will be fine but a 355 would be fine. performance wise they are two different beast a 355 is usually built to rev high around 68-7000k and use a high stall 3600+ if auto. a 383 is a more street able motor depending on how you define it a 383 will make the power lower in the band need less stall and have more street manners and pretty much instant torque, But both motors can be built to make the same amount of power 
its just were the power is at is the biggest difference.
its just were the power is at is the biggest difference. 
Yeah the 355 vs 383 question has been bounced back and forth for an eternity on here.... I've owned a nasty 355 LT1 and now I'm building a much nastier 383. So I'll tell you what my opinion is....
To me I think it comes down to #1 whether or not you have the cash to do the entire rotating assy. If you plan on reusing the stock crank which is plenty strong then buy some 6" rods and some good forged pistons and spend the money you didn't spend on crank/block machining on your heads/valvetrain/cam.... Put the .030 overbore on that badboy and enjoy your 355...
On the other hand if you have the cash to do the whole rotating assy I don't see any reason why you wouldn't get the 3.75" forged crank versus teh 3.48" crank... the added cubes will get you more torque, the block clearancing required is not all that bad and the extra cubes will eat up some of the cam's choppiness making for a more driveable combo....
So it comes down to you and your wallet. There still is no replacement for displacement but don't blow money on stuff you dont necessarily need when the stock crank will handle a lot of abuse and you can make a reasonable amount of power with a properly built 355.
To me I think it comes down to #1 whether or not you have the cash to do the entire rotating assy. If you plan on reusing the stock crank which is plenty strong then buy some 6" rods and some good forged pistons and spend the money you didn't spend on crank/block machining on your heads/valvetrain/cam.... Put the .030 overbore on that badboy and enjoy your 355...
On the other hand if you have the cash to do the whole rotating assy I don't see any reason why you wouldn't get the 3.75" forged crank versus teh 3.48" crank... the added cubes will get you more torque, the block clearancing required is not all that bad and the extra cubes will eat up some of the cam's choppiness making for a more driveable combo....
So it comes down to you and your wallet. There still is no replacement for displacement but don't blow money on stuff you dont necessarily need when the stock crank will handle a lot of abuse and you can make a reasonable amount of power with a properly built 355.
Originally Posted by Formula350
I don't even think they make any smaller overbore pistons than .030. So any rebuild you get would basically be a 355. .040 is 357/358 (depends on who you ask),
I am bored .020 over and run forged .020 over pistons, giving me a 353ci LT1.