LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Change head bolts for head studs?

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Old 06-12-2007 | 10:30 AM
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Question Change head bolts for head studs?

My engine was built with ARP head bolts. Can I swap to studs without any issues?

I may not have to do it, but if the boost is lifting the heads (it may be, doing the checks now) I will need to do something.

BTW, the engine has only 1000miles and 4 passes down the 1320.

Thanks in advance!
Old 06-12-2007 | 10:33 AM
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yeah, no reason you cant swap to them. just be sure to use thread sealant on the studs. why do you think you need to though? I'd check and make sure your head bolts are torqued correctly first.
Old 06-12-2007 | 11:10 AM
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You can go to studs but if you do not use the correct sealant on them...they will leak.
Old 06-12-2007 | 11:31 AM
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Yep, I was already planning to hit Harold up for some of that good blue stuff.

We're getting a high rpm miss and have just about eliminated everything else as a problem. Opening the opti up when I get home to see if anything came apart inside. After that check, we have one theory with the fuel system to check. If its not one of those two, the only thing left is the heads lifting when teh boost gets up to 13+ psi. The heads have been retorqued already (about 4 bolts per head were slightly shy of spec).
When I get it all back together were gonna do some more testing. So by the end of the week we'll either have it sorted out or be ordering a set of studs to clamp her down better.

Ive been going to the track with a local N20 guy that suggested lifting the heads could cause the exact issue Im having. He's got a deep 8sec S-10 with a 410ci SBC making upwards of 1200 flywheel hp. When he gets too much cylinder pressure and lifts a head, he gets a high rpm miss from water entering the cylinder. Then it runs fine off the juice and checks out fine for compression upon testing.
Old 06-12-2007 | 05:00 PM
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Head studs are a must IMO on any engine making over 400rwhp,

Shouldnt be to hard of a swap if your taking the bolts off anyway.

Tony.

Last edited by Speed Density; 06-12-2007 at 05:08 PM.
Old 06-13-2007 | 10:37 AM
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Be careful trying to do this in the car, the high HP LT1 blocks will leak with studs. You have to make sure all the water is out and the studs and the threads in the block are clean and dry. Even the bad dude blue stuff won't seal unless everything is clean and dry.

If you are lifting the heads you should see some water down the side of the block.

Give me a call and we can go over this before you decide to make the change.

Harold
512-257-0222

Originally Posted by Fire67
Yep, I was already planning to hit Harold up for some of that good blue stuff.

We're getting a high rpm miss and have just about eliminated everything else as a problem. Opening the opti up when I get home to see if anything came apart inside. After that check, we have one theory with the fuel system to check. If its not one of those two, the only thing left is the heads lifting when teh boost gets up to 13+ psi. The heads have been retorqued already (about 4 bolts per head were slightly shy of spec).
When I get it all back together were gonna do some more testing. So by the end of the week we'll either have it sorted out or be ordering a set of studs to clamp her down better.

Ive been going to the track with a local N20 guy that suggested lifting the heads could cause the exact issue Im having. He's got a deep 8sec S-10 with a 410ci SBC making upwards of 1200 flywheel hp. When he gets too much cylinder pressure and lifts a head, he gets a high rpm miss from water entering the cylinder. Then it runs fine off the juice and checks out fine for compression upon testing.
Old 06-13-2007 | 11:08 AM
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I had wanted to swap for head studs a while back but was afraid I'd lose my head seal. How would you know you had all the water out without physically tearing it down?
Old 06-13-2007 | 12:05 PM
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dhdenney- You just have to pull the drain plug on the drivers side of the block, and the knock sensor on the other side. This will drain the water jackets after the rest of the system has been drained. Not too big of a deal, just tedious.

Harold, I will give you a call on this. Just trying to eliminate all other possible problems first. Id rather not do this if I dont have to.

On a side note, since we've been having issues with the converter... Im gonna wait on that custom grind cam for a good while. And just try to get the most out of the current setup first. When the time comes, I'll have you get the cam and intake going for me at the same time.

For now, its down to finding time to work on it and sort the bugs out. As well as install the Accel DFI setup.
Old 06-13-2007 | 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Fire67
dhdenney- You just have to pull the drain plug on the drivers side of the block, and the knock sensor on the other side. This will drain the water jackets after the rest of the system has been drained. Not too big of a deal, just tedious.
Yeah I know where they are I just didn't know if that'd do it or not. I would be afraid a few water/glycol molecules would still be lurking around the head bolt holes.
Old 06-13-2007 | 05:24 PM
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another one of the tricks that my engine builder told me about getting the head studs to seal in addition to the proper sealant is that you put the studs in and IMMEDIATELY Put the head on and get to torquing before the sealant has had time to dry. If the sealant dries and then you torque the stud the small bit of movement the stud will experience will twist and crack the sealant causing a small path up the stud and out the motor... if you do it when it's still wet it will bond that way without any passageways... when he explained it to me it made sense....
Old 06-13-2007 | 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by OutlawZ
another one of the tricks that my engine builder told me about getting the head studs to seal in addition to the proper sealant is that you put the studs in and IMMEDIATELY Put the head on and get to torquing before the sealant has had time to dry. If the sealant dries and then you torque the stud the small bit of movement the stud will experience will twist and crack the sealant causing a small path up the stud and out the motor... if you do it when it's still wet it will bond that way without any passageways... when he explained it to me it made sense....

Yea I think most people would know that. The stuff I recenty used cures in 3 hours.
Old 06-13-2007 | 05:35 PM
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Hey tony ain't you supposed to be working????? How's everyone supposed to get parts for their cars if you're slappin keys on the net during company time????

Old 06-13-2007 | 05:41 PM
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Hush you! I can multi-task!
Old 06-13-2007 | 05:43 PM
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Yeah right..... sorry bout the hijack but cometic finally pulled their heads out and my gaskets arrived today.... heads will be back on by friday....
Old 06-13-2007 | 07:24 PM
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Good to know. Better hurry or I will be the 3rd LT1 in the 8's.
Old 06-13-2007 | 07:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Tony Shepherd
Good to know. Better hurry or I will be the 3rd LT1 in the 8's.

You is a H4x0r, im going to be 3rd







Tony.
Old 06-13-2007 | 07:41 PM
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Tony you can't be 3rd. You keep selling all your parts!
Old 06-13-2007 | 07:47 PM
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Whats you talking bout willis?

Im not selling them, im just doing a bit of swapping

Tony.
Old 06-13-2007 | 08:40 PM
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HAHAHAHAHA You guys know i'm going to be third....

Tony can't keep a tranny in that thing..... How do I know? Cause his tranny guy has been "convinced" by a few alexander hamilton's to put crappy parts into his 400 until my engine is in the car....
Old 06-13-2007 | 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by OutlawZ
HAHAHAHAHA You guys know i'm going to be third....

Tony can't keep a tranny in that thing..... How do I know? Cause his tranny guy has been "convinced" by a few alexander hamilton's to put crappy parts into his 400 until my engine is in the car....


If you only knew how much I have paid your engine builder to forget a few torque specs you would be skeerd!



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