Change head bolts for head studs?
Change head bolts for head studs? My engine was built with ARP head bolts. Can I swap to studs without any issues?
I may not have to do it, but if the boost is lifting the heads (it may be, doing the checks now) I will need to do something.
BTW, the engine has only 1000miles and 4 passes down the 1320.
Thanks in advance!
I may not have to do it, but if the boost is lifting the heads (it may be, doing the checks now) I will need to do something.
BTW, the engine has only 1000miles and 4 passes down the 1320.
Thanks in advance!
yeah, no reason you cant swap to them. just be sure to use thread sealant on the studs. why do you think you need to though? I'd check and make sure your head bolts are torqued correctly first.
Yep, I was already planning to hit Harold up for some of that good blue stuff.
We're getting a high rpm miss and have just about eliminated everything else as a problem. Opening the opti up when I get home to see if anything came apart inside. After that check, we have one theory with the fuel system to check. If its not one of those two, the only thing left is the heads lifting when teh boost gets up to 13+ psi. The heads have been retorqued already (about 4 bolts per head were slightly shy of spec).
When I get it all back together were gonna do some more testing. So by the end of the week we'll either have it sorted out or be ordering a set of studs to clamp her down better.
Ive been going to the track with a local N20 guy that suggested lifting the heads could cause the exact issue Im having. He's got a deep 8sec S-10 with a 410ci SBC making upwards of 1200 flywheel hp. When he gets too much cylinder pressure and lifts a head, he gets a high rpm miss from water entering the cylinder. Then it runs fine off the juice and checks out fine for compression upon testing.
We're getting a high rpm miss and have just about eliminated everything else as a problem. Opening the opti up when I get home to see if anything came apart inside. After that check, we have one theory with the fuel system to check. If its not one of those two, the only thing left is the heads lifting when teh boost gets up to 13+ psi. The heads have been retorqued already (about 4 bolts per head were slightly shy of spec).
When I get it all back together were gonna do some more testing. So by the end of the week we'll either have it sorted out or be ordering a set of studs to clamp her down better.
Ive been going to the track with a local N20 guy that suggested lifting the heads could cause the exact issue Im having. He's got a deep 8sec S-10 with a 410ci SBC making upwards of 1200 flywheel hp. When he gets too much cylinder pressure and lifts a head, he gets a high rpm miss from water entering the cylinder. Then it runs fine off the juice and checks out fine for compression upon testing.
Head studs are a must IMO on any engine making over 400rwhp,
Shouldnt be to hard of a swap if your taking the bolts off anyway.
Tony.
Shouldnt be to hard of a swap if your taking the bolts off anyway.
Tony.
Last edited by Speed Density; Jun 12, 2007 at 04:08 PM.
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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 199
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From: Austin, Texas
Be careful trying to do this in the car, the high HP LT1 blocks will leak with studs. You have to make sure all the water is out and the studs and the threads in the block are clean and dry. Even the bad dude blue stuff won't seal unless everything is clean and dry.
If you are lifting the heads you should see some water down the side of the block.
Give me a call and we can go over this before you decide to make the change.
Harold
512-257-0222
If you are lifting the heads you should see some water down the side of the block.
Give me a call and we can go over this before you decide to make the change.
Harold
512-257-0222
Originally Posted by Fire67
Yep, I was already planning to hit Harold up for some of that good blue stuff.
We're getting a high rpm miss and have just about eliminated everything else as a problem. Opening the opti up when I get home to see if anything came apart inside. After that check, we have one theory with the fuel system to check. If its not one of those two, the only thing left is the heads lifting when teh boost gets up to 13+ psi. The heads have been retorqued already (about 4 bolts per head were slightly shy of spec).
When I get it all back together were gonna do some more testing. So by the end of the week we'll either have it sorted out or be ordering a set of studs to clamp her down better.
Ive been going to the track with a local N20 guy that suggested lifting the heads could cause the exact issue Im having. He's got a deep 8sec S-10 with a 410ci SBC making upwards of 1200 flywheel hp. When he gets too much cylinder pressure and lifts a head, he gets a high rpm miss from water entering the cylinder. Then it runs fine off the juice and checks out fine for compression upon testing.
We're getting a high rpm miss and have just about eliminated everything else as a problem. Opening the opti up when I get home to see if anything came apart inside. After that check, we have one theory with the fuel system to check. If its not one of those two, the only thing left is the heads lifting when teh boost gets up to 13+ psi. The heads have been retorqued already (about 4 bolts per head were slightly shy of spec).
When I get it all back together were gonna do some more testing. So by the end of the week we'll either have it sorted out or be ordering a set of studs to clamp her down better.
Ive been going to the track with a local N20 guy that suggested lifting the heads could cause the exact issue Im having. He's got a deep 8sec S-10 with a 410ci SBC making upwards of 1200 flywheel hp. When he gets too much cylinder pressure and lifts a head, he gets a high rpm miss from water entering the cylinder. Then it runs fine off the juice and checks out fine for compression upon testing.
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dhdenney- You just have to pull the drain plug on the drivers side of the block, and the knock sensor on the other side. This will drain the water jackets after the rest of the system has been drained. Not too big of a deal, just tedious.
Harold, I will give you a call on this. Just trying to eliminate all other possible problems first. Id rather not do this if I dont have to.
On a side note, since we've been having issues with the converter... Im gonna wait on that custom grind cam for a good while. And just try to get the most out of the current setup first. When the time comes, I'll have you get the cam and intake going for me at the same time.
For now, its down to finding time to work on it and sort the bugs out. As well as install the Accel DFI setup.
Harold, I will give you a call on this. Just trying to eliminate all other possible problems first. Id rather not do this if I dont have to.
On a side note, since we've been having issues with the converter... Im gonna wait on that custom grind cam for a good while. And just try to get the most out of the current setup first. When the time comes, I'll have you get the cam and intake going for me at the same time.
For now, its down to finding time to work on it and sort the bugs out. As well as install the Accel DFI setup.
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Originally Posted by Fire67
dhdenney- You just have to pull the drain plug on the drivers side of the block, and the knock sensor on the other side. This will drain the water jackets after the rest of the system has been drained. Not too big of a deal, just tedious.
another one of the tricks that my engine builder told me about getting the head studs to seal in addition to the proper sealant is that you put the studs in and IMMEDIATELY Put the head on and get to torquing before the sealant has had time to dry. If the sealant dries and then you torque the stud the small bit of movement the stud will experience will twist and crack the sealant causing a small path up the stud and out the motor... if you do it when it's still wet it will bond that way without any passageways... when he explained it to me it made sense....
Originally Posted by OutlawZ
another one of the tricks that my engine builder told me about getting the head studs to seal in addition to the proper sealant is that you put the studs in and IMMEDIATELY Put the head on and get to torquing before the sealant has had time to dry. If the sealant dries and then you torque the stud the small bit of movement the stud will experience will twist and crack the sealant causing a small path up the stud and out the motor... if you do it when it's still wet it will bond that way without any passageways... when he explained it to me it made sense....
Yea I think most people would know that. The stuff I recenty used cures in 3 hours.
HAHAHAHAHA You guys know i'm going to be third....
Tony can't keep a tranny in that thing..... How do I know? Cause his tranny guy has been "convinced" by a few alexander hamilton's to put crappy parts into his 400 until my engine is in the car....
Tony can't keep a tranny in that thing..... How do I know? Cause his tranny guy has been "convinced" by a few alexander hamilton's to put crappy parts into his 400 until my engine is in the car....
Originally Posted by OutlawZ
HAHAHAHAHA You guys know i'm going to be third....
Tony can't keep a tranny in that thing..... How do I know? Cause his tranny guy has been "convinced" by a few alexander hamilton's to put crappy parts into his 400 until my engine is in the car....
Tony can't keep a tranny in that thing..... How do I know? Cause his tranny guy has been "convinced" by a few alexander hamilton's to put crappy parts into his 400 until my engine is in the car....
If you only knew how much I have paid your engine builder to forget a few torque specs you would be skeerd!
