funniest topic in the LTx secion in a long time! i wish i can put a vid in my sig!

thoes are the injectors. then the 2nd vid are fuel lines and the fuel return line and evap.

 

ok i got it now lol wow i actually thought those was the spark plugs lol ok thanks. And work with me pls lol i kno i got some learning todo does anyone have pics of the spark plugs like in the car.

 

hope this helps

 

lol Wow, I wish I had read this earlier. That_guy, you really are the poster child for Rednecks with Fbodies "H'yuck, dur?" I know, you got this car from your dad. I'm an ***, I'm sorry

That is actually probably going to hurt you more often than not, in this case. He learned one of two things in that class. The spark plugs get their spark from coil packs, or the distributor is in the BACK of the motor. When he doesn't see either of them, he'll probably start to cry

There really isn't any easy way to go about explaining it to a total novice. If you had any automotive experience, then that's a start. If you had changed plugs on an older school Chevy Small Block, you'd have a basis to start on. When you pull off your plug wires, make SURE to have some masking tape handy and a pen/marker. Label EVERY plug wire with where it came out of. However you have to do it, so they go back on correctly, do it. A, B, C, D, or 1, 2, 3, 4, I don't care. Do it. If they don't go on correctly and you've forgotten how, then we're in a pickle. AND DON'T EVER DROP THE SPARK PLUGS. If you do, go buy a new one. Don't make us explain "Gapping" to you

This is the best advice I can give you. Have some money handy. I have a feeling you'll need it for a few possible reasons: You're going to screw it up and have to have someone come OUT to do it or you'll have to have it TOWED to a shop. Or you'll get frustrated and have to do either of those still.

Secondly, buy a Chilton's or Hayes (Haynes?) Manual from the local auto parts store (Wal-Mart isn't your local auto parts store). It'll give step by step and pictures. What did we learn when we were kids? WE LOVE PICTURES!! It's only like $8-15.

I wish I had better/more advice for you :\

 

****..he might as well put Headers on it while he is there..he might end up taking the Manifolds off to get to the Plugs..

He better have a Bachelors Degree in that class for this Engine..I bet he will say the same things that you will when he starts looking for stuff. This Engine is alot different than a SBC 350.

Then we will really confuse the **** out of him when we explain to him how the Flux Capacitor works..


Damn I'm so glad that I am switching to the LS Engine...20 min Plug Changes..

 

My bro's 2004 LS1 GTO - 10 minutes a side to change all four plugs

My 96 LT4 Firebird - 10 minutes a side to try and visually find all four plugs!

All hail the LS Series!

 

are you referring to the cylinder lay out on the motor or the lay out on the opti? cause the opti layout is: top to bottem, left side as you face the front of the engine is #4-6-8-2, the right is #5-3-7-1. the motor lay out as you face it/looking twards the tranny: 2-4-6-8 on the left and 1-3-5-7 on the right. on GM motors the cylinder head that sticks out a little further than the other one is called your "odd bank" and the other is your "even bank". I also recommend a small amount of Anti-seize on each plug at the thread and only on the thread, it helps you remove the plug at your next plug change. But rember to tighten the plugs or torque them so they will stay in the motor untill you want them out. feel free to ask me if this is not clear.

 

Dude, let me help you out some. If you want help on here, learn how to type. Seriously, it's not asking that much for you to use proper capitalization and punctuation. It really pains me to read your ****. I have an eight year old brother, and he can write in complete sentences.


This next statement may make me seem like a ****, but it is meant in no offense to the original poster.

This is a prime example of why you should not listen to somebody's advice based solely on their post count.

O.K. maybe there was a little ******** in that. But more seriously, we are all learning here, you just seem a bit behind for 500-some posts.

 

BACK

FRONT

Firing order is on the top, 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2.

Found a SBC pic, edited it to be larger, more accurate, and resembling a LT1 ALL HAIL M$ PAINT!

 

I agree 100%, I just couldn't bring myself to post it lol >_>

 

wow... thats about the only word that comes to mind

 

Thanks.

 

I don't even know how to reply to this thread, but..... IN before this becomes famous.

 

ok i got it now lol im glad i have you guys to tell me about this and lt1 man that pic did help me alot,merv i wish i had the money for headers lol and another engine that isnt 260,000 miles lol.

And as for the posts i dont even remember half of the stuff posted but some was from helping people out now im not that dump on engines , just need a lil help on somethings.

 

That engine looks absolutely awesome LT1MAN.

 

This is all my fault, I told him to do a full tuneup in an earlier thread, and even gave him a parts list

Good luck!

 

LYNCH HIMMMM!! lol

 

I read somewhere that you're supposed to seafoam with fresh oil.

 

The best thing with Seafoam is: Get 3 cans. Goto the gas station with an empty tank, put one can in the tank, fill it up. Put one can (follow directions for amount) in the crank case. Then some where less public (your house works if neighbors are nice), and hook one can up to your PCV system (or dump it in the intake) and then keep it running by giving it enough gas. Do that for about 1/2 the can and then dump it all in the intake and kill the motor. Let it sit for about 10-15mins and start it up. It'll smoke far more than before and start hard. It'll also smoke quite awhile

After your gas tank is empty (250-350 miles) it's time for your oil change because the Seafoam in the crank case has softened up all the sludge and dropped it to the bottom of your pan, not something you want to be putting through your system.

 

The only reason you would need to do that is if the car is WAY over due on an oil change and you know seafoam is going to clean that puppy good. If you put the seafoam in your crankcase, then it going to make your oil more sluggish. So again, if the oil is already sluggish, then seafoam will make it really bad that may cause some problems.