LT1 Mile Limit
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Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Des Moines, IA
LT1 Mile Limit I'm in the market for a LT1 F-body, with an M6. My question is, as what mileage do they start to fall apart? I see a bunch with around 120-160 thousand miles on them for sale, but I question their reliability. Should I? Or when should I start to worry about the cars age when I'm thinking about buying it.
just wondering.....why a LT1?....
LT1 motors are very strong, just check the bottom end through oil test or compression checks and just get underneath the car....not many LT1 cars you find are NOT going to have alot of miles on them
LT1 motors are very strong, just check the bottom end through oil test or compression checks and just get underneath the car....not many LT1 cars you find are NOT going to have alot of miles on them
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From: Des Moines, IA
I don't have the cash for an LS-1. the most I can get is about 5 grand and even that's pushing it. I just want something thats fast in a straight line. I'm upgrading from a 1991 Mazda Miata, which, don't get me wrong, was fun as hell, but doesn't push you back in your seat like a V8.
get one with right around 100k. you should be able to pick one up for that much no problem. one thing to check for is the oil pressure. at idle it should be no lower than 15 when hot, you want it at 20 though (mine is much higher). one thing to check when driving it in high rpm's is for ignition to cut or to lose a lot of power. if so chances are good it is a bad opti (the lt1's front mount distributor). Many lt1's have waterpump failures at above 100k. It is a very easy job to replace, so if you get one you may want to put that at the top of your list.
they are very reliable motors. mine has 137k of extremely hard driving its entire life. I know its been beat on since day one, all i do is race it now and it loves it. as long as the car had the oil changed it should be good to go. try to get an early 95, but 95 in general is probably the best year (the early ones had better flowing heads and hardened push rods, i beleive, and it has a vented optispark set up; 94 and 93 had unvented optisparks).
they are very reliable motors. mine has 137k of extremely hard driving its entire life. I know its been beat on since day one, all i do is race it now and it loves it. as long as the car had the oil changed it should be good to go. try to get an early 95, but 95 in general is probably the best year (the early ones had better flowing heads and hardened push rods, i beleive, and it has a vented optispark set up; 94 and 93 had unvented optisparks).
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Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Houston, TX
Originally Posted by fishkilla67
I'm in the market for a LT1 F-body, with an M6. My question is, as what mileage do they start to fall apart? I see a bunch with around 120-160 thousand miles on them for sale, but I question their reliability. Should I? Or when should I start to worry about the cars age when I'm thinking about buying it.
In the future please post in the correct section.....and search before posting. I bet you could answer this question before you posted it.
Thanks,
Craig.
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Originally Posted by romoranger
get one with right around 100k. you should be able to pick one up for that much no problem. one thing to check for is the oil pressure. at idle it should be no lower than 15 when hot, you want it at 20 though (mine is much higher). one thing to check when driving it in high rpm's is for ignition to cut or to lose a lot of power. if so chances are good it is a bad opti (the lt1's front mount distributor). Many lt1's have waterpump failures at above 100k. It is a very easy job to replace, so if you get one you may want to put that at the top of your list.
they are very reliable motors. mine has 137k of extremely hard driving its entire life. I know its been beat on since day one, all i do is race it now and it loves it. as long as the car had the oil changed it should be good to go. try to get an early 95, but 95 in general is probably the best year (the early ones had better flowing heads and hardened push rods, i beleive, and it has a vented optispark set up; 94 and 93 had unvented optisparks).
they are very reliable motors. mine has 137k of extremely hard driving its entire life. I know its been beat on since day one, all i do is race it now and it loves it. as long as the car had the oil changed it should be good to go. try to get an early 95, but 95 in general is probably the best year (the early ones had better flowing heads and hardened push rods, i beleive, and it has a vented optispark set up; 94 and 93 had unvented optisparks).
. They have vented optisparks and come with dual cats good for another 10 HP (but of course you would take the cat(s) off anyway, right?). 
Originally Posted by ecksz28
I'd say 96s are better . They have vented optisparks and come with dual cats good for another 10 HP (but of course you would take the cat(s) off anyway, right?).
. They have vented optisparks and come with dual cats good for another 10 HP (but of course you would take the cat(s) off anyway, right?).96+ Dual Cat cars had ODB2 PCM I believe ( correct me if Im wrong), and are a bitch to tune.
Many have converted from ODB2-ODB1.
To the OP, I would look for a 94-97 M6 Formula or Z28, with about 80-130K.
For $4,000-$5,000, you should be able to get a pretty damn nice car.
If you can get a great deal on a 93 or 94, I wouldn't disclose them totally.
I didn't scan these all too well, but these are some examples of about what you should be lookin at.
Example # 1 : 94 Formula
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Example # 2 : 96 Z28
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Example # 3 : 95 Formula
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From: Decatur, TN (N-W of Athens)
My buddy is going to trade his friend (who's a retard) his 94 Vette for his friends 00+ (00-02, I'm not sure) Jeep Wrangler (New tires, setup for mild off-roading, winch, uninstalled stainless banks exhaust and header) + he pays off my friends loan lol (So he gets about $15K for his Vette). We'll be looking for a FBody for him as well, and I agree 94 or 95 is the year to look for. I love my 93, but I'd prefer being able to tune my car myself and be able to change line pressure via tune as well.
On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Russell,Kansas
i have far less miles than the last 2 posts. mine has 121000 getting close to 122000 and it still runs great. i have had no problems with the water pump or opti yet. all i have done is had the tranny rebuilt about 1000 miles ago. mines still completely bone stock except for a welded in muffler.
On The Tree
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Orlando, FL UCF area
I think LT1s need to be beat on to keep going. When I first got my car, I barely drove it fast. After awhile, I started to drive it hard and have not had any real problems except for crappy autozone batteries. The car had 89k miles also. I got it with 75k in Dec.05.
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From: Decatur, TN (N-W of Athens)
Originally Posted by Hackscamaro
I have had no problems with the water pump or opti yet. mines still completely bone stock except for a welded in muffler.
Originally Posted by RobZ28
I got it with 75k in Dec.05.
What kind of stall you runnin?
I would be looking at PCMforless or Madtuner for a custom tune.
You should be able to hit a rock bottom 13, possible high 12 with your mods.
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From: Decatur, TN (N-W of Athens)
Originally Posted by burnzilla
With all your mods you only run a 13.5, even with Nittos?
What kind of stall you runnin?
I would be looking at PCMforless or Madtuner for a custom tune.
You should be able to hit a rock bottom 13, possible high 12 with your mods.
What kind of stall you runnin?
I would be looking at PCMforless or Madtuner for a custom tune.
You should be able to hit a rock bottom 13, possible high 12 with your mods.