Im Curious As To How Much That Cost To Bro?

 

I just used Duplicolor High Gloss Black 500* paint. Nothing special.
first page very bottom

 

so yall think a studed 2 bolt is as good as a regular 4 bolt? my motor is out and i thought about studing my 2 bolt i know its cheaper than making it a 4 bolt and ill have a lil over 400 on motor and ill have some n20 on it as well so will the studed 2 bolt hold or hell will the factory 2 bolt be ok??

 

that like 5 bucks a can at auto store

 

This thread is a little old! I'm sure dan (the OP) will see this tomorrow night and can say how much he spent.

 

It was right around $200 for the short block, no machine work. Clevite H bearings $90, Hasting moly rings $55, oil pan gasket $18, rear seal $12.

 

My 350 I build had brass plugs and I put some news paper and tape over them and painted it black. After that it looked really slick with the brass plugs That, and GM's ZZ4 I think looks just like that heh

 

How much do you have into the bottom end?

 

lol yeah ^^ im thinking about going all stock bottom- fordged pistions and good rings & berings and stage 1 port job with the Lpe 219 just a fun DD everyone says 5g for a good motor is that race or what?

 

Right around $200

 

still how were they all stock parts from previous engine? the lt1 comes with mahle?

Specs are:

-Factory 2 bolt main block
-Factory main caps and bolts
-Factory crankshaft
-Factory rods and bolts
-Factory Mahle pistons
-Factory timing set (new GM chain, GM Vortec cam sprocket)
-Factory oil pump
-Clevite "H" series bearings
-Hastings moly rings
-Custom grind cam by Bret Bauer

.030" deck height
Standard bore

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Just kiddin, no 1100hp goal[/QUOTE]

 

Yeah it was all stock parts as far as pistons, rods, crank, and hardware. Yes LT1s have Mahle hypereutectic pistons from the factory.

 

cool thanks.

 

For what its worth, I ran a stock cast crank, 2 bolt studded arp main BB chev for 3 years in my low 10 high 9 sec (137mph) n/a street car. Shifted at 7k car weighed 3300lbs (67 chevelle) and was at the track probably three weekends a month. Took it apart and the cast crank was cracked 1" forward of the flywheel mount flange, so I replaced it with a callies stealth crank and put the motor into a 2300lb 67 camaro.

 

good luck making power with that opti-junk in front!

 

Yes optis are dyno proven to reduce horsepower by 27% ladies and gentlemen

 

Thats right, its the added rotational mass from the rotor!!

 

To the Original Poster: Just curious if you or your machine shop has experience and possitive results using the H-series bearing with a stock LT1 rod. What went into the decision to use the H-series?

I would have though the P-series to be the usual choice for it's "high" eccentricity and probable best bearing wear on the LT1 rod and rods like Eagle/SCAT I-beams. The H-series "medium" eccentricity being best for rods like a Compstar or Oliver or Lunati. (actually a stock rod seems like it would be best served with a "stock" bearing).

Not a lot of experience here behind my keyboard with tear-downs and inspections so looking for input from those with tons of that valuable info.

Karl Ellwein

 

Sorry my mistake, I did run H mains but P series rod bearings. Not too many LT1/LS1 motors come through my local machine shop back home. Mostly the normal stuff BBC, SBC, Mopars, BBF, SBF. I never asked their experiences with the powder metal rods and H bearings.