Installing Headers
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Teching In
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 16
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Installing Headers Well my Pacesetter Long tubes and y-pipe came yesterday and im very excited to say the least. So Sunday my buddy is coming over and we will go ahead and get them put on. Is there any tips any of you guys could give me just to let me know what im getting in to? Also what is this I hear about re-routing the spark plug wires when installing these, I just changed my entire optispark including the wires 500 miles ago, so that shouldnt be a concern to replace them. I bought the emission style headers as well Is there any difference in performance between emission headers and non emission?Any info would be great!
-Chris
-1995 Camaro Z28
A4 3:23
-Mods
K&N FIPK
Magnaflow Catback
-Chris
-1995 Camaro Z28
A4 3:23
-Mods
K&N FIPK
Magnaflow Catback
On The Tree
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 126
Likes: 0
From: Novi, MI
Performance is the same i think only difference is the emissions provisions.
When i did my pacesetters i had to unexpectedly replace the O^2 sensors because they would not come off the stock pipes so that like a $100 you might have to spend, I also replaced the plugs because well i accidentally broke one trying to get sunva bitchs out so another couple bucks.
And then I also was forced to buy a set of impact grade stripped bolt removers because rusted heat cycled bolts tend to strip, they did their job extremely well.
As far as getting the old exhaust out, lots of PB plaster and patience.
Routing the wires I just sorta zipped tied them away from the headers and made sure they would not move and thats it.
When i did my pacesetters i had to unexpectedly replace the O^2 sensors because they would not come off the stock pipes so that like a $100 you might have to spend, I also replaced the plugs because well i accidentally broke one trying to get sunva bitchs out so another couple bucks.
And then I also was forced to buy a set of impact grade stripped bolt removers because rusted heat cycled bolts tend to strip, they did their job extremely well.
As far as getting the old exhaust out, lots of PB plaster and patience.
Routing the wires I just sorta zipped tied them away from the headers and made sure they would not move and thats it.
11 Second Club
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 100
Likes: 0
From: Statesboro/McDonough GA
make sure to take the temp sensor out of the drivers side head....or just be careful, cuz it will most likely break. it's only 11-14 bucks, but its just one of those things
take off the steering linkage.
i heard you can get the passenger side in through the top if you remove the alternator and valve cover, we had a lift so we got htem both in through the bottom
the oil dipstick will need to be removed, as well as the starter.
i routed my wires in the stock location, and they aren't even close to the headers. the group of wiring on the passenger side (oil level sensor, etc) will need to be zip tied out of the way. if they are left to dangle, they will hit the header and burn. go buy those metal wire ties to do that, plastic zip ties will fail eventually.
that's about all i got
do some searches for people that did header installs. i know there are step by step guids with pics somewhere
take off the steering linkage.
i heard you can get the passenger side in through the top if you remove the alternator and valve cover, we had a lift so we got htem both in through the bottom
the oil dipstick will need to be removed, as well as the starter.
i routed my wires in the stock location, and they aren't even close to the headers. the group of wiring on the passenger side (oil level sensor, etc) will need to be zip tied out of the way. if they are left to dangle, they will hit the header and burn. go buy those metal wire ties to do that, plastic zip ties will fail eventually.
that's about all i got
do some searches for people that did header installs. i know there are step by step guids with pics somewhere
Good luck with the egr connection. Mine was located too far down the header leaving me the choice between running egr or a transmission dipstick. Needless to say I ended up taking the header back off to remove the egr tube. I also had to grind about 1/4 inch off of the bell housing for clearance, and put a small ding in another one of the tubes so it wouldn't hit the motor mount. All in all, I ended up pulling the passenger side header back off three times, so I could make modifications. Other than that it was cake.
Make sure u take both air and egr BEFOR you unblot the manifolds the passneger side is a BITCH i got mine in from the bottom and make sure u use solvent on all the bolts makes them alot easier to get out other then that it should be good i got mine in and i LOVe them can really feel them and hear them ....good luck
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you dont need to remove the starter or jack up one side of the motor, i was able to get both of mine in from the bottom with some maneuvering. And you should either get some heat shielding or some over the valve cover spark plug wires.
Originally Posted by transambandit
you dont need to remove the starter or jack up one side of the motor, i was able to get both of mine in from the bottom with some maneuvering. And you should either get some heat shielding or some over the valve cover spark plug wires.
Launching!
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 274
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From: nowhere
I JUST did a jet hot install.
I did 80 percent of it myself.
Driver side was easy.
Passenger side was a *****. taking it off was a PITA. MAKE SURE YOU TAKE THE EGR **** IN THE BACK LOOSE BEFORE YOU START UNBOLTING THE MANIFOLD!
after that is done, putting the passenger side header in I had to---- Remove starter, Jack up motor after undoing motor mount. than force it in there a bit.
I ran my plugs wires in the stock location. Good luck at getting your header bolts to start mine where ALWAYS a pain the *** to start. I got Stage 8 bolts.
I kept all the EGR **** on my car because I figured it would be a pain if I had to take it off. Anyways if you get jet hot make sure they ship you the right headers so you get the right AIR injection tube( I called jet hot and had HORRIBLE I mean HORRIBLE customer service, I will never deal with these guys agian. I got passed around on the phone like a free *****. And so much for them calling you back, I would not recommend anyone to them because I was so frustrated with them)
After you have the headers put back on make sure you take your time and dont break any thing.
my gay *** rubber AIR injection tube on the passnger side cracked and took a **** so now i have to order a new one.
Now the first time I started my car the headers smoked more than Paris Hiltons vag in one night in paris. This is normal( i freaked out). Also before you start make sure that there are NO wires touching the header. I started my car and i turned into a HAWK making sure nothing was touching and no wires where melting. I brought the car up to operating temp and continued to watch every thing on it. I had to move one wire that was almost melting(temp sensor wire). after it was fine idling I took it for a drive. I went about every 8th mile and stopped to look under the hood and check to see if there where any issues. Than on the last 2miles I did not check it at all I gave little more throttle and reved it a bit got it back home to check again to see if every thing was ok, it was but i had a exhuast leak and it turned out to be the AIR injection rubber tube.
It is pretty straight forward, I have not got out and got on my car yet so I don't know if there was any gain or not......
Best of luck if you have any questions I would be happy to answer
I did 80 percent of it myself.
Driver side was easy.
Passenger side was a *****. taking it off was a PITA. MAKE SURE YOU TAKE THE EGR **** IN THE BACK LOOSE BEFORE YOU START UNBOLTING THE MANIFOLD!
after that is done, putting the passenger side header in I had to---- Remove starter, Jack up motor after undoing motor mount. than force it in there a bit.
I ran my plugs wires in the stock location. Good luck at getting your header bolts to start mine where ALWAYS a pain the *** to start. I got Stage 8 bolts.
I kept all the EGR **** on my car because I figured it would be a pain if I had to take it off. Anyways if you get jet hot make sure they ship you the right headers so you get the right AIR injection tube( I called jet hot and had HORRIBLE I mean HORRIBLE customer service, I will never deal with these guys agian. I got passed around on the phone like a free *****. And so much for them calling you back, I would not recommend anyone to them because I was so frustrated with them)
After you have the headers put back on make sure you take your time and dont break any thing.
my gay *** rubber AIR injection tube on the passnger side cracked and took a **** so now i have to order a new one.
Now the first time I started my car the headers smoked more than Paris Hiltons vag in one night in paris. This is normal( i freaked out). Also before you start make sure that there are NO wires touching the header. I started my car and i turned into a HAWK making sure nothing was touching and no wires where melting. I brought the car up to operating temp and continued to watch every thing on it. I had to move one wire that was almost melting(temp sensor wire). after it was fine idling I took it for a drive. I went about every 8th mile and stopped to look under the hood and check to see if there where any issues. Than on the last 2miles I did not check it at all I gave little more throttle and reved it a bit got it back home to check again to see if every thing was ok, it was but i had a exhuast leak and it turned out to be the AIR injection rubber tube.
It is pretty straight forward, I have not got out and got on my car yet so I don't know if there was any gain or not......
Best of luck if you have any questions I would be happy to answer