best header gaskets?
best header gaskets? I'm in the process of buying my pacesetters, y pipe etc.... And I was wondering what are the best header gaskets to buy for the car. Do you guys recommed the stage 8 locks as well. Also will I need 02 extensions? I already got a tune from madz28 deleting the emissions and all and the guy said that I'll need to run the two front 02 sensors (he deleted the back two). Just wondering if I'll need the extentions.
One issue is this. LT1's Suck, Their intake and exhaust port arrangement is what creates the leaks. I have tried 4 different gaskets from FelPro, Percy, Flowtech and some company that did copper.
The one that leaked the least was Flowtech, you can get them outta jegs. But make sure you clean the surfaces properly, WD-40 and a scotch brite pad, or wirly bird works wonders, on the headers and cyl head surface. Clean afterwards with brake cleen. Tighten header bolts from the inside outward, then then heat cycle and retighten.
The one thing that I applaude with the LS1 is evenly spaced ports, I never have issues with factory MLS style gaskets, often you can even reuse factory with no issues.
The one that leaked the least was Flowtech, you can get them outta jegs. But make sure you clean the surfaces properly, WD-40 and a scotch brite pad, or wirly bird works wonders, on the headers and cyl head surface. Clean afterwards with brake cleen. Tighten header bolts from the inside outward, then then heat cycle and retighten.
The one thing that I applaude with the LS1 is evenly spaced ports, I never have issues with factory MLS style gaskets, often you can even reuse factory with no issues.
Originally Posted by BlackScreaminMachine
One issue is this. LT1's Suck, Their intake and exhaust port arrangement is what creates the leaks. I have tried 4 different gaskets from FelPro, Percy, Flowtech and some company that did copper.
The one that leaked the least was Flowtech, you can get them outta jegs. But make sure you clean the surfaces properly, WD-40 and a scotch brite pad, or wirly bird works wonders, on the headers and cyl head surface. Clean afterwards with brake cleen. Tighten header bolts from the inside outward, then then heat cycle and retighten.
The one thing that I applaude with the LS1 is evenly spaced ports, I never have issues with factory MLS style gaskets, often you can even reuse factory with no issues.
The one that leaked the least was Flowtech, you can get them outta jegs. But make sure you clean the surfaces properly, WD-40 and a scotch brite pad, or wirly bird works wonders, on the headers and cyl head surface. Clean afterwards with brake cleen. Tighten header bolts from the inside outward, then then heat cycle and retighten.
The one thing that I applaude with the LS1 is evenly spaced ports, I never have issues with factory MLS style gaskets, often you can even reuse factory with no issues.
wow another guy that's rippin on LT1s how original. Naw I was after the percys. They work fine, maybe that's what you should have bought in the first place. Thanks for the reminder on the percys 94blkbrd.
Originally Posted by Bones Z28
wow another guy that's rippin on LT1s how original. Naw I was after the percys. They work fine, maybe that's what you should have bought in the first place. Thanks for the reminder on the percys 94blkbrd.
But I come from a pretty extensive LT1 background.
Here is the Old car, so when I give advice I know what I am talkin about....
http://www.fbody.com/timeslips/member.cgi?id=560
LT1's port arrangement is what causes 90% of the leaks. So there.
they prolly leak because you prolly didnt retighten them. Earl's Pressure Master Gaskets ???. if you remember to retighten bolts after each heat cycle you should have no problem.
I have a missing header bolt, and my headers are still leak free. You sure leakage also doesnt have to do with cheap *** headers with paper thin flanges?
I have a missing header bolt, and my headers are still leak free. You sure leakage also doesnt have to do with cheap *** headers with paper thin flanges?
Trending Topics
I think if we read through here we can piece together the real truth.
The LT1 port arrangement is a little different than a gen 1 and using gen 1 gaskets certainly could contribute to problems, but far and away the biggest issue is header gaskets compress and therefore the bolts need frequent retightening for the first week or two. I actually try and let the car sit unstarted for 12 hours or so and retighten before ever even starting the car if possible, the gasket will compress slightly even before heat cycling.
The Earl's are good gaskets and I found them to need almost no retightening due to the solid aluminum frame, the inserts start thick and even as the compress retain tension and the bolts are clamping the header to the aluuminum frame of the gasket for almost no possibility of torque loss.
Thin warped flanges are all too common on cheap headers, for the b-body most of the good headers are expensive as hell but we get beefy flanges and thick tuning to show for it, keep up on the retightening for the first week or so and these flanges will seal. Took me a little while to learn this so I went through a few gaskets at first, now that I learned my lesson even relatively cheap gaskets are working just fine.
I actually go so far as to throw a wrench in the car and for a week after the install will check the bolts before leaving work, I am a blue collar guy so no worries about a little dirt.
The LT1 port arrangement is a little different than a gen 1 and using gen 1 gaskets certainly could contribute to problems, but far and away the biggest issue is header gaskets compress and therefore the bolts need frequent retightening for the first week or two. I actually try and let the car sit unstarted for 12 hours or so and retighten before ever even starting the car if possible, the gasket will compress slightly even before heat cycling.
The Earl's are good gaskets and I found them to need almost no retightening due to the solid aluminum frame, the inserts start thick and even as the compress retain tension and the bolts are clamping the header to the aluuminum frame of the gasket for almost no possibility of torque loss.
Thin warped flanges are all too common on cheap headers, for the b-body most of the good headers are expensive as hell but we get beefy flanges and thick tuning to show for it, keep up on the retightening for the first week or so and these flanges will seal. Took me a little while to learn this so I went through a few gaskets at first, now that I learned my lesson even relatively cheap gaskets are working just fine.
I actually go so far as to throw a wrench in the car and for a week after the install will check the bolts before leaving work, I am a blue collar guy so no worries about a little dirt.
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 10,023
Likes: 6
From: LT1 land...the "409" of the 90s!
We have had the very BEST luck with the SLP gaskets. BUT they are real spendy and harder to install. Next on the good list has been Fel-pros 
Both have show a "Set it and forget it" install
Both have show a "Set it and forget it" install
Originally Posted by TwoFast4Lv
We have had the very BEST luck with the SLP gaskets. BUT they are real spendy and harder to install. Next on the good list has been Fel-pros
Both have show a "Set it and forget it" install
Both have show a "Set it and forget it" install
Fel pros huh. They advertise them as an accessory for the pacesetters. Would you suggest these over percys? Idk I hear such great things about the percys that's why I ask.
Originally Posted by the_merv
Never had a problem with the Pace Setter Copper ones that I had when I had my LT1.
Just because you cant hear the leak, doesnt mean it isnt there. With the Flowtech, I heard no leaks, felt no signifigant amount of power loss. When the motor came out, I still saw spots where exhaust was leaking out. So take it for what you will, you could always verify with a straight edge and a feeler guage to see if the header warped. If it did, that sucks. But at the same time. Dont expect it to be a perm fix, it will leak again.
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 10,023
Likes: 6
From: LT1 land...the "409" of the 90s!
Originally Posted by BlackScreaminMachine
Just because you cant hear the leak, doesnt mean it isnt there. With the Flowtech, I heard no leaks, felt no signifigant amount of power loss. When the motor came out, I still saw spots where exhaust was leaking out. So take it for what you will, you could always verify with a straight edge and a feeler guage to see if the header warped. If it did, that sucks. But at the same time. Dont expect it to be a perm fix, it will leak again.
I am using GM OEM metal gaskets, I know several LS1'S AND LT1'S that have full exhaust and that are using these gaskets without having any problems at all. You wil need 02 extensions I called pacesetter and the ones that they give for the ls1's are 22in in length, I got mine off ebay for 50 dollars, the username on ebay is HBHRACING and they are very good quailty hopefully this answers all your questions OP. These o2 extensions are 24in in length. Later Devin
I have heard of using the stock MLS gaskets and plan to get a set next time I order from my GM parts guy, I know they are reasonably inexpensive and worth a shot but just have not tried them yet.
I think there are a lot of options that will work, they just have to first be the right ones and Gen 1 ports are the wrong height, next the header has to be straight, and then if the gasket is such that it will compress then they need retightening.
I will say that with the stockers I doubt they would need retightening and I bet the Earl's would have been fine had I not rechecked them.
With a heavily modified car though I don't see checking header bolt torque a few times after install as a noteworthy issue. If you do that much wrenching checking 12 bolts is a 2-3 minute deal at most.
I think there are a lot of options that will work, they just have to first be the right ones and Gen 1 ports are the wrong height, next the header has to be straight, and then if the gasket is such that it will compress then they need retightening.
I will say that with the stockers I doubt they would need retightening and I bet the Earl's would have been fine had I not rechecked them.
With a heavily modified car though I don't see checking header bolt torque a few times after install as a noteworthy issue. If you do that much wrenching checking 12 bolts is a 2-3 minute deal at most.
Originally Posted by BlackScreaminMachine
Just because you cant hear the leak, doesnt mean it isnt there. With the Flowtech, I heard no leaks, felt no signifigant amount of power loss. When the motor came out, I still saw spots where exhaust was leaking out. So take it for what you will, you could always verify with a straight edge and a feeler guage to see if the header warped. If it did, that sucks. But at the same time. Dont expect it to be a perm fix, it will leak again.