How hard is the optispark to fix? I found a 97 Trans Am for sale, it fully cammed and upgraded, and has only been to the track once. It ran a 12.2 with a shitty 2.0 60ft... The guy originally wanted 7200obo for the car. There's 25k on the rebuilt motor, and 12k on the rebuilt trans. The guy dropped the price down to 5g because the optispark went out and he doesn't want to fix it. Everything else checks out on the car, its just the optispark. Is the car worth picking up for only 5g, or is the opti really that much of a PITA to replace?

 

How many cuss words do you know? You'll probably learn a few more when you replace an opti.

Naah, it's not that bad. Just takes time. Under $300 for the part, probably replace the wiring harness connector at the same time, and then a few misc pieces like water pump gasket. Is it worth the price drop? I'd say so.

Now, changing wires on the other hand... have you ever watched Animal Cops on Animal Planet? The one where they had to remove 80+ wild cats from a house? That's kinda like changing plug wires on an LT1...

 

here's the car details directly from the ad...
Update!!! Car needs new opti spark (the distributor). Engine cranks but there is no spark, there is power running to the coil (coil is new), opti spark, and computer, so it is almost certainly the opti. This is a great drop in price for someone who is willing to do the work themselves. Price is dropped $2500, from $7500 to $5000. There is nothing wrong with the engine, or starter both have been checked already. 1997 Trans Am Red on dark gray interior. Car body has 136,000 miles on it. The engine was rebuilt around 25,000 miles ago, transmission about 15,000 miles ago and was built to handle the extra power. LT1 heads are ported and milled, Comp XE 224/230 cam, 1.6 RR, Comp lifters, springs, and pushrods, Hooker LT headers, true dual exhaust w/ x pipe and bullet mufflers, CSI electric water pump, Yank 3600 stall, BMR transmission cooler, SLP cold air intake, throttle body air foil, tuned by PCMFORLESS, Spoon Lower control arms, BMR STB, Alpine CDA-9831, interior has painted and clear coated pieces, white faced gauges, dual gauge pod, exterior black overlay decals, and a CE rear filler piece. Along with more smaller mods. Car runs great and is in great shape it would be an awesome weekend or track car for someone, I just don't have time for a toy anymore. 1/4 time 12.2 at 112 on 2.0 60ft, 60ft time and 1/4 time should both come down on slicks or et streets. Please contact me if you have any questions.

 

I would buy a running car, people like to blanket other problems as optis a lot. LT1s are a dime a dozen, you can find a clean running one for 5ish if you look.

 

If it's just the Opti and has a cam swap, and you do decide to jump on it, when you have the Opti off check the lentgh of the dowl pin on the cam and just double check it's not too long...think it's supposed to be around 1/4" with the timing gear on, I think but im sure someone else could tell you the correct number

 

It's not that hard if you have headers, another good reason to get some.

 

With LTs, driver side is a breaze, its the passenger side that sucks.

 

I agree. I've kept all my A/C and air pump stuff on the car, so I still have all that crap all over the engine bay. It's easier come inspection time, but it's a pain to work around. #2 is a bitch in my car.

 

I still have all my air/egr, my car still has to pass the sniffer, dont feel like messing with buying stickers for it.

 

Never thought of that before...damn good point.

 

yea, with my FLP LTs the only hard plugs to get to are 7, 2, and 8

but before with the manifolds I would have to take them off completely

 

yeah, I have no A/C AIR or EGR, guess that's why it seems easy to me

 

No way I would buy a car I can not drive and see run. That motor could be gone for all you know. But if it was just the opti, it is a good deal. But I would back away.