Le 1.5 Numbers
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From: POULSBO WA.
Le 1.5 Numbers I am told that the LE 1.5 ( LE2 heads and LE1 cam) would make good usable power without the need for a stahl. Does anyone have any dyno numbers or track times for this combo? Or can somebody est. power or quarter with this setup. thanks.
Originally Posted by infinitebird
That's something that should be done before heads/cam.
If anything picking the converter after the dyno is ideal, since it can tell you where you stand. I have been recently working with a 01 T/A with a LS2 402, all motor, th400 with a 5.5k stall, 3400 pounds all motor setup. You really get to learn what a converter can do given the power the car makes, its weight, and a whole lot of other considerations. The converter is soooo lose in the car that with it making 475 rwhp, that if it actually hooked, it would be put on the bumper, so your going to end up dialing the converter back.
Reason why I mention this, is this is an extreme example where just picking a random # doesnt always yield best results. The aftformentioned car is a trailered track car, this is a street car. If to pick a random #, look at my graph. I would feel confident in a 3000-3500 stall.
I had a cam that Bret personally stated to be a 1.5 cam, in my 383. When dyno tuned, I got the converter to lock so we got some down low pulls.
Can you tell how much stall I needed?? (befpre was a unlocked LT4 hotcam)
Originally Posted by BlackScreaminMachine
A Gear/COnverter selection should be done along side the cam swap or any major change in the engine or weight dept.
If anything picking the converter after the dyno is ideal, since it can tell you where you stand. I have been recently working with a 01 T/A with a LS2 402, all motor, th400 with a 5.5k stall, 3400 pounds all motor setup. You really get to learn what a converter can do given the power the car makes, its weight, and a whole lot of other considerations. The converter is soooo lose in the car that with it making 475 rwhp, that if it actually hooked, it would be put on the bumper, so your going to end up dialing the converter back.
If anything picking the converter after the dyno is ideal, since it can tell you where you stand. I have been recently working with a 01 T/A with a LS2 402, all motor, th400 with a 5.5k stall, 3400 pounds all motor setup. You really get to learn what a converter can do given the power the car makes, its weight, and a whole lot of other considerations. The converter is soooo lose in the car that with it making 475 rwhp, that if it actually hooked, it would be put on the bumper, so your going to end up dialing the converter back.
And a lot of people do the stall before motor work. I could see how having the dyno sheet might be a better way though, since the goal is to pick it based on the peak torque rpm.
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If you get a small cam, nothing should be wrong with keeping the stock stall. There are cams that make power from 1500-5800, which would be fine on a stock stall. If it's a daily driver and you don't want a stall, you just need a smaller cam. It's still realistic to have a 380Rwhp car without a stall and a good setup...
Thread Starter
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From: POULSBO WA.
My main sticking point with a stahl is...with the stock 3.23 gears I turn 1750 rpm at 60 mph, if I were to put a 2800 to 3200 in wouldn't I have to worry about heat build up and frying the trans...even with 3.42 or 3.73 (can't decide) wouldn't there be a problem with the converter being fully engaged, or do I not understand the concept. thanks.
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the higher stall will generate more heat, but a good trans cooler will take care of it
the newer lockup converters work so much better (I had problems with a TPI car that would lock and unlock unless you were speeding and I'd never do that hehe)
a tuner can even force the lockup to occur at any speed you desire
the newer lockup converters work so much better (I had problems with a TPI car that would lock and unlock unless you were speeding and I'd never do that hehe)
a tuner can even force the lockup to occur at any speed you desire
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Originally Posted by FAD2BLK93
My main sticking point with a stahl is...with the stock 3.23 gears I turn 1750 rpm at 60 mph, if I were to put a 2800 to 3200 in wouldn't I have to worry about heat build up and frying the trans...even with 3.42 or 3.73 (can't decide) wouldn't there be a problem with the converter being fully engaged, or do I not understand the concept. thanks.
but when cruising down the highway at 60 mph the converter should be locked so you wouldn't have to worry about burning anything up cruising down the highway
Its a combo that has to work together...Getting a converter that stalls 500-900 rpm below the torque peak of the motor will be ideal...The ideal route is to match the cam/converter/gears...Most converters now are very efficient and will work great in DD aplications...You'd never know that I run a Vig 3600 if you drove my car....until you nailed it...
--Alan
--Alan
