I hate my crank hub...
you need a 7/16" threaded rod, Large washers, I used a stepped proceedure, to start small and work up to the hub, and 2 nuts to thread on.
Once the hub is at least on the crank snout, sink the rod down to the crank bottom, put the washers on, keep them even and level, almost like a pyramid, then a nut to slowly draw the hub on the crank, use oil to help.
I got the rod at a speciality place, it only needs to be 6" max and fine thread of course.
Once the hub is at least on the crank snout, sink the rod down to the crank bottom, put the washers on, keep them even and level, almost like a pyramid, then a nut to slowly draw the hub on the crank, use oil to help.
I got the rod at a speciality place, it only needs to be 6" max and fine thread of course.
On The Tree
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 126
Likes: 0
From: Novi, MI
Originally Posted by BlackScreaminMachine
you need a 7/16" threaded rod, Large washers, I used a stepped proceedure, to start small and work up to the hub, and 2 nuts to thread on.
Once the hub is at least on the crank snout, sink the rod down to the crank bottom, put the washers on, keep them even and level, almost like a pyramid, then a nut to slowly draw the hub on the crank, use oil to help.
I got the rod at a speciality place, it only needs to be 6" max and fine thread of course.
Once the hub is at least on the crank snout, sink the rod down to the crank bottom, put the washers on, keep them even and level, almost like a pyramid, then a nut to slowly draw the hub on the crank, use oil to help.
I got the rod at a speciality place, it only needs to be 6" max and fine thread of course.
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Originally Posted by BlackScreaminMachine
you need a 7/16" threaded rod, Large washers, I used a stepped proceedure, to start small and work up to the hub, and 2 nuts to thread on.
Once the hub is at least on the crank snout, sink the rod down to the crank bottom, put the washers on, keep them even and level, almost like a pyramid, then a nut to slowly draw the hub on the crank, use oil to help.
I got the rod at a speciality place, it only needs to be 6" max and fine thread of course.
Once the hub is at least on the crank snout, sink the rod down to the crank bottom, put the washers on, keep them even and level, almost like a pyramid, then a nut to slowly draw the hub on the crank, use oil to help.
I got the rod at a speciality place, it only needs to be 6" max and fine thread of course.
Do NOT use a mallet for this or the front main bearing may get damaged.
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Originally Posted by BlackScreaminMachine
you need a 7/16" threaded rod, Large washers, I used a stepped proceedure, to start small and work up to the hub, and 2 nuts to thread on.
Once the hub is at least on the crank snout, sink the rod down to the crank bottom, put the washers on, keep them even and level, almost like a pyramid, then a nut to slowly draw the hub on the crank, use oil to help.
I got the rod at a speciality place, it only needs to be 6" max and fine thread of course.
Once the hub is at least on the crank snout, sink the rod down to the crank bottom, put the washers on, keep them even and level, almost like a pyramid, then a nut to slowly draw the hub on the crank, use oil to help.
I got the rod at a speciality place, it only needs to be 6" max and fine thread of course.
I guess i don understand this.....I've got the hub about 3/4 of the way on. I was using a rubber mallet and i had some oil on it ,it's just taking forever.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 697
Likes: 0
From: Evansville, IN
You dont beat the hub on, you push it on with a nut on a threaded rod. You use the treaded rod as a stud in the crank. Then use the nut and spacer to push or pull, however you look at, the hub on the crank. Dont use the stock bolt or you'll damage the crank threads. I would not beat it on either. Get the correct tools.
Like this:
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...51803_-1_10783
Like this:
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...51803_-1_10783
think of its like this, as opposed to the bolt that holds the the hub in place, the rod acts like a post, fully supported and using all the crank threads. the washers go over the opening of the hub and the nut is used to draw it on.
Originally Posted by BlackScreaminMachine
think of its like this, as opposed to the bolt that holds the the hub in place, the rod acts like a post, fully supported and using all the crank threads. the washers go over the opening of the hub and the nut is used to draw it on.
I SEE SAYS THE BLIND MAN
