Got damned this overheating lt1
07-27-2007, 11:35 PM
#41
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Originally Posted by 67SS&99SS
That_guy, I think you need a new waterpump. I've gone through the cooling nightmare with my uncle's LT1. I replaced all of the fan relays first, that did nothing. I thought the car may have been leaking coolant, so I checked all the hoses, and one of them had a crack in it. A few minutes later, it toasted the opti. Since I haven't had much experience with LT1s, I let my mechanic put a new opti on and told him about the issue with it running hot. He checked the waterpump out and it had took a complete dump. After putting that on, the car runs around 180-185* all day long. 
How many miles are on your car? My uncle's had around 111,000 on it the waterpump was replaced.
How many miles are on your car? My uncle's had around 111,000 on it the waterpump was replaced.
07-28-2007, 09:31 AM
#42
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Originally Posted by That_guy
hahahaha dont laugh , rite now im at 262,xxx ish miles never had the water pump replaced.
07-28-2007, 03:38 PM
#44
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You have receipts for a quarter million miles from how many owners? I'm not saying you're lying, just that is there any way of knowing you're on the factory pump?
07-28-2007, 05:49 PM
#46
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i recently bought my 97 Z28 and when i first got it i thought it overheated, but the stock fans are only programmed to come on at around 230 unless the A/C is on but mine never is because it doesnt work. so for any new LT1 owners these cars run hot in traffic unless you have the A/C on. IMO the whole idea with a 160 stat is not gonna fix any overheating at all but simply as said before keep the car a little cooler if everything else is good. if you think about it all a stat does is allow coolant to flow. so say your fans are not working and you put a 160 stat in. all you are doing is allowing hot coolant to start flowing sooner in the engine no matter when the stat opens it wont matter if the fans are not blowing cold air across the radiator to cool this coolant. symptoms of faulty fans will be car overheating in stop and go or low speeds, because if the car is moving above aprx. 35 mph more air is flowing than the fans can flow. usually because of this most fans are programmed to shut off once the pcm sees a speed signal above aprx. 35 mph. so if you hard wire the fans to run all the time you are shortening the life of the fans. 
these are just some of the things i have learned about the cooling system on these cars hopefully it will help some of you. i may have some of my facts wrong so feel free to let me know if something i posted is incorrect as i am always learning new things about these cars.
just to clarify i still run the stock 180 stat i see no need for a 160 and i run a SLP manual fan switch so if i want to keep the temp around 180 in traffic i can, but i turn it off immeadiately as soon as i get up to speed.
these are just some of the things i have learned about the cooling system on these cars hopefully it will help some of you. i may have some of my facts wrong so feel free to let me know if something i posted is incorrect as i am always learning new things about these cars.
just to clarify i still run the stock 180 stat i see no need for a 160 and i run a SLP manual fan switch so if i want to keep the temp around 180 in traffic i can, but i turn it off immeadiately as soon as i get up to speed.
07-29-2007, 01:18 AM
#47
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i do need a fanswitch. the ac was on when it overheated. but we checked the fans and they worked . imma get a radiator flush tomorrow that may help abit
07-29-2007, 04:11 PM
#48
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Damnit guys it happend again lol this time at the bank. i was goin to get a tune up today. good thing i was parked and get this 5min before it was doing great but when i started it again it happend. The fans was working before maybe it is the waterpump
07-29-2007, 04:17 PM
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Check to see if you're getting any codes. The fans are on the same circuit as a bunch of other things. I had an O2 sensor shorting out which caused my fans not to come on either. The Scanmaster is worth its weight in gold.
07-29-2007, 06:14 PM
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Originally Posted by That_guy
o really learned somethin new today. well i think a ewp is in order. with a 160tstat.
07-29-2007, 06:34 PM
#54
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well i think it is broken. cause this is the 2nd time this happend this week so it must be the water pump cause we replaced the thermostat.
what do you think it could be
what do you think it could be
07-29-2007, 06:46 PM
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Make sure the hoses on the back of the radiator neck are not on backwards. The top one should go to the overflow and the bottom one comes from the pump.
07-29-2007, 06:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Matts94Z28
Make sure the hoses on the back of the radiator neck are not on backwards. The top one should go to the overflow and the bottom one comes from the pump.
07-29-2007, 06:50 PM
#58
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Thats what was wrong with mine. I did a pressure test and it all went into the overflow, That could be your boiling sound right there. I hope this helps!
07-29-2007, 06:50 PM
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1. Fans again but they were working earlier
2.water pump does have 260,000 miles on it
3.Radiator needs a flush if that helps.
And the hoses are just fine. But that idea will be tested out.
2.water pump does have 260,000 miles on it
3.Radiator needs a flush if that helps.
And the hoses are just fine. But that idea will be tested out.
07-29-2007, 06:52 PM
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If your radiator is the original, then the cores could have gone bad in it as well. You can go with the ewp if you want, but get the radiator checked out at the same time.