Oil cooler?
08-03-2007, 03:19 PM
#21
RMI-25 is a good cooling system additive that stays in and cleans things. Have sucessfully revived a clogged radiator with it myself. I think it would be of at least some help too you in making sure the radiator is and stays clean.
Far as running a small heat exchanger off the WP too oil cooler coolant port, seems exessively complicated but it should work.
Think how small a heater core is and I am sure a lot of use have used the old crank the heat in the car too cool an overheating engine trick before. Well maybe just us old guys who drove vehicles with belt driven fans and other such antiquated technology.
The stock mechanical pump moves A LOT of water, if cooling is an issue I think it a very good choice unless you are spinning it very high and it is cavitating, I do not know at what point that becomes an issue but lowest I have heard discussion of it being a problem is 6500, guessing you spend very little time above that.
Far as running a small heat exchanger off the WP too oil cooler coolant port, seems exessively complicated but it should work.
Think how small a heater core is and I am sure a lot of use have used the old crank the heat in the car too cool an overheating engine trick before. Well maybe just us old guys who drove vehicles with belt driven fans and other such antiquated technology.
The stock mechanical pump moves A LOT of water, if cooling is an issue I think it a very good choice unless you are spinning it very high and it is cavitating, I do not know at what point that becomes an issue but lowest I have heard discussion of it being a problem is 6500, guessing you spend very little time above that.
08-03-2007, 03:53 PM
#23
A stock waterpump absolutely will move more water at least at moderate to higher rpms where it is critical.
The electrics are rated with zero restriction by contrast the paper SAE published on the LT1 cooling system says the LT1 pump moves 66gmp at 6000rpms as installed on the engine. Being just an impeller, restriction will have a BIG impact on flow. Think of it like a fan, you restrct a fan's inlet or outlet and flow drops.
A pump like an oilpump will move the same volume reguardless of restriction so this does not apply to all kinds of pumps, but does apply to automotive water pumps.
At low speeds the mechanical will move less water but a few of the brighter guys who have done the electric pumps have reported increased cruise temps which would indicate that the point at which the mechanical outflows the restricted electric is below a normal cruise rpm.
The electrics are rated with zero restriction by contrast the paper SAE published on the LT1 cooling system says the LT1 pump moves 66gmp at 6000rpms as installed on the engine. Being just an impeller, restriction will have a BIG impact on flow. Think of it like a fan, you restrct a fan's inlet or outlet and flow drops.
A pump like an oilpump will move the same volume reguardless of restriction so this does not apply to all kinds of pumps, but does apply to automotive water pumps.
At low speeds the mechanical will move less water but a few of the brighter guys who have done the electric pumps have reported increased cruise temps which would indicate that the point at which the mechanical outflows the restricted electric is below a normal cruise rpm.
08-03-2007, 04:18 PM
#24
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Originally Posted by speed_demon24
Not true, when my car was ~375rwhp it would overheat after 2 laps on the track....
08-03-2007, 11:01 PM
#25
Originally Posted by dhdenney
You must have had a problem then.
my best run of 11.95 was less than 5 minutes after a 11.96 run, granted not exactly the same car but the radiator in my car is one out of an old cop car, not a performance unit and certainly not new.
One overlooked piece of the cooling system is the air dam, they really are important, make sure they are there and that they are not crack or something that would allow them to fold under at speed.
