LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Last minute help before I put it together!

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Old Aug 1, 2007 | 09:48 PM
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Default Last minute help before I put it together!

Alright so my opti went out almost 2 weeks ago and I just came up with the money to buy everything I wanted. (Thanks again to HP Motorsports and Thunder) I bought NGK plugs, Taylor OTVC wires, MSD coil, and MSD opti. Everything has arrived and is waiting for me to put back on but I want some last minute help before I do. I just want some things that are often overlooked. BTW this is my 1st time replacing this. Last time I paid my mechanic.

I have already changed plugs and wires. The opti is waiting to be put on until I get the new gasket from MSD to replace the O-ring that has proved troublesome for some. I already know how to line up the splines and everything, I've practiced with the old opti to get the feeling. I have used blue threadlocker on the rotor screws in the opti and I have thread sealant for the waterpump bolts. The coil is already mounted but I read about having to put some heat grease or something under the ICM? Do I have to take it back apart and do that? The ICM tested good at Autozone.

Is there anything else I need to be aware of or need to buy? I'm using the write up in LS1 Wiki and I know it is forgetting some things since it doesn't mention anything about threadlocker or thread sealant.

I'll also be changing my coolant since when I drained it it looked brown and thick! Any tips or writeups for this? Should I use dex cool or green stuff? Do I need any of those additives for the flush or will just plain water do? Distilled water or tap water?
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Old Aug 1, 2007 | 10:06 PM
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The heat grease is so the ICM doesn't get too hot on the head. I used some flat washers to create an air space behind it to prevent it from getting hot and messing up. On the radiator, I'd take it out and stick a water hose in it and kinda get it cleaned out a little. You may also have to pull the knock sensor on the pass side and the little allen plug on the driver to get all the water out of the jackets. I personally prefer the green coolant cuz I have read mixed reviews on the Dex cool. Be sure you have a 50/50 mix and I think you're supposed to use distilled water but IMHO, that only matters if you're using straight water. The coolant seems to prevent tap water from forming deposits.
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Old Aug 2, 2007 | 01:57 PM
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Any tips for assembling the opti boots to the wires? The wire is 8mm and the boot seems like its 2mm! I have never had to assemble wires before so any crimping advice and what slots to use on the hand crimper will help too because I'm clueless.
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Old Aug 2, 2007 | 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by porksoda
Any tips for assembling the opti boots to the wires? The wire is 8mm and the boot seems like its 2mm! I have never had to assemble wires before so any crimping advice and what slots to use on the hand crimper will help too because I'm clueless.
i had the same problem with the taylor wires.

i used dawn soap and they slid right in.
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Old Aug 2, 2007 | 05:17 PM
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I bought my 95 with a oreilly opti on it, had some coolant get on it, should i just warranty it or buy a better one? Coolant was due to a busted hose.
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Old Aug 2, 2007 | 05:33 PM
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its not bad man... everyone makes it sound like its an Opti-Monster. just be sure its all the way seated before you start putting things back together. IMO i dont use the heat grease, the module is mounted to an aluminum heat sink, its designed to remove heat. And i also dont threadlock any of the screws. (not that it can hurt, but i choose not to) and for the coolant, i only use green in lt1's. It is was came in it, therefore thats what i use. good luck
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Old Aug 2, 2007 | 05:59 PM
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Make sure you get the opti lined up, i took mine apart 3 times and still was a hair off, i had to take it to a performance shop and they took it apart and lined it up and it runs great now.
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Old Aug 2, 2007 | 08:59 PM
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Originally Posted by porksoda
Any tips for assembling the opti boots to the wires? The wire is 8mm and the boot seems like its 2mm! I have never had to assemble wires before so any crimping advice and what slots to use on the hand crimper will help too because I'm clueless.
Yeah putting the boots on a real bitch. I'd say that Dawn soap would help a lot.
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Old Aug 2, 2007 | 09:02 PM
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since you have your opti off, put the wires back on before you put the crank pulley back on since it gives you a ton of clearance on the pass side.
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Old Aug 2, 2007 | 09:07 PM
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The job isn't that hard at all! Like I said this is my 1st time doing this and it wasn't near as hard as people make it out to be. I also have the natural ability to turn a wrench though! It took me about an hour and a half to pull everything off including the opti, and an hour to change plugs and wires. I imagine it will take another hour to put everything back together. Not hard at all. Assembling the plug wires however will take forever! Like I said they are on the sparkplugs and routed through the looms but I still have to cut, crimp, and put on boots.
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Old Aug 5, 2007 | 09:28 PM
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Alright MSD is sending me another gasket since the other one never came in! It will be here on Wednesday and I have few questions before then.

1.When I put the water pump back on do I have to smear RTV on the gaskets or does it go on dry?

2.Since I'm using thread sealant on the bolts to the waterpump do I have to wait for it to dry before I refill with coolant?

3.What is the best way to flush and refill after I get it all together? The only drains I HAVEN'T pulled are the 2 on the block.

4.Do I need to use those flush additives when I flush the coolant?
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Old Aug 6, 2007 | 05:01 PM
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help!
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Old Aug 7, 2007 | 09:03 PM
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So let me get this correct before Wednesday. This is what I have gotten from you guys so far and what I plan on doing from the info given. These steps will be done after I install the opti, waterpump, and intake ducting.

1) Pull both plugs from bottom of block
2) Refill radiator with distilled water and flush additive
3) Watch fluid with the radiator cap open until thermostat opens and I get movement from the water
4) Continue filling until it doesn't take anymore water
5) Pull drain from bottom of radiator
6) Repeat steps 2-5 until all I get is clear water from draining
7) Fill radiator with 100% green stuff and 50/50 mix in the tank
8) Open bleeder screws and radiator cap and run till hot again. Coolant should spurt from bleeder screws telling me to close them right?

Does this sound good? Also will this get me close to the 50/50 mix I'm supposed to have? Please if this is wrong do a quick write up for me!
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Old Aug 7, 2007 | 09:10 PM
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Sounds good. Go for it.
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