How about Crane's Gold RR ive heard soo many people like running them?

 

IMO aluminum RRs do not belong on a daily driver, only on a race car.

Buy some steel ones, its a long explanation as to why I prefer the steel, but a short version would be fatigue or endurance limit of the material and I have seen quite a few Aluminum (including the gold race) crack on the bottom of the fulcrum.

Friends dont let friends use aluminum RRs haha

 

Not to mention that the Comp pro mags weigh less than the aluminum ones. I'm hoping that my SA pro mags will be alright, guess I will discuss that with whoever I have cut the custom cam I will want, if I will need NSA or not.

 

I run SA Crane Gold Race 1.6rrs without any problems, with a fairly decent lift cam, a custom grind similar to the 306 but with more intake lift and less duration. It is also a daily driver.

I do not need to spin past 6100 though, but they have held up fine to tons of abuse. I wouldnt trust the "budget" proform/summit aluminum rockers, but crane pieces are top notch.

 

So i guess if i want to spin past 6000 i should go with NSA pro mag.?

 

I bet money that those cheap aluminum ones you refer to are made by crane by use of private labeling

 

With the right springs, proper pushrods, CC NSA promags and good guide plates and you should have years of trouble free operation.


Guide plates are easy to install.


So are the rockers




Best thing is they fit under my stock valve covers with a .6xx lift cam.

 

I use roller tip rockers, i would use aluminom full rollers if i wanted to, but i rag the hell outta mine and as said above i dont want a roller cracking out and about driving.

 

I do not think so, I've had proforms and they are not only a different shape where the fulcrum turns into the tip, but the roller tip has much more side to side play in it then the cranes do.

When a lifter came apart, one of the proforms were toasted - tip filed down from the valve stem. That one was not the fault of the rocker, but when I took em all out out a few random ones had the metal showing right where the arm connects to the body from where they moved a bit and barely rubbed the springs.

 

What are those valve springs you're using??

 

I'm starting to see why Captainofiron is touting the steel. I can see what you mean too.

 

i had ran the crane gold RR's and they were NSA, they were rated as being too heavy of a rocker and mess with the valve train geometry. I converted to harland sharp NSA RR's, they seem to be a very solid buy, and you arent paying ridiculous prices for the name.

 

How much are they??& do i have to use guide plates with them??
I dont think you have them at LS1Speed.