self alingning vs non-self alingning RR
Buy some steel ones, its a long explanation as to why I prefer the steel, but a short version would be fatigue or endurance limit of the material and I have seen quite a few Aluminum (including the gold race) crack on the bottom of the fulcrum.
Friends dont let friends use aluminum RRs haha
I do not need to spin past 6100 though, but they have held up fine to tons of abuse. I wouldnt trust the "budget" proform/summit aluminum rockers, but crane pieces are top notch.
I do not need to spin past 6100 though, but they have held up fine to tons of abuse. I wouldnt trust the "budget" proform/summit aluminum rockers, but crane pieces are top notch.
Guide plates are easy to install.

So are the rockers

Best thing is they fit under my stock valve covers with a .6xx lift cam.
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When a lifter came apart, one of the proforms were toasted - tip filed down from the valve stem. That one was not the fault of the rocker, but when I took em all out out a few random ones had the metal showing right where the arm connects to the body from where they moved a bit and barely rubbed the springs.
Last edited by Puck; Aug 11, 2007 at 10:23 AM.
Guide plates are easy to install.

So are the rockers

Best thing is they fit under my stock valve covers with a .6xx lift cam.

When a lifter came apart, one of the proforms were toasted - tip filed down from the valve stem. That one was not the fault of the rocker, but when I took em all out out a few random ones had the metal showing right where the arm connects to the body from where they moved a bit and barely rubbed the springs.
i had ran the crane gold RR's and they were NSA, they were rated as being too heavy of a rocker and mess with the valve train geometry. I converted to harland sharp NSA RR's, they seem to be a very solid buy, and you arent paying ridiculous prices for the name.
I dont think you have them at LS1Speed.



