BsGreenZ

I'm starting to build a 383 LT1 and having a hard time finding the crank that i need... can any one help... dont have a **** load of money...

aboatguy

If you're trying to find out what you need, the answer is a SBC 3.75" stroke one piece rear main seal crank.


Now if you're trying to find a used one with this thread here's a bump.




If I was going the stroker route, the lowest end rotating assembly I'd use is the Calles Compstar. But thats just me.


My advice is if don't have enough for the price of a new Chinese cast crank, postpone your build until you save some more cash.
Builds always cost 1.5 to 2 times what you think they will.


Good luck.

Mike

BsGreenZ

thanks... thats what i needed...

aboatguy

You still have a couple of decisions
stock balance (internal front and external rear)


or internal balance.

....and cast or forged

Good luck.

Mike

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

A $180 cast Scat crank will work, but frankly is a step down in quality from a stocker.

What are you trying to do, if adding cubes to go faster on a budget then you are barking up the wrong tree, spend the money on the heads.

If the motor is blown consider a junkyard shortblock, you have a topend, if you look at b-bodies you can usually get those motors cheaper and in better condition and the shortblock is identical to the f-body, other than they will have a vented opti even the 94s.

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (25)

<===has a scat 9000, i am making over 500 ftlbs tq in mt 89 RS @ the flywheel and it is fine. Any more than 500HP go with forged though, that is just how it is.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

Be careful when comparing crankshafdt HP numbers too the more commonly quoted RWHP numbers around here. A "reputable" vendor has a 520fwhp rated motor known to not even come close too 400rwhp, the losses of installing accessories, intake, exhaust and a drivetrain behind a motor are MUCH higher than most realize.

There are a lot of NA stoc k bottom LT1s out there over 500fwhp and touching 500fwtq, just few folks test LT1s on an engine stand dyno so you don't see the graph.

BsGreenZ

okso what should i do than.... I want to go 383 but at the same time im looking to be around 400 hp at the rear wheel and then put a 100 shot on it.. should i just go 355 or stay 350... Whats the highest hp rating you can get with stock heads that have been milled out and bigger valves put in??

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

Hitting your goal with a 355 is definetely possible, if you get a good company to work the stock heads, Advanced Induction would be my recommendation, my car is making about the NA rwhp you want, and they came out with a better head for the same price since I bought.

Most LT1 head porters just do a mild valve size upgrade, stock is 1.94/1.50, most LT1 ported heads get 2.00/1.56 these fit the stock seats which keeps cost down and they work very well. When most people talk about big valves they want 2.02/1.6, don't waste your money on that.

If you can afford a forged crank in a stroker than go ahead and do the stroker, if the cost of a forged crank is out of the question then reuse the stock crank and stay 355.

BsGreenZ

ok so how much power can a stock crank handle if i do forged rods and some nice .30 pistons.... the rods i'm looking at say they can handle 600 hp to the fly wheel which would be enough to get to my goal... if its not worth going 383 except if i buy a forged crank i would rather go 355 and put a 100 shot on it...

TAEnvy

iTrader: (2)

Im curious about this to.

What is a stock crank could to if you go with good forged rods (can you go 6" or do you need a 3.75 crank to do that) and some good forged pistons?

BsGreenZ

i found out today from the machine shop that the stock crank can handle about 500 and yes you can use a 6.0 rod you just have to set the rod further in the piston...