lookin4aTA

Ok, I changed my right front O2 today and now something is really fucked up. Car idles at maybe 800rpm and when you give it gas, it does nothing until past half throttle. Plus when it is at cruising rpm, the whole car shakes and feels like the motor wants to fall out. The exhaust smell is almost overwhelming as well. Is it just running ungodly rich/lean or could it be more serious. Oh, and it runs just fine when the SES light is on.

hyperzone

What brand O2? Heated O2 or not? Get it scanned and find out what code(s) its putting up. I'm not a guru here but, that info will help with any of us figuring it out.

lookin4aTA

I think it is a Bosch. Whatever they sell at autozone, don't have the box with me at the moment. I want to get it scanned but won't be able to until tuesday next week.

Formula350

iTrader: (3)

Everyone says the Bosch suck, but for me which is a single wire, $18/ea I just couldn't pass up. Delco is what everyone here swears by for the O2s.

Make sure the wire/s didn't melt on the exhaust, or it's plugged in right.

infinitebird

iTrader: (11)

Swap it out for a delco and see if the problem goes away.

Most people that get the autozone/bosch o2s end up doing that because of various problems they usually exhibit.

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (25)

Damn, that sucks, i guess you can make sure it has a good connection too.

lookin4aTA

well, I was able to get it scanned today and the codes were 43-Knock sensor and then one was for the electronic spark control. Not sure what that is. Though I see no reason an o2 would affect it.

lookin4aTA

So no one has any idea?

infinitebird

iTrader: (11)

code 43 is the knock sensor. That's a fairly serious code, basically the computer will pull a really high amount of timing and you will lose a lot of power. It's usually either a bad knock sensor or bad wiring/connection to it. You can do the diagnostic on shoebox's site to find out which it is.

Not sure how you can think the o2 would not affect it if you only noticed this behavior after changing the O2s. It's been proven over and over that the bosch o2s do not work well in these cars.

tonskiguy

iTrader: (3)

I ran with new Bosch O2s since I built my 383. The car ran filthy rich at everything except WOT. I just finally changed to new AC Delcos and have notice a major improvement. I'd only use the AC Delcos from now on.

lookin4aTA

This was before I had the car scanned. I was a little pissed off since i had just spent 3 hours trying to get an o2 out of my car. Aswell, I never had anyone say anything about the bousch o2s being pieces of ****. Hopefully I can get the knock sensor out and then get a different o2 to change out that is decent.

Ralls

iTrader: (32)

Change the o2 before you mess with the knock sensor. The KS is stuck in there good anyhow. It could be working properly and pulling timing because the crappy o2's are showing a lean condition.

infinitebird

iTrader: (11)

no, code 43 means there is an electrical fault in the KS circuit. Basically the computer can not get the correct signal from it. It wouldn't have anything to do with the O2s. What you're describing could occur but the knock sensor would still have to be working correctly to provide a signal to the computer. code 43 means it's not.

LT1Falcon

iTrader: (3)

i know this is off topic but i saw your 17 second 1/4 mile time and at first thought it was for your formula. i was like holy cow thats slow. then i realized it was for your truck lol

Ralls

iTrader: (32)

Aight. I wasn't sure if the code meant the KS voltage was out of limits (fault in circuit) or it was seeing excessive knock.

One thing to look for is how your plug wires are routed. It is possible for the KS to see incorrect reading by induction from a spark plug wire if rapped around it.

lookin4aTA

So, what you are saying is to change the KS first correct? Just want to be sure about this before I go changing all kinds of things that aren't 100% necessary. I am going to change the o2 next chance I have as well, just want to be completely sure on what you are saying.

LT1falcon-you aren't the first to get confused by that. I have even done it myself when not paying attention lol.

infinitebird

iTrader: (11)

It could be the knock sensor or the pcm/wiring. You need to do the resistance test to find out which.

See here: http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#knock_sensor

lookin4aTA

What do the ports look like on the PCM? Never done one of these before.

Ralls

iTrader: (32)

Your not checking any port on the PCM. It's the wires going to the PCM from the o2. So that means check the signal wire coming off the o2 with a voltmeter. A regular multimeter usually doesn't work because the o2 voltage changes to rapidly for it to keep up.

racerns

I believe that the pass side O2 wiring and the knock sensor wire run down from the pcm together on that side of the engine. It is possible that you did someting to the knock sensor wire while you were trying to get the O2 out.