LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

This is seriously becoming a bitch....!

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Old 09-04-2007, 03:38 AM
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Angry This is seriously becoming a bitch....!

Alright, where to start.....
My car has been running hotter than what it should and has been using some water, but its not in the oil. I did have a coolant hose that was leaking a few weeks back but is now fixed, so that can't be the issue. It leaks no water on the ground and I can't smell any burning on hot engine parts. I would like to think that the TH-350 tranny with the stall/gear is causing the extra heat build up due to it running at higher RPM's than a stock car, but I don't know?

I have an electric water pump and a 160 stat. But when its hot outside, like 90 degrees or more hot, my car runs at like 200-210. But at night and on cooler days it runs around 180 or less? It never had this problem before and I was wondering what else it could be?

-A bad radiator cap?
-Fans not kicking on?
-The fact that my coolant is no longer coolant but pretty much all water due to the previous coolant leak?
-Or the more heat generated by the engine from the higher RPM?

This is really starting burn my *** b/c I can't seem to figure it out. It never gets hot enough to melt anything down, just hot enough to the point that it pisses me off. A few of my buddies have a EWP and theirs live around 180* no matter what the outside temp is? But then one has a 6-speed and the other is A4.

I don't know? Anyone have any ideas before I go and buy a bunch of **** that I don't need?
Old 09-04-2007, 04:02 AM
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Those temps are perfectly normal if you have a stock tune.

Tune or fan switch to engage fans earlier will keep it cooler.
Old 09-04-2007, 04:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Formula_LT1
Alright, where to start.....
My car has been running hotter than what it should and has been using some water, but its not in the oil. I did have a coolant hose that was leaking a few weeks back but is now fixed, so that can't be the issue. It leaks no water on the ground and I can't smell any burning on hot engine parts. I would like to think that the TH-350 tranny with the stall/gear is causing the extra heat build up due to it running at higher RPM's than a stock car, but I don't know?

I have an electric water pump and a 160 stat. But when its hot outside, like 90 degrees or more hot, my car runs at like 200-210. But at night and on cooler days it runs around 180 or less? It never had this problem before and I was wondering what else it could be?

-A bad radiator cap?
-Fans not kicking on?
-The fact that my coolant is no longer coolant but pretty much all water due to the previous coolant leak?
-Or the more heat generated by the engine from the higher RPM?

This is really starting burn my *** b/c I can't seem to figure it out. It never gets hot enough to melt anything down, just hot enough to the point that it pisses me off. A few of my buddies have a EWP and theirs live around 180* no matter what the outside temp is? But then one has a 6-speed and the other is A4.

I don't know? Anyone have any ideas before I go and buy a bunch of **** that I don't need?
My advice would be to:
Install trans cooler for your upgraded stall.
Replace antifreeze to 50/50 solution.
Replace radiator cap, just to be sure.
Reprogram PCM to have fans turn on at 180*.
Old 09-04-2007, 04:49 AM
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I left out some info. Sorry.
My car is fully dyno tuned and the fans are set to come on at 180. And I also have atrans cooler.
Old 09-04-2007, 06:46 AM
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If you're running a stock TStat, that is the right temp sorry to say. I mine set to come on around 170 for the 160TStat that is yet to be installed, and I run 200f. Stock LT1s run 220-235.
Old 09-04-2007, 08:58 AM
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Well when its really hot out my car runs hot, so that could be perfectly normal. I have the stock 180 Tstat with the computer set to run the fans at 160. I need to get a 160 Tstat. I have heard that e-water pumps do crap out from time to time, but you would have noticed that.
Old 09-04-2007, 09:01 AM
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Are you noticing this only when the A/C is turned on?
And where is the tranny cooler mounted? (is it strapped to the radiator and sharng the fan?)
Old 09-04-2007, 03:01 PM
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id say that because of ur trans and the fact that its going to run at a little higher rpm will crusing around town that could be a small part of the higher temp. but ur not in the red zone so its nothing to freak out about. ya deffinately get some actual coolant in there though. straight water isnt that good for it. and as said befor try a new radiator cap. might help. loss of pressure in the cooling system will cause it to run hotter if im not mistaken.
Old 09-04-2007, 08:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Formula350
If you're running a stock TStat, that is the right temp sorry to say. I mine set to come on around 170 for the 160TStat that is yet to be installed, and I run 200f. Stock LT1s run 220-235.
I have a 160.
To answer a few more questions, my cooler is mounted on the top lefthand side of the a/c condensor. My A/c Is not working at the moment so I never turn it on.
Old 09-04-2007, 08:35 PM
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Actually straight water has better heat transfer properties than glycol but you don't want to use straight water due to: decreased boiling point (212*) and calcium buildup on EVERYTHING inside the water passages. Calcium buildup can ruin a radiator (ask me how I know).
Old 09-04-2007, 08:42 PM
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Have thought about up-grading the radiator?

Mine is hard pressed to get over 160 normaly and Barely gets to 180. On an all out N2O passes it hits 200 and is back to 180 by the time I get my time slip.

I am running a Be Cool Radiator.

NBTW also running a Half fill of rock in the block
Old 09-04-2007, 11:01 PM
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Originally Posted by TwoFast4Lv
Have thought about up-grading the radiator?

Mine is hard pressed to get over 160 normaly and Barely gets to 180. On an all out N2O passes it hits 200 and is back to 180 by the time I get my time slip.

I am running a Be Cool Radiator.

NBTW also running a Half fill of rock in the block
I have seriously thought about that. What did you payfor your if you don't mind me asking? Don't they go for around $600?
Old 09-04-2007, 11:06 PM
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E-waterpumps flow less than the stock waterpumps so the higher cruise rpm from your tranny is probably causing it. And my be-cool was $500 with a new radiator cap a couple years ago, I haven't checked the prices recently.
Old 09-04-2007, 11:57 PM
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I am running an E-Pump as well

I want to say it was around $800 to my door. Automatic cost ALOT more
Old 09-05-2007, 12:13 AM
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I can see it costing more if you didn't have an External Cooler.
I had a heating problem with my Stroker..it was getting hot, I set both Fans to come on Manually, I haven't had a problem since, runs at 180*-190* Street, and doesn't get above 200* rompin on it, and we have been in the 105*+Temp range during the day lately. Night time it runs cool..really cool.
Old 09-05-2007, 12:23 AM
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merv wheres your car been? no new track times?
Old 09-05-2007, 12:30 AM
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Been putting miles on it..Tuning it. It's starting to break in really nice, I still have to tweak some things.
I'm trying to figure out the best Slicks for it..it's got alot of power to put to the ground..



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