113,000 miles, daily driver - go synthetic or not?
10-04-2007, 08:56 PM
#21
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (53)
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Monticello, Kentucky
Posts: 4,433
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Lucas is a sham I do believe. And a synthetic oil is far superior than Lucas's makeup. SO DON'T MIX 'EM. If you like M1 (I do), try 0w-40 or 5w-40 Turbo Diesel Truck (Delvac 1). Another little tidbit of info, the 5w-30 Truck & SUV has a cSt @ 100*C of 11.3 opposed to 10.0 for regular 10w-30 (viscosity). So the T&SUV is quite a bit thicker at temp than the other popular weights around here. IIRC, the popular German Castrol 0w-30 is about 12.
10-04-2007, 09:03 PM
#22
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Decatur, TN (N-W of Athens)
Posts: 7,564
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
I think we should all point our questions to Cap. He's just Mr Know It All, that it really is a waste of time for us to post any reply, since he'll just come in and tell us we're wrong, stupid, and then the correct info
10-04-2007, 11:20 PM
#27
Most of the replies sofar are steaming piles of bull written by guys who think watching a TV comercial is "research"
This on in particular is BAD.
Lucas causes foaming, M1 is PROVEN to NOT be a great oil in the LT1.
BlackScreaminMachine and 1bdbrd are the only ones that offered any good info. I would disagree with Black though and say you could switch if you want.
The next big question though is what oil to run and I will say that what most of these yahoos will recommend will likely be a poor choice. They will mostly say M1 5w-30 or 10w-30 but MEASURED wear iron content in used M1 of those weights from this engine in real world use says they are wrong.
This on in particular is BAD.
Lucas causes foaming, M1 is PROVEN to NOT be a great oil in the LT1.
BlackScreaminMachine and 1bdbrd are the only ones that offered any good info. I would disagree with Black though and say you could switch if you want.
The next big question though is what oil to run and I will say that what most of these yahoos will recommend will likely be a poor choice. They will mostly say M1 5w-30 or 10w-30 but MEASURED wear iron content in used M1 of those weights from this engine in real world use says they are wrong.
10-05-2007, 01:43 AM
#28
Most of the replies sofar are steaming piles of bull written by guys who think watching a TV comercial is "research"
This on in particular is BAD.
Lucas causes foaming, M1 is PROVEN to NOT be a great oil in the LT1.
BlackScreaminMachine and 1bdbrd are the only ones that offered any good info. I would disagree with Black though and say you could switch if you want.
The next big question though is what oil to run and I will say that what most of these yahoos will recommend will likely be a poor choice. They will mostly say M1 5w-30 or 10w-30 but MEASURED wear iron content in used M1 of those weights from this engine in real world use says they are wrong.
This on in particular is BAD.
Lucas causes foaming, M1 is PROVEN to NOT be a great oil in the LT1.
BlackScreaminMachine and 1bdbrd are the only ones that offered any good info. I would disagree with Black though and say you could switch if you want.
The next big question though is what oil to run and I will say that what most of these yahoos will recommend will likely be a poor choice. They will mostly say M1 5w-30 or 10w-30 but MEASURED wear iron content in used M1 of those weights from this engine in real world use says they are wrong.
10-05-2007, 07:40 AM
#29
Check the oil forum links in other threads, MEASURED results prove the usual M1 oils in an LT1 are not that good. RP is good for the track but does not hold up on the street, you have a better understanding of all this than most already, the real info on the Bob is the oil Guy forum will help you a lot.
kinglt-1, pretty much everything in your post was wrong.
synthetic and dino oils do not create different clearances, and as someone else said synthetic if it does develop leaks it is because of cleaning and often as that cleaning progresses those leaks will stop.
Maxlife is nothing special, thick for it's weight and some seal conditioners, not saying it is bad either just no magic there.
kinglt-1 here is the oil forum link http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/ubbthreads.php go down to the Used Oil Analysis section and search.
Important to consider oil quality is not the key here the only way to really know is measured results in a like engine. The M1 oils that are not so good in an LT1 are good quality oils, they just do not work that great in the LT1 and oddly the LS1 as well, even as different as these motors are they seem to have similar preferences.
These used oil analyses are like track or dyno testing for modifications, they are the only real tests we have of PROOF of what works.
kinglt-1, pretty much everything in your post was wrong.
synthetic and dino oils do not create different clearances, and as someone else said synthetic if it does develop leaks it is because of cleaning and often as that cleaning progresses those leaks will stop.
Maxlife is nothing special, thick for it's weight and some seal conditioners, not saying it is bad either just no magic there.
kinglt-1 here is the oil forum link http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/ubbthreads.php go down to the Used Oil Analysis section and search.
Important to consider oil quality is not the key here the only way to really know is measured results in a like engine. The M1 oils that are not so good in an LT1 are good quality oils, they just do not work that great in the LT1 and oddly the LS1 as well, even as different as these motors are they seem to have similar preferences.
These used oil analyses are like track or dyno testing for modifications, they are the only real tests we have of PROOF of what works.
10-05-2007, 07:58 AM
#30
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (53)
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Monticello, Kentucky
Posts: 4,433
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by 96capricemgr
Check the oil forum links in other threads, MEASURED results prove the usual M1 oils in an LT1 are not that good. RP is good for the track but does not hold up on the street, you have a better understanding of all this than most already, the real info on the Bob is the oil Guy forum will help you a lot.
10-05-2007, 08:17 AM
#32
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (53)
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Monticello, Kentucky
Posts: 4,433
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by 96capricemgr
A 1.8T VW I saw 15K mile results on with a single fill of 5w-30 M1 was awesome, that crowd would be boarderline ricer though so I would guess MEASURED results would mean even less there than here.
10-05-2007, 11:44 AM
#33
Check the oil forum links in other threads, MEASURED results prove the usual M1 oils in an LT1 are not that good. RP is good for the track but does not hold up on the street, you have a better understanding of all this than most already, the real info on the Bob is the oil Guy forum will help you a lot.
kinglt-1, pretty much everything in your post was wrong.
synthetic and dino oils do not create different clearances, and as someone else said synthetic if it does develop leaks it is because of cleaning and often as that cleaning progresses those leaks will stop.
Maxlife is nothing special, thick for it's weight and some seal conditioners, not saying it is bad either just no magic there.
kinglt-1 here is the oil forum link http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/ubbthreads.php go down to the Used Oil Analysis section and search.
Important to consider oil quality is not the key here the only way to really know is measured results in a like engine. The M1 oils that are not so good in an LT1 are good quality oils, they just do not work that great in the LT1 and oddly the LS1 as well, even as different as these motors are they seem to have similar preferences.
These used oil analyses are like track or dyno testing for modifications, they are the only real tests we have of PROOF of what works.
kinglt-1, pretty much everything in your post was wrong.
synthetic and dino oils do not create different clearances, and as someone else said synthetic if it does develop leaks it is because of cleaning and often as that cleaning progresses those leaks will stop.
Maxlife is nothing special, thick for it's weight and some seal conditioners, not saying it is bad either just no magic there.
kinglt-1 here is the oil forum link http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/ubbthreads.php go down to the Used Oil Analysis section and search.
Important to consider oil quality is not the key here the only way to really know is measured results in a like engine. The M1 oils that are not so good in an LT1 are good quality oils, they just do not work that great in the LT1 and oddly the LS1 as well, even as different as these motors are they seem to have similar preferences.
These used oil analyses are like track or dyno testing for modifications, they are the only real tests we have of PROOF of what works.
10-05-2007, 01:49 PM
#34
Check the oil forum links in other threads, MEASURED results prove the usual M1 oils in an LT1 are not that good. RP is good for the track but does not hold up on the street, you have a better understanding of all this than most already, the real info on the Bob is the oil Guy forum will help you a lot.
kinglt-1, pretty much everything in your post was wrong.
synthetic and dino oils do not create different clearances, and as someone else said synthetic if it does develop leaks it is because of cleaning and often as that cleaning progresses those leaks will stop.
Maxlife is nothing special, thick for it's weight and some seal conditioners, not saying it is bad either just no magic there.
kinglt-1 here is the oil forum link http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/ubbthreads.php go down to the Used Oil Analysis section and search.
Important to consider oil quality is not the key here the only way to really know is measured results in a like engine. The M1 oils that are not so good in an LT1 are good quality oils, they just do not work that great in the LT1 and oddly the LS1 as well, even as different as these motors are they seem to have similar preferences.
These used oil analyses are like track or dyno testing for modifications, they are the only real tests we have of PROOF of what works.
kinglt-1, pretty much everything in your post was wrong.
synthetic and dino oils do not create different clearances, and as someone else said synthetic if it does develop leaks it is because of cleaning and often as that cleaning progresses those leaks will stop.
Maxlife is nothing special, thick for it's weight and some seal conditioners, not saying it is bad either just no magic there.
kinglt-1 here is the oil forum link http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/ubbthreads.php go down to the Used Oil Analysis section and search.
Important to consider oil quality is not the key here the only way to really know is measured results in a like engine. The M1 oils that are not so good in an LT1 are good quality oils, they just do not work that great in the LT1 and oddly the LS1 as well, even as different as these motors are they seem to have similar preferences.
These used oil analyses are like track or dyno testing for modifications, they are the only real tests we have of PROOF of what works.
10-06-2007, 12:59 AM
#36
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (32)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Fairfax, Virginia
Posts: 1,687
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yo 96capricemgr,
I understand what your trying to get across. I know there are quite of few bull **** rumors that fly around, and they get repeated over and over until everyone reads them and then all of a sudden it becomes a "fact." I'll admit, I've never done tests on different brand oils, so I don't know exactly what is best for LT1's. I just tried to give a little knowledge of what I have been taught. I'm eager to learn, that's why I'm going to be reading up on that "Bob is the oil guy" forum. I don't mind constructive criticism, but put it to us lightly. Like I said, I'm eager to learn, so let me know if I'm talking out of my ***. I feel like a nerd just telling people how I feel on here. The only reason I even come on here is because I'm bored out of my mind and this shitty town has nothing to do.
I understand what your trying to get across. I know there are quite of few bull **** rumors that fly around, and they get repeated over and over until everyone reads them and then all of a sudden it becomes a "fact." I'll admit, I've never done tests on different brand oils, so I don't know exactly what is best for LT1's. I just tried to give a little knowledge of what I have been taught. I'm eager to learn, that's why I'm going to be reading up on that "Bob is the oil guy" forum. I don't mind constructive criticism, but put it to us lightly. Like I said, I'm eager to learn, so let me know if I'm talking out of my ***. I feel like a nerd just telling people how I feel on here. The only reason I even come on here is because I'm bored out of my mind and this shitty town has nothing to do.
10-08-2007, 09:31 PM
#40
just stick with dyno.. castrol if u can its passed the most tests (castrol GTX) that is.. iv put it side by side with mobile and other oils it comes out on top.. RP doesnt even have any tests on it... (im talking about manufact tests not counting the oldschool ones)
going from 20-50 to 15-40 here
going from 20-50 to 15-40 here