113,000 miles, daily driver - go synthetic or not?
#1
113,000 miles, daily driver - go synthetic or not?
The motor in my car runs very well for the miles, it has some small oil leaks, but I do not have to add any oil between changes. My car sees alot of highway miles, and I probably won't be able to get a new car for two more years, so I'm trying to get the most out of this car. Any suggestions?
#7
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You should always use synthetic oil, in anything, anytime, anywhere.
I would use mobile 1 10-40 with 1 qt of synthetic lucas oil stabilizer.
you should be good for over 10,000 miles.
I dont care what they say it is NOT ok to be gay !!
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I would use mobile 1 10-40 with 1 qt of synthetic lucas oil stabilizer.
you should be good for over 10,000 miles.
I dont care what they say it is NOT ok to be gay !!
............................
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#14
Thats not true. My old trans am had 150k miles on it when I switched it over to synthetic and there were NO problems what-so-ever. Everything ran great, no leaks, and held GREAT oil pressure.
#15
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JUst put max life valvoline in. Synthetic is just going to make your leaks a whole lot worse. Synthetic is good stuff but your motor has clearenced it's tolerances on mineral oil. I personally like the old mineral oil anyways in lt-1 because of the damn timing cover, I had to put three timing cover seals on my 383 to get it sealed.
#16
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Most of the replies sofar are steaming piles of bull written by guys who think watching a TV comercial is "research"
This on in particular is BAD.
Lucas causes foaming, M1 is PROVEN to NOT be a great oil in the LT1.
BlackScreaminMachine and 1bdbrd are the only ones that offered any good info. I would disagree with Black though and say you could switch if you want.
The next big question though is what oil to run and I will say that what most of these yahoos will recommend will likely be a poor choice. They will mostly say M1 5w-30 or 10w-30 but MEASURED wear iron content in used M1 of those weights from this engine in real world use says they are wrong.
This on in particular is BAD.
BlackScreaminMachine and 1bdbrd are the only ones that offered any good info. I would disagree with Black though and say you could switch if you want.
The next big question though is what oil to run and I will say that what most of these yahoos will recommend will likely be a poor choice. They will mostly say M1 5w-30 or 10w-30 but MEASURED wear iron content in used M1 of those weights from this engine in real world use says they are wrong.
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Most of the replies sofar are steaming piles of bull written by guys who think watching a TV comercial is "research"
This on in particular is BAD.
Lucas causes foaming, M1 is PROVEN to NOT be a great oil in the LT1.
BlackScreaminMachine and 1bdbrd are the only ones that offered any good info. I would disagree with Black though and say you could switch if you want.
The next big question though is what oil to run and I will say that what most of these yahoos will recommend will likely be a poor choice. They will mostly say M1 5w-30 or 10w-30 but MEASURED wear iron content in used M1 of those weights from this engine in real world use says they are wrong.
This on in particular is BAD.
Lucas causes foaming, M1 is PROVEN to NOT be a great oil in the LT1.
BlackScreaminMachine and 1bdbrd are the only ones that offered any good info. I would disagree with Black though and say you could switch if you want.
The next big question though is what oil to run and I will say that what most of these yahoos will recommend will likely be a poor choice. They will mostly say M1 5w-30 or 10w-30 but MEASURED wear iron content in used M1 of those weights from this engine in real world use says they are wrong.
#19
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I switched from Mobil 5w30 to Pennzoil Platinum, don't really have any intentions of going back. From what I've seen, Platinum is far superior to M1. I would never use Pennzoil in anything else, but the Platinum seems legit.