Is any amount of visible copper flakes bad?
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Teching In
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Is any amount of visible copper flakes bad? Got a "new" LS2 from a wreck, and did confirm 1-2% leakdown across the board. Internals looked as new as they get, however the first oil out of it had concerning copper metal flake pouring out the filter. The drain plug had a few mm of iron. So, did a oil analysis, came back 60 ppm copper - they said drive, retest as it wasn't indicative of failure. I just changed the oil, went around the block, checked the filter. Copper shavings again, not a ton but too much for a ride around the block. Maybe they were leftover from the last change?
My question is, at what point do I call it and tear it down? I get so many conflicting opinions to where ppl say LS motors just shed copper naturally, then others that say any visible amount is grounds for an overhaul. I don't want to tear it down to find no abnormal signs of wear, and I should have ran it ... I need experienced ppl to give me some insight here.
My question is, at what point do I call it and tear it down? I get so many conflicting opinions to where ppl say LS motors just shed copper naturally, then others that say any visible amount is grounds for an overhaul. I don't want to tear it down to find no abnormal signs of wear, and I should have ran it ... I need experienced ppl to give me some insight here.
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From: Alaska
I have (5) LS engines in regular daily service.
All of them are 20 years old, and range from 134,000 miles to 220,000 miles.
3 are naturally aspirated, one supercharged and one turbocharged.
3 have TSP camshafts, Each cam was installed under OEM ( 100,000 mile+ Lifters)
I run them HARD, and I tend toward high RPM shiftpoints.
NONE have shown visible metallic flake in drain oil.
All of them are 20 years old, and range from 134,000 miles to 220,000 miles.
3 are naturally aspirated, one supercharged and one turbocharged.
3 have TSP camshafts, Each cam was installed under OEM ( 100,000 mile+ Lifters)
I run them HARD, and I tend toward high RPM shiftpoints.
NONE have shown visible metallic flake in drain oil.
I’d hope that the latest flakes were residual. Having said that, benchmark your HOT idle oil pressure and watch it like a Trump Secret Service member. If it trends downward, you know what’s up. In the meanwhile, drive the thing. Are you cutting your filters open with the correct filter cutter tool? If your not looking inside them, you should be.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Sep 2024
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I’d hope that the latest flakes were residual. Having said that, benchmark your HOT idle oil pressure and watch it like a Trump Secret Service member. If it trends downward, you know what’s up. In the meanwhile, drive the thing. Are you cutting your filters open with the correct filter cutter tool? If your not looking inside them, you should be.
Thread Starter
Teching In
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But can't it fuse a journal to a bearing that way instead of me being able to rebuild it? Is there any chance I could fix this problem at home if it's a bad bearing or something?
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Sep 2024
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
I have (5) LS engines in regular daily service.
All of them are 20 years old, and range from 134,000 miles to 220,000 miles.
3 are naturally aspirated, one supercharged and one turbocharged.
3 have TSP camshafts, Each cam was installed under OEM ( 100,000 mile+ Lifters)
I run them HARD, and I tend toward high RPM shiftpoints.
NONE have shown visible metallic flake in drain oil.
All of them are 20 years old, and range from 134,000 miles to 220,000 miles.
3 are naturally aspirated, one supercharged and one turbocharged.
3 have TSP camshafts, Each cam was installed under OEM ( 100,000 mile+ Lifters)
I run them HARD, and I tend toward high RPM shiftpoints.
NONE have shown visible metallic flake in drain oil.
I need to know if new engines do this, because this engine has all the traits of a new one
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On The Tree
Joined: Feb 2022
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From: Grand Rapids, MI
My forged 6.0L has always had concerning amounts of metal in the oil according to my eyes, but runs great(3 years, 10,000 miles). Oil pressure has been steady.
All the probably 6-7 oil changes I've done, I cut the filter open and I am always disappointed, but it still keeps taking a beating.
All the probably 6-7 oil changes I've done, I cut the filter open and I am always disappointed, but it still keeps taking a beating.
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Thread Starter
Teching In
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My forged 6.0L has always had concerning amounts of metal in the oil according to my eyes, but runs great(3 years, 10,000 miles). Oil pressure has been steady.
All the probably 6-7 oil changes I've done, I cut the filter open and I am always disappointed, but it still keeps taking a beating.
All the probably 6-7 oil changes I've done, I cut the filter open and I am always disappointed, but it still keeps taking a beating.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Jan 2023
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From: Corpus Christi, TX
That is not good JuJu buddy I hope the oil prssure hangs in there. Out of the 100 of these LS's that I have dealt with never seen this once. Is it dod deleted? If so I would say step it up to 10w-40 to make it last a little longer if your not willing to tear it down yet just my 2 cents.
Thread Starter
Teching In
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And if it looks like dirt or something got in there and it's otherwise fine, can I run the block with those copper shavings that'll be in some nooks and crannies? Copper is soft, but I've heard mixed things. Also there was some iron on the plug
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I'd hesitate to say. I probably wouldn't. Butt that's just me. Esp if it's already all the way torn down, doesn't make sense not to straighten it out.
A little iron/steel dust on the drain plug is normal. I'd have to see what you've got, to have an opinion on whether it's serious or not.
Again, wait til you get there and have the data. Idle speculation and worrying aren't a good way to spend life.
A little iron/steel dust on the drain plug is normal. I'd have to see what you've got, to have an opinion on whether it's serious or not.
Again, wait til you get there and have the data. Idle speculation and worrying aren't a good way to spend life.