New Motor, No Start...Help ASAP!!
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New Motor, No Start...Help ASAP!!
I swear nothing ever goes my way.... I finallllllllllly dropped the new build in today and got it bolted up and wired up everything i could, minus the accessories (water pump, radiator, ac, alternator ect....). Wire up the starter and turn it over hoping to hear it come to life finally, but nothing. No click even. Switched wires around numerous times and same result. Finally bench tested the starter off of a battery charger and its good. Bench tested it while hooked up to the flywheel and motor cranks. What would keep the starter from engaging while on the car? This is really getting to me and definitely holding me back.
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Make sure the starter surface to engine block is clean... that's the ground. There are some really easy tests to do with a volt meter. Do you know how to do voltage drops? Do them from the +battery terminal each terminal on starter. And from the starter case to negative battery terminal. All while cranking (even though the engine isn't cranking).
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I know this sounds stupid but is the battery good? I had a similar problem and I replaced my battery and she cranked right over...just a thought. Eliminate the easy things first.
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First you should check to see if you have power (purple wire)to the starter while the key is in the crank position. If you don't, it could be the starter relay, power to the relay, neutral park safety switch, open circuit. Start at the start wire and work your way back to the ignition switch.
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Battery is brand new..Motor cranked over with the starter, but the starter was plugged up to a battery charger. But i just thought of something...that big sensor that goes to the tranny is not plugged in. Would it not start because the trans doesnt know its in park?
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There is an ignition switch and a neutral/park safety switch that needs to be closed to spin the starter. Sounds like it doesn't know it's in park without the sensor like you suspected.
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do u have the maf connected when i was changing my opti i put it on and it would start but run like crap and idle super low and when i connected the maf it turned on and stayed on and also if u dont have the cooling connected the pcm wont let it stay on... so CONNECT EVERYTHING and hope for the best...
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Should I just hook up EVERYTHING. I dont want to put in the freakin radiator and that damn bracket on the front of the motor that everything bolts to because its a pain and if it doesnt work then I just have to take off everything again. What has to be done has to be done though.. A few things to question what a few of you have said though. The block has been painted would that affect ground connection? This neutral/park safety switch and ignition switch how do i know if its closed/open. Does anyone know exactly what all has to be hooked up for the motor to crank?
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Like I said, do voltage drops. Google how to do it if you must. If the block is painted at the contact surface of the motor to starter, then it won't get a ground connection. Also you have a ground wire connected from the engine to negative battery terminal. So if there is any paint between metal on metal contact, no electricity will make it back to the battery.
There are two switches to the starter.. park/neutral safety switch and ignition switch. They are both on the same wire. Ignition switch closes when you turn the key, and the p/n switch closes only in park and neutral. Notice how you can't start a car is reverse or forward gears? You shouldn't need anything else hooked up to crank the motor. But you WILL need a few other things hooked up so the PCM tells the injectors to come on.
There are two switches to the starter.. park/neutral safety switch and ignition switch. They are both on the same wire. Ignition switch closes when you turn the key, and the p/n switch closes only in park and neutral. Notice how you can't start a car is reverse or forward gears? You shouldn't need anything else hooked up to crank the motor. But you WILL need a few other things hooked up so the PCM tells the injectors to come on.
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Well... i am not sure but I think everyone should stop. Calm down and go to the basics.....
You forgot about chassis grounds. You have the one over there under the air cleaner. The one that goes from the chassis to the coil mounting bolt. then you have the pair... one on each side that bolt down to the core support om each side of the radiator.
Look your wiring over. Just use a fine tooth comb. You'll get it.
You forgot about chassis grounds. You have the one over there under the air cleaner. The one that goes from the chassis to the coil mounting bolt. then you have the pair... one on each side that bolt down to the core support om each side of the radiator.
Look your wiring over. Just use a fine tooth comb. You'll get it.
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Doing voltage drops is as basic as you can get. It eliminates you from guessing where a short is.
Example, if your getting power to the starter but it's not grounded; You put the red volt meter lead on starter case, black on negative battery terminal. Crank the motor and if your meter says ~12volts, that means 12 volts are being used up between the starter and negative battery. Then you discover the negative wire from negative battery terminal to motor/chassis isn't connected. Bolt is on and your voltage drop is now 0.00Xvolts as well as the motor now cranks.
It may seem hard, but you have to know how to use a multimeter to work on cars these days.
Example, if your getting power to the starter but it's not grounded; You put the red volt meter lead on starter case, black on negative battery terminal. Crank the motor and if your meter says ~12volts, that means 12 volts are being used up between the starter and negative battery. Then you discover the negative wire from negative battery terminal to motor/chassis isn't connected. Bolt is on and your voltage drop is now 0.00Xvolts as well as the motor now cranks.
It may seem hard, but you have to know how to use a multimeter to work on cars these days.
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I took an auto tech class last year and electrical was the first semester. Luckily I figured it out. That damn neutral/park safety switch was out for some odd reason...? (Thanks Ralls!) So now the starter engages when I turn the key over but clicks like its not getting enough power...go figure i get one thing but then something else comes up!!! :-O. Battery is new...all grounds good. Could this be the symptoms of a mis-wired starter? Or do yall think it might be something else?
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I took an auto tech class last year and electrical was the first semester. Luckily I figured it out. That damn neutral/park safety switch was out for some odd reason...? (Thanks Ralls!) So now the starter engages when I turn the key over but clicks like its not getting enough power...go figure i get one thing but then something else comes up!!! :-O. Battery is new...all grounds good. Could this be the symptoms of a mis-wired starter? Or do yall think it might be something else?