LoStOCeAnZ63

what are the RLBs? where do you buy them what do they do how do they help

hyperzone

Relocation brackets... bolts/welds in place where your lower control arms normally attach to the rear axle and provides one or two 'lower' mounting points to 'relocate' the bars. I'm not sure of the best way to explain the benifit but, it will change the angle the LCA's and will effectively change the direction of energy/force of the rearend and the frame. Someone else will have to chime in on that and correct me or add to that. It is a highly recommended part when you lower our cars because when you lower the car you're offsetting that 'angle' in the opposite way so you need these brackets to make it right.

UMI

SPOHN

BMR - Scroll down a little

I'm sure there's many other brands but, I think those are all sponsers so I'm allowed to list them as examples at least.

LoStOCeAnZ63

ok and what does that do for traction?

hyperzone

recheck my post above.. I editted it a bit... UMI has a great explanation and photos of these on their site.

LoStOCeAnZ63

cool so that wont lift my car right? ir will just make it get traction better?

Revelation Z28

iTrader: (10)

they reduced rear squat with me. i have way better traction, hard takeoffs the weight just shifts.

LoStOCeAnZ63

cool ill look into getting some does it matter if i get bolt in or weld in? and if i put bigger or more sticky tires on the back and launch am i going to break my rear end?

UMI Performance

iTrader: (77)

Both the bolt-ins or weld-ins will work just fine. We always do recommend if the vehicle is raced aggressively and frequently to go with the weld in's. But you can always weld in the bolt ins at any time.

If you have any questions please ask. Thank you!
Ryan

Enforcerws6

iTrader: (1)

Call Ryan at UMI and get a set of bolt in relo brackets and try them. You will not be sorry I promise.

Basically think of it this way when your rear end rotates a bit due to torque it is going to push on the lower control arms. They angle they are at now you are pushing forward on the car. If they are 2 to 3 inches lower at the back where they meet the rear end they will have an upward push on the frame where they mount in the front. What this does will "load" the rear suspension and basically push the rear tires onto the pavement. This will give you traction. This will not help much on a wet road as you have to have some traction for this to work.

If you dont want to try this fill the gas tank clear full and put a few bags of sand or salt from lowes in the very back of the car. I bet it will hook better by doing this. I would not recomend driving it a ton like that but you will see somewhat the effects of the relo brackets. Planting the tires onto the ground is what you want to do.

This makes our set up similar to a four link not exactly but you are kind of doing the same thing. Which is changing the instant center of gravity of the car to where it will hook instead of where it is now clear out in front of the car. If you want to make it hook even better get a better torque arm set up and some better bushing for it and that will help to. This will help keep the rear from moving around as much and when it applies to the lower control arms it will push harder plus the tq arm itself will pick up on the front of the car a bit and help load the rear.

After doing a ton of work to my rear suspension going from 4.10 to 3.73 gears and putting a heavy *** nine inch rear under my car I didnt loose any et. I lost 1 MPH but the et was the same. The car pulls a bit less on top end but I can come off the line ***** to the wall where before I had to baby the gas for the first 10 to 20 feet. UMI makes great products give them a call and they will explain all this way way better then I can.

Captainofiron

iTrader: (1)

hmm I like mine, there no drag radial, and yea they do leave you out to dry on hard corners, but they are better than the KDWS thats for sure

theyre no Nitto, but I still like them

Boodyrider

iTrader: (2)

Again, your problem IS the suspension. I reread your setup, and while you really do need relocation brackets to correct the control arm angles, you also have a MAJOR problem with the spring/shock setup. The springs you have are so-so for handling, but have a VERY high spring rate. As a result, the shocks you have are unable to control the springs, especially because by lowering you have very little travel. A bit less lowering with a better spring (Sam Strano has a very well thought out spring set) and a FAR better shock is the only way to have good handling with significant lowering. You could keep the springs, but the shocks are inadequate. To control a stiff spring with little travel, you pretty much have to go with Koni, or at the least, Strano revalved Bilsteins. Yup... gonna cost you. You will also, with a lowered vehicle, have a difficulty time launching hard; stiff suspension may HANDLE well, IF thought out better than your setup, but stiff won't launch great. Drag setups are best with soft rear suspension.

Another problem you may have is the rear may be moved to one side due to the lowering; if you don't have an adjustable panhard bar, it is.


In short: whoever advised you on the suspension did you no favors... and you have now learned you can do it cheap, and then do it again, or you can do it right once, and it'll cost you. But at least it'll only cost you once.

BLK,97,T/A,M-6

Your problem is your suspension. 'grip' is attained by allowing your suspension to transfer weight to the rear tires. When you lower a car, it will have better cornering characteristics, because the center of gravity is lower. As a result, you must stiffen the springs to avoid bottoming out.(obviously)

When you stiffen your springs there are trade-offs:

pro's: higher cornering speeds due to the lower cg, and because less weight is transfered from left to right (this is good cause you can keep more weight on the inside tire).

cons: because of the lower weight trasfer capabilities, less weight goes to the rear of the car during acceleration causing the undesired wheelspin.

A very good friend of mine runs the kdw's on his 425rwhp LS-1 T/A with very good results. His suspension is stock except for a bmr torque arm.
He is actualy agitated by them cause unlike you, he loves burning off the tires effortlessly like he did with the stock tires.

I dont think bigger tires are the answer, cause they will only amplify the problem during wet conditions. I think you should reconsider your suspension tuning. Try reinstalling your stock springs and shocks, while keeping your beefed up swaybar installed. This will allow you to corner faster than stock, while still squating the rear of the car while accelerating to avoid excess wheelspin. Trust me when I say that a little body roll, and rear end squat (under acceleration) is a good thing.

JoeliusZ28

iTrader: (2)

relocation brackets are necessary on a lowered car to keep the angle of force applied to the car the same. you can consider yourself lucky you ONLY have traction issues, not not wheel hop. Ultimately, lowering a car that much is going to significantly lower forward traction because there is less weight transfer.

spee

iTrader: (1)

I got 19k on my last set of GS-D3s. But I also do a lot of backroads-canyon carving driving.
They grip GREAT. When they warm up I spin my clutch more than the tires.

Well worth the cost IMO.


When you get down the the wear bars ANY street tire will lose traction. I had a lot of fun with mine when I came time to get my current set put on.