LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

good daily driver cam?

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Old Oct 17, 2007 | 03:01 PM
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Default good daily driver cam?

what is a good cam for a DD that wont kill mpg but give a healthy boost in midrange and top end without sacrificing that low end grunt? my car has 131k on the clock so i know i will need lifters, opti, elect. water pump, timing set, and gasket set. i have a few picked out... LT4 hotcam kit, crane 227, cc305, or cc503, also what about gm846? btw i have an A4 and 3.23's.
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Old Oct 17, 2007 | 03:07 PM
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Originally Posted by mean_greenZ
...crane 227, ...
That's your cam. You could do a little better with a custom-grind using Extreme lobes, but you'll also have to be more careful setting up the valvetrain.

Mike
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Old Oct 17, 2007 | 03:52 PM
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i run the 306 in my 383 and daily drive the **** out of it.
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Old Oct 17, 2007 | 03:57 PM
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hey lt1man i see your in charlotte. are you going to the good guys car show on oct. 27th? if ya are we could meet up. i would love to hear your 383 cause i eventually wanna go with that. what kind of true dual setup do u have?
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Old Oct 17, 2007 | 04:06 PM
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131K on the clock eh? putting a cam in it, wont make it last much longer. wait till it blows, save your money, and do it right with a better motor.
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Old Oct 17, 2007 | 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by LT1MAN
i run the 306 in my 383 and daily drive the **** out of it.
There is NO WAY I would daily drive a CC306.
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Old Oct 17, 2007 | 05:25 PM
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alright i have come up with another plan. instead of pouring alot of money into a high mileage motor im gonna get all the suporting mods such as 3.73's, lt's, td's, electric wp, phb, stb, lca's, 58mm tb, plugs, wires, opti, coil, tranny build (done myself). im gonna get a golen forged 383 shortblock and LE2 h/c package. if im gonna tear the motor apart why not do it right and not regret it and make big power! thanks for the replies though
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Old Oct 17, 2007 | 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by mean_greenZ
what is a good cam for a DD that wont kill mpg but give a healthy boost in midrange and top end without sacrificing that low end grunt? my car has 131k on the clock so i know i will need lifters, opti, elect. water pump, timing set, and gasket set. i have a few picked out... LT4 hotcam kit, crane 227, cc305, or cc503, also what about gm846? btw i have an A4 and 3.23's.
Probably do NOT need lifter, opti cap and rotor kit should suffice, electric WPs are overrated they do free up power but do so by moving less water the bad part about them is the sudden total failure mode.
Should just need a new stock timing chain, not a whole set.

The 227 is the only one that would be even an OK choice on assuming a stock stall and those stock gears, still doing a cam before stall and gears is a MISTAKE, trust me it is a mistake I made. Then again with the money I saved you by correcting your parts list you can now afford say an Edge converter in say 28-3200 stall.

A friend put a custom cam from Advanced Induction in his 160K mile former cop car, basic intake and exhaust upgrades, stock iron b-body heads, 87 octane Creech tune and with a heavy driver and no lightening it ran 13.5 in 105 degree heat when cars with all the "right" parts and strokers with heads ported by the "right" porter with the "right" cams were running 13.1-4 .

For a cam only car to run within a few tenths of stroker with ported aftermarket castings I think says something.

Oh and because of the stock iron heads this is with 1.52 rockers, wanted to stay safely below the .540 lift where retainer to seal contact becomes possible.
Is his year round daily driver in Wisconsin winters even.

There is a thread here within the last couple days of another guys AI cam only results.
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Old Oct 17, 2007 | 09:11 PM
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I'm with 96cap. As long as you keep things clean during the cam swap, I wouldn't hesitate doing it on a high mileage motor.
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Old Oct 17, 2007 | 10:40 PM
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but what about the extra stress put on the stock high mileage bottom end? its gonna take a beating that its not ready for. so if i stick to bare minimums with the crane 227, matching rockers and springs. and get the timing chain. keep the stock water pump and just replace the gaskets i have removed. how much would i end up spending? this is without stall and gears. what kinda numbers would i make?
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Old Oct 17, 2007 | 10:42 PM
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Agreed, I'm on my 4th cam swap and 2nd head swap on a 100k mile bottom end. Just make sure to keep everything clean and you should be fine. I'm going to swap in a new oil pump with the white spring just to be safe though, plus it will give me a chance to clean out the pan and change the pickup since I'm sure some RTV made its way to the pan and got caught in the pickup.
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Old Oct 18, 2007 | 05:54 AM
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Originally Posted by mean_greenZ
but what about the extra stress put on the stock high mileage bottom end?
Exactly which part are you worried about? The rods, crank, and block would be re-used in an overhaul anyway. The pistons and rings don't generally break in NA applications regardless of mileage. That leaves the bearings, which aren't even a wear part.

Mike
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Old Oct 18, 2007 | 11:12 PM
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well there is spinning a rod bearing, main bearing, head gaskets...
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Old Oct 18, 2007 | 11:57 PM
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Originally Posted by mean_greenZ
well there is spinning a rod bearing, main bearing, head gaskets...
I really can't see where a cam swap will cause a rod bearing to spin, unless you get trash in the motor. Head gaskets aren't affected by the cam swap unless you use a much earlier IVC, which doesn't make sense for an aftermarket upgrade anyway.
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Old Oct 19, 2007 | 12:05 AM
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buy the hot cam kit from summit its like $570 or something it comes with the lt4 hot cam,1.6 full roller rockers,springs,locks,and retainers. i used to have that cam in my car and it was real streetable i liked. now i have a cc306
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Old Oct 19, 2007 | 12:12 AM
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Originally Posted by InnocentZ28
buy the hot cam kit
NOOOOOOO!!!!!
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Old Oct 19, 2007 | 02:13 AM
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Another vote for the 227 if you want lowend/midrange and stock like driveability and gas millage. I ran that cam with some mildy ported heads and the stock stall and went 12.56@111.00 with a slipping tranny (bouncin off the limiter 500 rpm's past the shift point before it would shift). With a built tranny and stall I probably could have knocked off some 11 second timeslips.
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Old Oct 19, 2007 | 06:41 AM
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question where would it be good to spin the 227 cam to i have a 170k mile lt1 with bolt ons and gears, and cracked of an 8.38 with a 1.89 60(has more in it still like 8.2x) and looking for 7.9x cam only?
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Old Oct 19, 2007 | 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by speed_demon24
Another vote for the 227 if you want lowend/midrange and stock like driveability and gas millage. I ran that cam with some mildy ported heads and the stock stall and went 12.56@111.00 with a slipping tranny (bouncin off the limiter 500 rpm's past the shift point before it would shift). With a built tranny and stall I probably could have knocked off some 11 second timeslips.
Yep, that cam is known for idling like stock and pulling off low 12's at 110+ mph. I myself did itn too. Don't forget that Frank95Z had the cam-only LT1 record for years with it running somewhere around 11.3 at 116.

Mike
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Old Oct 19, 2007 | 09:40 AM
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Go with the 227 or a custom grind. I DD'd the CC306 for a year and loved it, my car also had a decent sized converter in it and it was a blast to drive. The only bad thing about it was the MPG.
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