Grounding Kit = 9HP?
I agree w/ the concept of less resistance, but there needs to be a deficiency in the system to begin with, which I've never seen or heard of on these cars. If you're thinking along the lines of "every little bit helps" or "overkill", why then have at it.
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 2,861
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From: Ringoes/Flemington, New Jersey
if you have really really shitty wiring and poor grounds to begin with, then YES. this will help, but if the car runs fine... it wont do jack ****. The coil does its job fine. Thats where the ****** magic happens. in that coil 
I have a perfect test for you. check the power at your battery. then check your power at the coil. guarantee with stock wiring you will see the same voltage. maybe .01v difference. you wont magically pull volts out of your ***.
I have a perfect test for you. check the power at your battery. then check your power at the coil. guarantee with stock wiring you will see the same voltage. maybe .01v difference. you wont magically pull volts out of your ***.
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,419
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From: Holland Twp/Milford, New Jersey
since we're on the topic... are there any magic nuts and bolts that make the engine stronger??? how about magic tools, as well? i heard that rubbing moisterizing hand lotion inside the heads, you get smoother head flow! i also heard that if you play Mozart to plants, they grow faster. did you know the same thing applies with an engine? if you play Mozart during a race, it's equivalent to a 50 shot of nitrous! imagine that!
... this thread is rediculous...
... this thread is rediculous...
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From: Decatur, TN (N-W of Athens)
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Launching!
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 245
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From: Clover, South Carolina
Is that 5hp dyno proven? Can you produce the graph? What about the dyno not being 100% accurate every single time you dyno it? What about wrapping the intake in some sort of heat reflecting material. Throttle body airfoil. Removing the stock air intake silencer. (donkey dick) Porting the MAF. De-screening the MAF. Relocating the IAT sensor. Insulating fuel lines. Gutting the cat.
All of this and more is a bunch of stuff that we try and do to try to get that last tiny amount of horsepower out of the engine. The guys that say that this is bullshit haven't tried and are jumping on the bandwagon for whatever reason.
To the response above about the stock wiring not losing much voltage at the coil. Thats fine and well, I won't argue with that. What I have performed and proven on cars I've had (not my firebird yet) electrical modifications. On most of the stock cars I've had, they usually run 13.5 volts from the factory. I've consistently pull over 14.0 volts, even at idle, after doing the modifications. You can't argue that that will hurt performance in any way. Its just another trick to add to the list of **** we do to pull every possible tick of horsepower.
All of this and more is a bunch of stuff that we try and do to try to get that last tiny amount of horsepower out of the engine. The guys that say that this is bullshit haven't tried and are jumping on the bandwagon for whatever reason.
To the response above about the stock wiring not losing much voltage at the coil. Thats fine and well, I won't argue with that. What I have performed and proven on cars I've had (not my firebird yet) electrical modifications. On most of the stock cars I've had, they usually run 13.5 volts from the factory. I've consistently pull over 14.0 volts, even at idle, after doing the modifications. You can't argue that that will hurt performance in any way. Its just another trick to add to the list of **** we do to pull every possible tick of horsepower.
when i was looking at the cheapie mods for my rice cooker i ran into a bunch of this grounding ****, and when i finally talked to a guy who i trusted about his input he said that the hp idea and torque idea was a joke, but he said he did feel like it changed some of his throttle response, but that was it.
Thanks guys, I needed a good laugh tonight.
Make sure you use race muffler bearings and Type 7 (Pink) blinker fluid.
Don't let the sales guy talk you into Type 8, it's a waste of money and actually costs HP.
Make sure you use race muffler bearings and Type 7 (Pink) blinker fluid.
Don't let the sales guy talk you into Type 8, it's a waste of money and actually costs HP.
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From: Decatur, TN (N-W of Athens)
Is that 5hp dyno proven? Can you produce the graph? What about the dyno not being 100% accurate every single time you dyno it? What about wrapping the intake in some sort of heat reflecting material. Throttle body airfoil. Removing the stock air intake silencer. (donkey dick) Porting the MAF. De-screening the MAF. Relocating the IAT sensor. Insulating fuel lines. Gutting the cat.
Airfoil, which he also dynos, helps a it too, but that's common sense when dealing with air flow and turbulence. The donky dong removal has nothing to do with power gains, not that I've ever seen or heard. I'm not even going touch "wrapping the intake". That's the stupidest thing I've heard. Descreening the MAF is a proven waste of time and everyone here recommends against doing it, same with porting since the stock one will flow enough for around 500hp. the IAT is a sound mod, but it has factors that make it worth it or not. If you have a metal CAI that gets heat soaked, then yea relocating it wouldn't be a bad idea, but if you're on stock, or plastic CAI, then there's less of a point in doing it.
http://www.ws6.com/mod-8.htm (TB Coolant Bypass)
http://www.ws6.com/mod-4.htm (Air Foil)
http://www.ws6.com/mod-7.htm (AFPR since people say it's a pointless mod)
http://www.ws6.com/mod-14.htm (Electric water pump)
I partially agree with your statement, I know high rpm and moisture kills the opti. but a good clean grounded electrical system probably wouldn't hurt. stray voltage from an outside source is conducted in to the opti circuit when moisture is present- the path of least resistance to ground.
now... if the path that the electrical current is SUPPOSED to follow, is a much better (easier) path to follow, there would be less chance of stray voltage trying to find its way to ground via the opti circuitry when moisture is present- low-resistance wires, good plugs, no anti-seize on the threads, good block to chassis, and block to battery grounds, etc...
more than anything I agree with the conclusion that the "big 3" mod is probably not going to help a whole lot unless your electrical system is in bad shape. I did it to my truck and noticed a difference in performance... then again, the cable going from the alternator to the battery had corroded in half as well, on top of the power wire to the distribution block being corroded 4 inches down the cable for the battery terminal. so replacing the wire only brought it back up to par with what it was in '94, but it was definately an improvement.
now... if the path that the electrical current is SUPPOSED to follow, is a much better (easier) path to follow, there would be less chance of stray voltage trying to find its way to ground via the opti circuitry when moisture is present- low-resistance wires, good plugs, no anti-seize on the threads, good block to chassis, and block to battery grounds, etc...
more than anything I agree with the conclusion that the "big 3" mod is probably not going to help a whole lot unless your electrical system is in bad shape. I did it to my truck and noticed a difference in performance... then again, the cable going from the alternator to the battery had corroded in half as well, on top of the power wire to the distribution block being corroded 4 inches down the cable for the battery terminal. so replacing the wire only brought it back up to par with what it was in '94, but it was definately an improvement.
Moistures bad for them, over-reving, well 99% of ya'll out there cant over rev one.
What kills optis MOST of the time, is high secondary resistance. Worn out spark plugs with increased gap. Old plug wires with high resistance. These 2 things cause the high voltage to want to find the PATH OF LEAST RESISTANCE which usually is through the epoxy cap, from one copper trace to another. In extreme cases, it (the high voltage spark) will end up dancing around inside the distributor and zapping the actual opti module.
Keep your plugs changed fairly regularly, and your plug wires in good shape, and your opti will last a long time.
Replacing your battery cables with larger ones WILL NOT DO A DAMN THING IF YOUR ELECTRICAL SYSTEM DOESNT REQUIRE IT.
It wont cause your alternator to put out more volts or amps. It only supplies what the system needs at that time.
It wont make your coil have a higher output. The output of the coil is determined by the secondary resistance.
It wont cause your injectors to squirt more fuel. It wont cause your PCM to make calculations any faster.
I have seen a few instances that increasing wire size let fan motors run faster, and headlights burn brighter. But this was replacing the secondary system wires, not battery cables. And in the case of headlights, theres actually a relay kit made for Imp SSs just to cure dim headlight syndrome.
Thread Starter
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Joined: May 2005
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From: Cali & Nevada
wow you guys just keep going and going someone told me that there is gains from doing ground wires on parts of the motor there are like 4-5 places i was wondering if it cou,ld be true or not and if it was would it work on the lt1 motor not just the 350z you guys say its bs so fine get over it and get a life stop reply and talking crap like 7 pink blinker fluid and muffler bearings Ha-Ha-Ha funny this tread is over!
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 2,861
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From: Ringoes/Flemington, New Jersey
wow you guys just keep going and going someone told me that there is gains from doing ground wires on parts of the motor there are like 4-5 places i was wondering if it cou,ld be true or not and if it was would it work on the lt1 motor not just the 350z you guys say its bs so fine get over it and get a life stop reply and talking crap like 7 pink blinker fluid and muffler bearings Ha-Ha-Ha funny this tread is over!
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Joined: Jan 2005
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From: St. Augustine, FL
My thoughts on why they offer a wiring kit for any new electrical device is cause we're all driving 10+ year old cars that have probably seen some abuse... between age, heat stress, and just weathering they need to be replaced. Nothing like buying a new $800 fuel system and then have the pump crap out cause the wires broke.
In that sense, I agree that its not a bad idea to replace wires in the car that you discover have been aged severely due to whatever conditions. However, I dont believe that it will create any power gains. More of a placebo effect if anything.
In that sense, I agree that its not a bad idea to replace wires in the car that you discover have been aged severely due to whatever conditions. However, I dont believe that it will create any power gains. More of a placebo effect if anything.
lol i upgraded all of my grounds when i did my trunk mounted battery, the stock grounds are pretty junky, but as far as a horsepower increase, i dont know about that, but it does charge and crank like a bastard
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From: Decatur, TN (N-W of Athens)
The cranking I an understand, and expect. The charging I suppose would be a bit better too, but still I doubt any power gain.