4LE80 Swap Help
4LE80 Swap Help I've been told time and time again that a 4LE80 Tranny will swap in my Camaro. Well will it? I've searched on here forever and I can't find a thread about it, if anyone knows of one please give me link.
My car is 1996 LT1 Z-28 Camaro (OBD-II of course)
I know the LE has over drive and that's why I'd like to try it. I've never seen any kind of conversion kits or anything and I'll be honest with you I have no idea if it can be done. I'm brand new to the world of V-8's and rear wheel drive, any help would be apprecaited.
My car is 1996 LT1 Z-28 Camaro (OBD-II of course)
I know the LE has over drive and that's why I'd like to try it. I've never seen any kind of conversion kits or anything and I'll be honest with you I have no idea if it can be done. I'm brand new to the world of V-8's and rear wheel drive, any help would be apprecaited.
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The 4l80e will bolt in place to the motor of an lt. The only swap i i've seen was on an ls motor and he said the frame had to be notched to fit it. I've thought about doing it myself as i've gone though about 8 4l60e that have been built. But i dont wont a stand alone ecm for just a street car but i may do it one day. I know it wont work with the factory harness and was going to look into adapting it so the factory ecm would control it and have the speedo still work. The bolt pattern is the same untill the ls moduler style but it will still bolt together just missing one bolt unless it a later year trans. the 4l80e is bassicly a th400 w an od while the 4l60e is a weaker 700r4, and we all know how much stronger the th400 is.
Last edited by socal; Nov 29, 2007 at 06:01 PM.
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well the yoke is just that of a th400 i think and of couse a custom driveshaft would be needed as well as crossmember, and a standoff touqe arm but its a matter of fitting it into the trans tunnel and a way to control it.
We put a 4l80E in a friend of mines camaro, with no trouble. We thought we were going to have to beat out the tunnel, but it fit perfectly with no trouble. I am not sure about the bolt patterns lining up because he dealt with that, we just got it lifted up there and lined up. No beating on anything. We did have to take the driver side header loose though. It can be done because we did it! Then again, it is bolted up to a 6.0 L iron block.
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I was wanting to swap it cuz like earlier by "socal" is there very, very similar to a turbo 400 and have over drive.
I've looked at TCI Super Street Fighter Tranny's and that seems like way to much money and there only rated to hold up to 600 horse, my plans are to break that barrier with time and want to have a tranny that can hold up to that.
I've looked at TCI Super Street Fighter Tranny's and that seems like way to much money and there only rated to hold up to 600 horse, my plans are to break that barrier with time and want to have a tranny that can hold up to that.
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Verdad Gallardo I had a guy try to sell to me was from a 6.0 L pickup, but I want to make sure this can for fact be done without it being a real nightmare. I mean hey I understand things just don't always fall into place and don't expect everything to be perfect fit, but I just dont want to get in eye ball deep and then call it a failed idea.
Last edited by Prototype007; Nov 29, 2007 at 06:27 PM. Reason: Grammer
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keep in mind the input shafts are differant from the lt to the ls so the tans need to mach the motor its going behind and if your going to try to use the foctory ecm the trans pump needs to mach the one that came out of the car, pwm (pule with modulated) or not i think 96 and up cars are pwm. Also the convertor for an ls has a bigger piolet hub (the part that fits in the back of the crank) then the lt so an lt will fit a ls but not the other way.
unless your making over 800 hp then you need to keep the 60-e 80-e has a longer first gear and your et will suffer...
i along with several others here on the baords have a cpt tranny...i make near 600 hp and drive mine a lot..no problems...
most people say they know how to build them...but they dont know wat they are doing just throwing good parts at it...theres a science to assembeling one...which most fail at
i along with several others here on the baords have a cpt tranny...i make near 600 hp and drive mine a lot..no problems...
most people say they know how to build them...but they dont know wat they are doing just throwing good parts at it...theres a science to assembeling one...which most fail at
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Boys I appreciate ya'lls 2 cents on the subject and I will take a look at these "CPT Tranny's"
Thanks Again!
Oh yeah one more thing when you all say CPT do you mean Carolina Performance Tranny's?
Thanks Again!
Oh yeah one more thing when you all say CPT do you mean Carolina Performance Tranny's?
If you are going higher than about 550rwhp, then an 80E is a good idea. This board and especially the FI board is full of people that are on their 3rd or 4th 'built' 60E. All that money could have bought an 80E and a standalone controller and had money left over for a killer converter.
All you need is the right flexplate, converter, crossmember, driveshaft and a way to control the tranny. I use the TCI T-Com standalone behind a blown 383 SBC, and I love it. It's in a Malibu so I won't be much help on the F-body install, but on the FI board there are a bunch of guys running the 80E.
Call Hughes Performance and tell them what you are trying to do. Actually, you haven't told us much about your setup and why you want the 80E! That might help us help you.
Jim
All you need is the right flexplate, converter, crossmember, driveshaft and a way to control the tranny. I use the TCI T-Com standalone behind a blown 383 SBC, and I love it. It's in a Malibu so I won't be much help on the F-body install, but on the FI board there are a bunch of guys running the 80E.
Call Hughes Performance and tell them what you are trying to do. Actually, you haven't told us much about your setup and why you want the 80E! That might help us help you.
Jim
When I bought the car it had K&N Cold Air Intake, Flowmaster Exhaust, and then I put 4.10 gears in it and got a Hypertech Programmer.
My plans to eventually build 383, LE3 head & cam pack, supporting bolt on's, and gonna get brave and try 200 dual stage shot of spray or better.
I've got big plans and a lot of learning to do, so I'm sure my horsepower/torque goal will change with time. I'm aiming to break 500 hp/tq on the motor and 1st stage of spray.
My plans to eventually build 383, LE3 head & cam pack, supporting bolt on's, and gonna get brave and try 200 dual stage shot of spray or better.
I've got big plans and a lot of learning to do, so I'm sure my horsepower/torque goal will change with time. I'm aiming to break 500 hp/tq on the motor and 1st stage of spray.
If you're going big, and it sounds like you are - wisely - heading there slowly, then I agree, 80E and overbuild the driveshaft, rear and brakes. That way they'll be ready when you are. You'll save money in the long run if you always overbuild and understress. That's why I chose the Vigilante with a 5-disc lockup good to 1600HP. I'll never get there, but I shouldn't have any problems on the way, either.
Jim
My Site: http://home.mindspring.com/~jim_fisk/id1.html
Jim
My Site: http://home.mindspring.com/~jim_fisk/id1.html
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Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Chattanooga, TN.
Here you go:
http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/show...ighlight=4L80E
I had one in my 94 TA with a manual valvebody. You have to have an aftermarket controller if you want to keep it electronic. BMR even makes crossmembers for the swap.
http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/show...ighlight=4L80E
I had one in my 94 TA with a manual valvebody. You have to have an aftermarket controller if you want to keep it electronic. BMR even makes crossmembers for the swap.
Here you go:
http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/show...ighlight=4L80E
I had one in my 94 TA with a manual valvebody. You have to have an aftermarket controller if you want to keep it electronic. BMR even makes crossmembers for the swap.
http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/show...ighlight=4L80E
I had one in my 94 TA with a manual valvebody. You have to have an aftermarket controller if you want to keep it electronic. BMR even makes crossmembers for the swap.
Okay I got a stupid question for this previous post. If your have a manual valve body do I have to have an aftermarket controller in order to shift? Or does that affect where it goes from drive to over drive? If I can do without the controller I won't bother with it.
Last edited by Prototype007; Dec 1, 2007 at 03:05 PM. Reason: Forgot to add something
Staging Lane
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 92
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From: Chattanooga, TN.
With a manual valvebody, you have to shift yourself. It is in the gear you select--there is nothing automatic about it. It's a lot of fun actually. You just nail it and go through the gears without having the fear of missing a gear. I used a Quicksilver ratchet shifter. I put my 6 speed back in because I already had the engine out and the 3.89 gear was a little low for the auto. I don't take it to the strip that much anyway. I've still got the 4L80E so it may find its way back into the car someday.