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The T/A in my sig has a new alternator and a new battery. we had the alternator tested while it was in the car, and they said it was bad, so we took it out and they checked it by itself and it was perfect.. they said we have a short or some thing that is staying on and draining the battery cause if we leave it more that a couple hours between start ups it needs to be jumped but once you jump it shows the battery is taking a perfect charge... what the hell is wrong..
yeah... How did you test the alt on the car??? With a multimeter on it with the car running? If it tests bad take it back and demand a new one. But the gauge SHOULD read right..
If that ain't the problem then...
parasitic draw somewhere.... have fun with that one. lol
Last edited by Dragframe; Dec 22, 2007 at 06:04 PM.
they hooked some **** to the battery and said the charge is going up and down.. the alternator is still under warranty but when we just took it off it tested fine.. what the hell is going on..
Run the car and put a multimeter on the back post on the alt. If it isn't staying steady or charging at all tell them you want a new alt no matter what their stupid machine says. If its good then swapping you a new one is no big deal then...
The T/A in my sig has a new alternator and a new battery. we had the alternator tested while it was in the car, and they said it was bad, so we took it out and they checked it by itself and it was perfect.. they said we have a short or some thing that is staying on and draining the battery cause if we leave it more that a couple hours between start ups it needs to be jumped but once you jump it shows the battery is taking a perfect charge... what the hell is wrong..
Dunno if you already figured this one out... It sounds like you have a draw. These are tough to find, but doable. Start by looking at anything recently installed which draws any kind of power. Radio, alarm, etc... Then make sure all your lights are turning off. I had plenty of customers who left their dome light on and couldn't figure it out.
If all else fails, run a light of some sort in series with your negative battery cable. If the light comes on you have draw, when it goes off, no draw.
With the ignition off, disconnect the negative cable from the battery and connect a 12 volt test light between the negative terminal of the battery and the negative cable. If the test light is on (even a very dim glow of the bulb), there is a parasitic draw on the battery. Remove and install the fuses and you should at some point see the bulb go out. You will then have to trace the different compenents that are fed off that circuit in order to isolate what is actually running the battery down. As mentioned above make sure the dome light has not been left on, as well as check any aftermarket parts that have been instaled such as stereo equipment first as these seem to be the culprit many times.
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