building 383
time for the rebuild. This is my first rebuild and have done some searching, now looking for other members experiences with what worked well for them. Also have a couple of questions regarding machine work.
GOAL IS FOR A N/A DAILY DRIVER WITH 400 RWHP.
-What all needs to be done in addition to boring, honing the block? How much am I looking to spend on that alone.
going with forged internals. forged eagle crank, 6" forged H-beam Rods. Wiseco Pistons. (don't know much about the difference in pistons, what would be the best route?)
we have the cc306 cam, .230/.244 duration, .540/.560 lift, 112 LSA. currently we have stock heads that have been ported a few years ago, was told by AFR that they will support up to 450hp with the ported specs. However, Lloyd Elliott has a site and was looking at a few h/c packages he has on this site here.. http://www.eportworks.com/lt1.html Was interested in the LE2 setup.
will be getting a 58mm throttle body, 373 gears as well as 30lb injectors. already have a 3400 torque converter with a rebuilt 4L60E tranny. also have hooker super comp LT's. no cats.
Is $5k enough money for this rebuild? or are we looking at closer to 6-7k? Already have a new stock LT1 block. Just waiting for the machine shop.
thanks guys, just trying to put a budget together and build this thing right the first time. If there is anything I am missing as far as parts we will need, please let me know.
Last edited by REDHOtTransAM; Feb 23, 2008 at 12:57 PM. Reason: update on build
just because somebody doesn't have a 383 in their sig, doesn't mean they have never had one before. I wont be judging anybody and will take advice from all members.
I wont be doing the work myself this time around unfortunately. Carolina Speed Shop is who will be doing the work.
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Cam is a poor choice.
I would go elsewhere for the heads too.
Carolina Speed Shop is located in Conway, SC. About 20 minutes South of Myrtle Beach. I might be getting orders to Quantico, VA but it's all up in the air. Most likely not going to be moving to North Carolina though (although I'd love to be back in the Carolina's again)
Cam is a poor choice.
I would go elsewhere for the heads too.
that's the first time I have heard anybody say that is a poor cam choice. I have hears good things about the cam, and have been happy with it over the past year we gone with it. Sounds good, pulls great, tuned well. I will do some research on Callies. I have always thought Wiseco pistons are better quality than Mahle.
Callies is some pretty high end stuff this stuff is their "budget" line.
Wisco is a good piston but for say under 200 shot of nitrous the Mahle will do just as well. Coated and with a different ring package than most others run.
Put it this way the stock pistons which hold up so well are Mahle Hypereutectic, imagine what their forged stuff is like.\
The cam gets a lot of praise, but that does not mean it is good, just means people don't know any better.
In NC Carolina Auto Masters is the place I would talk too, he does my tuning by mailorder, he will also steer you towards a topend from the same guys I use.
Carolina Speed Shop is located in Conway, SC. About 20 minutes South of Myrtle Beach. I might be getting orders to Quantico, VA but it's all up in the air. Most likely not going to be moving to North Carolina though (although I'd love to be back in the Carolina's again)
There wont be any nitrous used on the motor.
I get my cars tuned at CAM Jeff Creach does an exelent job. On the buget aspect of your build remeber this heads are very important to your build I would rather see a bad *** set of heads on a stock rebuilt short block w/ forged pistons than a 383 with shitty heads.
could you PM me your setup and how much it cost by any chance? Looks like you have good results.
over 4100 lbs in race trim with me.
mechanical WP
ported stock castings
cam is just mid 220s intake and lift is under .570 with 1.6s
ported stock intake
just a 3400 stall with a 4 year old 4L60E
3.73s
stock opti base
run it through mufflers
1 5/8" headers
roughly 30lbs injectors(I went a little odd here and would not do it again)
don't own skinnies for the front
stock shortblock
stiff handling shocks all around
converter is setup to launch more than MPH from what I see I am lossing mph too it but it ETs well
and I put about 8K miles a year on it, drives so easy the first time the wife ever made a real pass down the track she ran within .1 of what I did that day. Before that was a couple half passes with me in the car so we had to stay slower than 13.5.
Now imagine a car 400lbs lighter.
You want to run deep into the 11s there is no need for an expensive shortblock though it may help long term reliability, absolutely no need for aftermarket heads, most AFR believers will even tell you their CNC work blows.
Should be noted too that my heads are obsolete as far as the porter is concerned, he made some tweaks with what he learned over the years and is making even more power out of GM castings these days.
Hot in gear idle is just 825rpms and only great weather pushes it up around 6500rpms otherwise it completes the shifts before that.
I am not a racer either, before with a mild cam I only ever managed 13.2 out of it in great weather.
Look at some of the cars on this board. Some do a lot with very little and some do very little with a lot. It's mostly because they try to copy some else's **** and change a few things here and there to fit there budget or overall goals. That don't work.



