LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

building 383

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Old Jan 6, 2008 | 07:24 AM
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Default building 383

EDIT: skip to post #57 for update on what build we decided to go with!! Don't waste your time reading the first 5X posts!













time for the rebuild. This is my first rebuild and have done some searching, now looking for other members experiences with what worked well for them. Also have a couple of questions regarding machine work.
GOAL IS FOR A N/A DAILY DRIVER WITH 400 RWHP.

-What all needs to be done in addition to boring, honing the block? How much am I looking to spend on that alone.

going with forged internals. forged eagle crank, 6" forged H-beam Rods. Wiseco Pistons. (don't know much about the difference in pistons, what would be the best route?)

we have the cc306 cam, .230/.244 duration, .540/.560 lift, 112 LSA. currently we have stock heads that have been ported a few years ago, was told by AFR that they will support up to 450hp with the ported specs. However, Lloyd Elliott has a site and was looking at a few h/c packages he has on this site here.. http://www.eportworks.com/lt1.html Was interested in the LE2 setup.

will be getting a 58mm throttle body, 373 gears as well as 30lb injectors. already have a 3400 torque converter with a rebuilt 4L60E tranny. also have hooker super comp LT's. no cats.

Is $5k enough money for this rebuild? or are we looking at closer to 6-7k? Already have a new stock LT1 block. Just waiting for the machine shop.

thanks guys, just trying to put a budget together and build this thing right the first time. If there is anything I am missing as far as parts we will need, please let me know.

Last edited by REDHOtTransAM; Feb 23, 2008 at 12:57 PM. Reason: update on build
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Old Jan 6, 2008 | 08:07 AM
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You are planning on using almost all mediocre at best parts. and could take some BIG steps up in quality for little more money.
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Old Jan 6, 2008 | 08:26 AM
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any recommendations?
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Old Jan 6, 2008 | 08:27 AM
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If you are putting the engine together yourself there is one thing you are going to need to know. You are going to have to grind the block to make room for that extra stroke, especially with eagle rods.
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Old Jan 6, 2008 | 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by REDHOtTransAM
any recommendations?
Dont take 383 advice from someone that doesn't have one.
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Old Jan 6, 2008 | 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by IH8FORD
Dont take 383 advice from someone that doesn't have one.

just because somebody doesn't have a 383 in their sig, doesn't mean they have never had one before. I wont be judging anybody and will take advice from all members.

I wont be doing the work myself this time around unfortunately. Carolina Speed Shop is who will be doing the work.
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Old Jan 6, 2008 | 08:47 AM
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Just saying a CC306 and stock ported heads by someone that knows what they are doing is anything but mediocre .It what I have and my cars runs real well.
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Old Jan 6, 2008 | 08:48 AM
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Are you coming to North carolina?
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Old Jan 6, 2008 | 08:51 AM
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Originally Posted by REDHOtTransAM
any recommendations?
Compstar Speedpack imported rod and crank forgings machined by Callies, MUCH MUCH better quality and quality control than Eagle, with has Mahle pistons. Price is competitive with Eagle forged kits once you consider completeness and rebalancing the Eagle because their balance will be off. The speedpacks are balanced by Callies.

Cam is a poor choice.

I would go elsewhere for the heads too.
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Old Jan 6, 2008 | 08:53 AM
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You are running that same setup?? If we don't have to upgrade in heads that would help and money saved can go elsewhere on the car.

Carolina Speed Shop is located in Conway, SC. About 20 minutes South of Myrtle Beach. I might be getting orders to Quantico, VA but it's all up in the air. Most likely not going to be moving to North Carolina though (although I'd love to be back in the Carolina's again)
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Old Jan 6, 2008 | 08:58 AM
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Originally Posted by 96capricemgr
Compstar Speedpack imported rod and crank forgings machined by Callies, MUCH MUCH better quality and quality control than Eagle, with has Mahle pistons. Price is competitive with Eagle forged kits once you consider completeness and rebalancing the Eagle because their balance will be off. The speedpacks are balanced by Callies.

Cam is a poor choice.

I would go elsewhere for the heads too.

that's the first time I have heard anybody say that is a poor cam choice. I have hears good things about the cam, and have been happy with it over the past year we gone with it. Sounds good, pulls great, tuned well. I will do some research on Callies. I have always thought Wiseco pistons are better quality than Mahle.
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Old Jan 6, 2008 | 09:05 AM
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I have a stock shortblock and make more power than a lot of stokers, power is in the topend, ported heads are the most important part of the build.
Callies is some pretty high end stuff this stuff is their "budget" line.
Wisco is a good piston but for say under 200 shot of nitrous the Mahle will do just as well. Coated and with a different ring package than most others run.

Put it this way the stock pistons which hold up so well are Mahle Hypereutectic, imagine what their forged stuff is like.\

The cam gets a lot of praise, but that does not mean it is good, just means people don't know any better.

In NC Carolina Auto Masters is the place I would talk too, he does my tuning by mailorder, he will also steer you towards a topend from the same guys I use.
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Old Jan 6, 2008 | 09:06 AM
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Originally Posted by REDHOtTransAM
You are running that same setup?? If we don't have to upgrade in heads that would help and money saved can go elsewhere on the car.

Carolina Speed Shop is located in Conway, SC. About 20 minutes South of Myrtle Beach. I might be getting orders to Quantico, VA but it's all up in the air. Most likely not going to be moving to North Carolina though (although I'd love to be back in the Carolina's again)
The only problem with getting the stock heads ported right is you will pay big for it. I have about 1200 in port work. That was about 7 years ago there wasn't a whole lot of options for me then. Which is why I have the CC306 cam ,when I built the motor it was the ****. I would probally go with a custom gring cam and some AFR heads. You will end up saving some money in the long run Buying a good after market head that has already been CNC ported and complete w/ valves and springs.As for as the Eagle rotating assembly I have never had any problems with them and have used them in several builds.The comp star stuff may be a better deal for the money I have never used it before or know anyone who has personaly.
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Old Jan 6, 2008 | 09:13 AM
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I am already locked into CSS for the build. The owner, Kyle, is a good friend of mine. I know him, trust him, and I am always more than happy to send business his way.

There wont be any nitrous used on the motor.
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Old Jan 6, 2008 | 09:13 AM
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In NC Carolina Auto Masters is the place I would talk too, he does my tuning by mailorder, he will also steer you towards a topend from the same guys I use.[/QUOTE]

I get my cars tuned at CAM Jeff Creach does an exelent job. On the buget aspect of your build remeber this heads are very important to your build I would rather see a bad *** set of heads on a stock rebuilt short block w/ forged pistons than a 383 with shitty heads.
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Old Jan 6, 2008 | 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by IH8FORD
In NC Carolina Auto Masters is the place I would talk too, he does my tuning by mailorder, he will also steer you towards a topend from the same guys I use.
I get my cars tuned at CAM Jeff Creach does an exelent job. On the buget aspect of your build remeber this heads are very important to your build I would rather see a bad *** set of heads on a stock rebuilt short block w/ forged pistons than a 383 with shitty heads.[/QUOTE]


could you PM me your setup and how much it cost by any chance? Looks like you have good results.
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Old Jan 6, 2008 | 10:01 AM
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Iv'e done a few motors now and would tell you to think about running bigger injectors than 30lbs. Later if you decide you want to go faster you will need to upgrade again. I would consider running 42 or mabye 48's then if you spray the car you good. Also a good tuner can make you car run fine with bigger injectors. I also think there are much better cam choices out there ask your head porter.
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Old Jan 6, 2008 | 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by BADHAWK51
Iv'e done a few motors now and would tell you to think about running bigger injectors than 30lbs. Later if you decide you want to go faster you will need to upgrade again. I would consider running 42 or mabye 48's then if you spray the car you good. Also a good tuner can make you car run fine with bigger injectors. I also think there are much better cam choices out there ask your head porter.
will look into bigger injectors, thanks. I know there are plenty of better cams out there and am not throwing out the idea. It is just conveniant for right now that we already have a solid camshaft that can be used. Not throwing out the option of getting a bigger cam though by any means.
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Old Jan 6, 2008 | 10:35 AM
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Look what my car runs with all the things done "wrong"
over 4100 lbs in race trim with me.
mechanical WP
ported stock castings
cam is just mid 220s intake and lift is under .570 with 1.6s
ported stock intake
just a 3400 stall with a 4 year old 4L60E
3.73s
stock opti base
run it through mufflers
1 5/8" headers
roughly 30lbs injectors(I went a little odd here and would not do it again)
don't own skinnies for the front
stock shortblock
stiff handling shocks all around
converter is setup to launch more than MPH from what I see I am lossing mph too it but it ETs well
and I put about 8K miles a year on it, drives so easy the first time the wife ever made a real pass down the track she ran within .1 of what I did that day. Before that was a couple half passes with me in the car so we had to stay slower than 13.5.

Now imagine a car 400lbs lighter.

You want to run deep into the 11s there is no need for an expensive shortblock though it may help long term reliability, absolutely no need for aftermarket heads, most AFR believers will even tell you their CNC work blows.

Should be noted too that my heads are obsolete as far as the porter is concerned, he made some tweaks with what he learned over the years and is making even more power out of GM castings these days.

Hot in gear idle is just 825rpms and only great weather pushes it up around 6500rpms otherwise it completes the shifts before that.

I am not a racer either, before with a mild cam I only ever managed 13.2 out of it in great weather.
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Old Jan 6, 2008 | 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by REDHOtTransAM
I wont be judging anybody and will take advice from all members.
Uh, that's not always the best idea. You need to try to be smart about this ****. Some people don't know their **** from a whole in the ground.

Look at some of the cars on this board. Some do a lot with very little and some do very little with a lot. It's mostly because they try to copy some else's **** and change a few things here and there to fit there budget or overall goals. That don't work.
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