96formulabird

hey i have a 96 formula bird with the lt-1. i was wondering if any one could tell me what the best brand of cam would be for my car. also what lift and duration setup i need for the new cam. oh yeh its a street car.

projekt70chevelle

iTrader: (4)

Whoa! Pretty broad question there. It all depends on what your future plans are for your car. I would highly suggest a search. There are many threads about various cams that vary from small to big (cc305, hotcam, cc503, gm847, cc306, le1-3, and many others). Many people will tell you to go custom because it is the best way to obtain the features you want out of it. Take a look at this thread that Stealthformula started.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-modifications/836200-stock-head-cam-cam-swap-guide.html

96formulabird

ok i want it to still remain drivable any time i want to drive it. i plan on doing headers, y- pipe, gears (probably 3.73), a programmer, the rest is planned to be suspension parts( springs, sub frame connectors, shocks, strut tower brace, etc...). i already have magnaflow cat-back, moroso cold air kit, B&M electronic shift improver, and stock tranny rebuilt. i would still like it to be ok if i get stuck in traffic or something.

LT1MAN

iTrader: (6)

what do you consider driveable? i see all the time guys want a cam in there car so they can make there car sound a little lumpy then 2 months later they have their hotcam up for sale because they're only making 300rwhp

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

"programmers" like Hypertech are garbage.
The B&M shift improver is a $.89 resistor in a plastic box with a switch, again garbage.

You need to be thinking headers, stall and gears before a cam. When you do a cam error on the small side rather than big, better to be left wanting more power than not liking the manners of a cam that is too big.

projekt70chevelle

iTrader: (4)

Check out the link i posted, lots of good info in there along with the parts needed to install the cams. Unless you get something huge and dont get a decent tune, theres really no reason why you can drive in stop and go traffic (some are just worse than others).

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

LT4 Hotcam
Lloyd/Bret Grind 1, 1.5, or myabe ver. 2
cc305
cc503
I would think a cc306 is at the max given the criteria. (A tune will be needed)

All these cams will make power, what you like can and probably will be influenced by other peoples opinions.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

The link in the first reply definetely deserves your time.

96formulabird

ok thanks everyone. maybe i will hold off on the cam for now. i already have the B&M electronic shift improver and if any one is looking for a cheap easy install to make your tranny shift better its worth it. it def. makes the shifts a lot harder and stronger, and faster. so its worth it i think. yeh im looking at pace setter long tubes, and pc y- pipe too. does any one know a better tuner than hypertech, because i know that hypertech is not a good tuner.

dochall22

iTrader: (6)

Trex

Stock cam, exhaust --- yeah right!



For Sale btw - $13,500

StealthFormula

iTrader: (35)

Thanks chevelle for posting that
As for a better tuner DO NOT buy a handheld tuner. Wait until you do all the bolt-ons and get a mail order tune from pcmforless, madtuner etc. or just wait until you do all the bolt-ons and cam and have it dyno tuned. Handheld programmers are expensive pieces of garbage. As for the cam, get all supporting mods first, full exhaust, gears, stall, suspension etc. etc. before you rip into the motor. Without a stall it wont drive good and without suspension you wont go anywhere so thats the first focus. When your ready for a cam check out that the link projekt70chevelle posted will help you out alot.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

On the B&M thing all it is doing is tricking the pcm into thinking line pressure is lower than it really is so the pcm raises it at all points.
You can accomplish the same thing with pcm tuning only scale it so that very low speed operation stays mild.

Far as tuning you can get an editor that you use through a home computer or laptop and learn to do it yourself for the OBD2, you can trust a professional, or you can consider an OBD1 swap and cheaper self tuning, this is a hassle if you have emissions testing though.

Tunercat has OBD1 and OBD2 options I find it unfortunate that they sold the OBD2 to JET but the right guy developed it so hopefully it is as good as the OBD1 version.

LT1 Edit I do not like because they lock it to one VIN meaning if your pcm locks up and you need to go to a spare you have a problem. Tunercat's support and pricing are much better too. Only plus I will give LT1 Edit is it is prettier.