383 Vs 355
01-21-2008, 12:01 PM
#61
i still get a kick outta you guys fretting over gas mileage in these fuel injected cars. guess i'm still stuck in carburator world. any way, a larger engine will always be more streetable then a smaller engine given the horsepower is the same, since the larger will make the horsepower at lower rpm. not to mention the torque (the fun part) will be lower in the rpm range as well. the trade off in mileage between a 355, 358, 370, 383, 388 will be almost negligable given a proper tune. not to mention, YOU ARE FUEL INJECTED! i still giggle at my mileage in my '97 M6 T/A compared to my 462cubed, 3200stalled '65 Pontiac LeMans. sorry, i guess gas mileage is realitive.
01-21-2008, 12:07 PM
#62
CC306,Hotcam blah blah the same 4 cams come up in every singel damn thread, you know why LT1s dont make LS1 power? Aside from the fact its a better motor LT1 guys are STUCK ON THE SAME SETUP and just play copy cat....
Why is it the custom cam only guys are going fast then some of the 383 JUNK on this forum? Because there cars are setup right..
Hell there are some 383s on here, with little pee wee cams that are setup right, to there setup going 11s all day..
If your broke either do a 355, or just do a stock rebuild and Up the compression, then get a very nice small cam for the setup with a almost stock idle and mild manors so you can still get good MPG.....
And please get the thing tuned, nothing is going to run like it should without a tune
Everyone wants a race car, then when they have to drive it every day then they dont want it anymore...
01-21-2008, 12:35 PM
#64
01-21-2008, 02:57 PM
#65
i think i am going to do a lt4 hotcam kit but not the cam.
The kit is engineered to work together and anything bigger than that cam and those springs are toast. So basically if you plan on doing what you posted above then the only thing you are buying the kit for would be for the roller rockers!
The hotcam kit itself is not a bad way to go for the budget. Dollar for dollar and performance and reliability it is even cheaper than nitrous. YES I SAID IT!
You can flame on that kit all you want but a fact is a fact. For @ $500 dollars you get the kit and add up to 100 rwhp depending on mods. It is there anytime you press the right pedal and you can drive it anywhere all day long. To get equivalent results with N20 YOU HAVE TO RUN A 150 KIT WHICH COSTS MORE AND HAS TO BE REFILLED AND ONLY RUNS THAT WHEN THE BOTTLE IS MORE THAN 50% FULL. Like I said dollar per dollar it is cheaper. I am not saying that there aren't any better cams or setups out there, but in the same budget range you will find nothing. The HCK will put your car into the 12's all day long, take you to get your groceries and still give you a pretty decent mpg.It is also the easiest install available for someone who is looking to mod and do the work themselves.
01-21-2008, 06:45 PM
#67
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Is there a 355 kit that will give me 500hp and also cheap. Plz help me out i know that i do want to do a 355. im just kind of stuck with what to get that is under 3,000.
01-21-2008, 08:58 PM
#71
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pullies, electric water pump, intake was mildly self ported, the new injectors plus the new tune.. and the old tune was not fine... the previous owner himself told me it wasnt the best tune.. it was just to get the car running after the rebuild/hotcam swap
01-21-2008, 10:31 PM
#72
You are SERIOUSLY pointed in the wrong direction!
The kit is engineered to work together and anything bigger than that cam and those springs are toast. So basically if you plan on doing what you posted above then the only thing you are buying the kit for would be for the roller rockers!
The hotcam kit itself is not a bad way to go for the budget. Dollar for dollar and performance and reliability it is even cheaper than nitrous. YES I SAID IT!
You can flame on that kit all you want but a fact is a fact. For @ $500 dollars you get the kit and add up to 100 rwhp depending on mods. It is there anytime you press the right pedal and you can drive it anywhere all day long. To get equivalent results with N20 YOU HAVE TO RUN A 150 KIT WHICH COSTS MORE AND HAS TO BE REFILLED AND ONLY RUNS THAT WHEN THE BOTTLE IS MORE THAN 50% FULL. Like I said dollar per dollar it is cheaper. I am not saying that there aren't any better cams or setups out there, but in the same budget range you will find nothing. The HCK will put your car into the 12's all day long, take you to get your groceries and still give you a pretty decent mpg.It is also the easiest install available for someone who is looking to mod and do the work themselves.
The kit is engineered to work together and anything bigger than that cam and those springs are toast. So basically if you plan on doing what you posted above then the only thing you are buying the kit for would be for the roller rockers!
The hotcam kit itself is not a bad way to go for the budget. Dollar for dollar and performance and reliability it is even cheaper than nitrous. YES I SAID IT!
You can flame on that kit all you want but a fact is a fact. For @ $500 dollars you get the kit and add up to 100 rwhp depending on mods. It is there anytime you press the right pedal and you can drive it anywhere all day long. To get equivalent results with N20 YOU HAVE TO RUN A 150 KIT WHICH COSTS MORE AND HAS TO BE REFILLED AND ONLY RUNS THAT WHEN THE BOTTLE IS MORE THAN 50% FULL. Like I said dollar per dollar it is cheaper. I am not saying that there aren't any better cams or setups out there, but in the same budget range you will find nothing. The HCK will put your car into the 12's all day long, take you to get your groceries and still give you a pretty decent mpg.It is also the easiest install available for someone who is looking to mod and do the work themselves.
Maybe in 2000, there are alot of choices out there now do not limit your selfs
01-21-2008, 10:33 PM
#73
Um no.................................Were did you get this idea from?
Buy a good head n cam and make over 400whp, and please research things
01-21-2008, 10:34 PM
#74
You will be shocked at some performance shops not being able to give out a decent tune but think they are hot ****
01-22-2008, 02:17 AM
#75
Maybe in 2000, there are alot of choices out there now do not limit your selfs
Those choices include many camshaft designs all of which require a new spring, which in turn requires machine work to get the proper install heigth.
Then it would be best to run an NSA rocker vs. and SA rocker, but that would require guides and hardened pushrods.
The maximum you could see on a stock head non ported (remembering the HCK doesn't need a port job) you could achieve with ANY of those camshafts and springs would be a whopping 30 RWHP over the HCK and that to me doesn't justfy the extra bux.
So add it all up machine work, NSA rockers, springs, locks, retainers, locators andcamshaft and you have quite a bit more than what the HCK costs and not a whole lot more than what it produced
My point is not that the HCK is the greatest thing ever invented for the LT1. It is that it IS a very economical option for those aspiring to merely pep up their performance and still have a decent dd or cruiser. It is limited to itself, but will also improve with bolt on modifications and yes even some head work. However I am not advocating that if you are to go so far as to have your heads done to hold yourself back with the HCK.
I also understand that the smaller 227, and LPE grinds fit into the same category, but again the costs of springs put them into the same category as going bigger. Not to mention that when you take all of those cams 227,211,219 and compare them to the HCK with bolt ons they start losing their characterisitics by the time you introduce exhaust and intake (ie tb and cai).
It is what it is, and it has a proven history to produce for the price thats all I am saying. I think that it can and should be appreciated, even though newer technology has surpassed it, it holds its own for the budget orientated.
01-22-2008, 03:47 AM
#76
Using a stock crank vs a forged crank(383) and also the extra maching in clearancing adds up to be a big difference, and the stock crank is PLENTY strong.
Your not going to hit 400+ rwhp.
As for the topic starter, do you have $3,000 for just the PARTS or for parts and labor? I suggest you first find someone or a shop close to you that knows what they are doing!
What happened to the 383? Need more details and a list of what all mods you already have(bolt ons/etc), then we can help you more.
My honest suggestion from what information I've gathered is a budget setup, stock shortblock low mileage(50,000 or less...or just put new bearings in it) matched with a le1 heads/cam setup. This will give you a nice solid setup that will make enough power to go low 12's or high 11's(setup properly), drive great, and should be reliable.
As for the topic starter, do you have $3,000 for just the PARTS or for parts and labor? I suggest you first find someone or a shop close to you that knows what they are doing!
What happened to the 383? Need more details and a list of what all mods you already have(bolt ons/etc), then we can help you more.
My honest suggestion from what information I've gathered is a budget setup, stock shortblock low mileage(50,000 or less...or just put new bearings in it) matched with a le1 heads/cam setup. This will give you a nice solid setup that will make enough power to go low 12's or high 11's(setup properly), drive great, and should be reliable.
01-22-2008, 08:46 AM
#78
Edit: here is where you said what I am referring to..
heads plus hot cam plus stalled auto does NOT equal 400rwhp
Last edited by skinnies; 01-22-2008 at 08:52 AM.
