383 Vs 355
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On The Tree
Joined: Sep 2007
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From: HAYS, KANSAS
383 Vs 355 Ok whats better a 383 or a 355 for street use. my freinds say 355 because u get better gas milage. So i kinda want some info cause im thinking about building a motor. And also whats cheaper.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Sep 2007
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From: HAYS, KANSAS
ok but is it cheaper than a 355 and if it is then can you send me some cheap 383 stroker kit. see my 383 stroker motor when to **** my cam in it is a cc306 and it fucked up the cylinder walls.
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Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 115
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From: HAYS, KANSAS
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...t=nal-12480002
http://www.xhpsolutions.com/catalog/...8951400bac6c13
this is what im thinking of getting.
http://www.xhpsolutions.com/catalog/...8951400bac6c13
this is what im thinking of getting.
Had I done more homework I would have built a 383 when I did my engine. After I had it installed I learned all I lacked was a different part # rods (same price) and a new crank ($300 +/-). So the price of both are pretty close. If you just want a budget rebuild go 355, if you want to race I'd say go 383. I would say figure out what size engine you want and what direction you want to go with the car, then start finding combos (cam, valve train, etc.) Just my .02, it's you're car!
Horsepower and Gas Mileage ?? It kills me when people ask me how miles per gallon I get with my set up, 383 LT4, Forced Inducted, 648 RWHP/612 TQ. Mileage?? Who Cares..Though don't get me wrong, you can have performance and mileage also, but be realistic...
A 355 done right can be wicked and make good torque, problem is so few people do them right.
I know of a 355 that makes 385rwtq by 3600rpms and 418rwtq at peak up around 5000rpms, crossed 400rwhp at 5000rpms on a way to a peak of 480rwhp staying below 6900rpms, guy recently posted he found a little more power too. This is not your average setup, the guy listened to those who genuinely knew how to do things rather than buying into all the theorists.
I know of a 355 that makes 385rwtq by 3600rpms and 418rwtq at peak up around 5000rpms, crossed 400rwhp at 5000rpms on a way to a peak of 480rwhp staying below 6900rpms, guy recently posted he found a little more power too. This is not your average setup, the guy listened to those who genuinely knew how to do things rather than buying into all the theorists.
Biggest thing would be the ability to reliably spin higher. Beyond that I have seen some articles claim a 5% gain from getting quench right, you can gain compression for power and driveability and the overbore will allow the heads to breath slightly better. The guys with 355s will often claim it does nothing for power but that is just because they want to compare to stock shortblock cars. They spent that money for a reason.
There was a time when I thought why would anyone bother with a 355 but as I learn more I understand there are benefits. There was also a time when I wanted to do a 383 with stock heads/stall/gears, luckily I lacked the funds to actually follow through and make that mistake.
There was a time when I thought why would anyone bother with a 355 but as I learn more I understand there are benefits. There was also a time when I wanted to do a 383 with stock heads/stall/gears, luckily I lacked the funds to actually follow through and make that mistake.
Staging Lane
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 80
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From: St. Charles, IL
As far as your question, what is better for "street use" really doesn't pertain as there have been thousands of engine builds using both these combinations for street driven cars and both work well. You need to have a goal in mind regarding what you you ultimately want from your car and just as important, you need to have a budget. If it is economy you are after, then sell the car or install the V-6 motor as you can't be too concerned about fuel economy with an LT-1 car. Also, there is no measurable difference between the milage you would get with a 355ci motor as apposed to a 383ci motor. The difference betweena 355 and a 383 is the fact that the 355 uses a stock crank stroke of 3.48" and a 383 uses an increased crank stroke of 3.75". So depending on the condition of your crank and the horsepower you want to make, the choice of a 355 may be notably less expensive. In other words, if you choose the 355 and are not looking for extream H.P. numbers, you can reuse your stock crank and rods and will then only need to purchase 4.030" oversized pistons. Hope this helps to answer some of your questions.