Looks like it's really coming along. Weight reduction may be the best mod you can do.

 

"I hope not. I'm going to check out what I can do to them today. Such as if I stick the air gun in there where's all that crap going?"

Its going to go right in your face! Ask me how I know.

 

Yeah, it's finally at the point where there's not much else that I can take apart. . I plan on leaving the bottom end, transmission, and rear alone for right now. I only have a few more things to do, money to collect, and then the car is going back together.

I absolutely agree on the weight removal thing. That's the largest aspect of making this car perform better.

Haha, I noticed that today. I've done that plenty of times too. The worst was when I was cleaning my Formula off after it sitting for a year. There was all sorts of dirt stuck in the little push pins around the cowling. I stuck the air gun in there thinking it was a hole that went all the way through the cowl and all that crap came flying right into my face and mouth.

 

I actually got quite a bit done today even though I got down there a lot later than I planned. It's getting hard to move all of this stuff around as I'm running out of storage space in my 95.

Last night I threw my pulley puller in my car and broke it out today first thing. Removing the power steering pulley isn't much fun when the pump isn't attached to anything, but I got it off. Here's a picture of it and a good before picture of how bad the pulley looked.


Once I got it off I hucked it and an old SBC Edelbrock intake manifold I'm selling in the sand blaster to clean them off. Here's how much better the pulley looks:


Before I sand blasted everything I moved the parts washer, plugged it in, and turned the heater on. I gave it an hour to heat the water up. During which time I went to the post office and sand blasted those two parts clean.

I then put my intake manifold, power steering pulley, accessory bracket, and AC canister holder in the parts washer to get them 100% grease free. Here they are fresh out of the cleaner:

You can see the dirty water sitting on the intake manifold.

While that stuff was in the cleaner I looked around the shop for something the right size to tap the water pump with. I found a tap set that had a 1/4 -20 tap in it that was the perfect size. Before I tapped it Doug told me I should make sure that I could find a fitting in the right size. I went to ACE Hardware and Napa, but the smallest thing each of them had was an 1.8th inch pipe thread which was way too big.

I came back to the shop slightly annoyed at again wasting time trying to find parts in Green Cove Spings. When I got back I asked Doug if he had any ideas. We started bouncing ideas off of each other and he came up with a good thought. He went out back and returned with a piece of 1/4 inch brake hose with fittings on it. I was thinking I could tap the hole the same size as the fitting and screw them in there. That was a little too much work though and we decided to cut the flare off and drill the hole out. We used a 1/4 inch drill bit for a while to get the tube in there. After that we used a slightly smaller 15/64 drill bit to tape the hole. We then just pushed the brake line in and hit it lightly a few times and BAM:


Don't think that is a loose fit either. I picked it up by the brake line and it supported the weight of the water pump. I plan on painting the pump tonight. When it comes time to reinstall the water pump I'm going to put some silicon sealant on the end of the hose and cutting it shorter. I'll then stick a piece of rubber hose on there to route it away from the Opti and be done with it.

Once that was finished I pulled everything out of the parts washer and put them back in my car. During which time I remembered that my friend who is getting his car painted is having his antena hole welded shut. It was sitting on the ground and I glanced at it. Here it is in comparison to the one off of my 93:

One off of his 2000 (left) versus the one off of my 93 (right). The 2000 one has a nice lip on it that will hold it on there even if there isn't an antena. That's exactly what I need as mine right now is just sitting on the car to prevent rain from getting in there. I'm going to melt some rubber in the 2000 one and use it to completely plug my antena area off.

The last thing I did was very spur of the moment. I though we were all leaving, but Jason told me he had to wait for a customer to come pick up a car. He then showed me how to remove springs from the heads. I then whacked them out really quickly with a socket and hammer.


I then snapped a real quick picture of the flawed steam vent bolts. The two reasons they are flawed is that the head of the bolt is extremely short and that the between the threads and head is tapered. When I was trying to remove them in such a tight space that even with a good 15mm 6 point socket I couldn't get a straight angle on them. The short head and taper then caused the socket or wrench to slid off and strip the bolt.

AKA screw those things.

I plan on painting my intake manifold, water pump, accessory bracket, AC canister holder, and brake booster tonight. Tomorrow, I am going to finish dissasembling my heads and put them in the parts washer. I still can't find those Opti screws and seals. I might also work on painting the engine bay.

 

I started painting things last night and it's going to take a lot longer than I anticipated. I realized that I didn't have any 320 grit sand paper to prep everything with so I made some calls around and ended up going to Wal-Mart around 11:30. I scuffed everything up and started spraying primer.

Everything I'm painting with is just Dupli Color primer, engine enamel, and clear enamel. I got all of it at Advanced Discount Auto. I managed to get the accessory bracket primered, and put two coats of black on both the AC canister holder and pulley.


Here's two pictures of my garage right now. It looks like I stuck a piece of Dynamite in an Fbody and lit it:


I really need to move some things around. I've managed to sell two items so far in the past two days out of my items for sale. That'll help me buy random parts for this and give me some room.

I got a few random things done today and took some comparison pictures. I started off by finishing taking my heads apart. I pushed the valves out and then carefully used a pair of dykes to pull the valve seals off:


During which time I noticed even more gunk built up on the valves:


I actually found this quite amusing, but stock LT1 valve train parts are a joke. All of the valves I've used or seen so far are 8mm LSx stuff, custom titanium 7mm, or 5/16ths. I took these pictures to point this out.

Here's a stock LT1 spring on the left and it's LS1 counterpart on the right:


Here's a picture of LT1 valves again on the left and 5.3 LSx valves on the right:

This was my favorite one. As I pulled the exhaust valves out I actually laughed.

Here's a few quick specs comparing the two sets of valves:
LS1 2.00 / 8mm Intake valve = 101.1 grams
LS1 1.55 / 8mm Exhaust valve = 87.3 grams
LT1 1.94 / 11-32 Intake valve = 110.0 grams
LT1 1.49 / 11-32 Exhaust valve = 95.0 grams

The weight difference was even more pronounced because I was using 5.3 valves which are smaller. I plan on having the guides switched out on my heads and having them swapped to 8mm ones. I'll use stock LS1 valves for the time being which are larger from the factory, lighter, and use a smaller stem. If you ever have to have new guides put in heads I'd go ahead and use 8mm LSx stuff. It's such a leap in technology even with stock parts it's not even funny. I created a thread a long time ago about it if you'd like to see what is required here you go:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-modifications/863787-lt1-valvetrain-questions.html

After I got them taken apart I scraped them clean and put them in the parts washer. I left it running when we left and they should be nice and clean by the time I get down there tomorrow.

The last thing I did was move onto continuing painting parts.

The power steering pulley and the AC canister holder are both done. I sprayed one more coat of gloss black and two coats of clear on them. I also sprayed two coats of black on the accessory bracket. I just need to spray that with clear and all of those are done.

I still have to do the intake manifold and water pump. I don't think either of those is going to be much fun, but I'm going to work on it later tonight. Tomorrow, I'm going to call our cylinder head guy and see how much it's going to cost to have some work done to my heads. Hopefully, it won't be too much and I can have him come and pick them up on Friday. My room mate recently got a large check and will be paying me back the large sum of money he owes me so I'll be able to order quite a few more things soon.

 

Damn, that's a big project! I'm having fun watching as it progresses!

 

Thanks, and yes it is definetly a handful. I have a lot of time and effort into it. It should be pretty sweet when I'm done though.

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Recently, I've been running out of things to do at the shop and have been concentrating on getting things done in my garage. I did head down to the shop Tuesday to grab a few things and clean off a turbo I'm looking to trade.

Tuesday night I worked on painting some things and working on my wiring harness. I started off by taping off the water pump and getting it ready to paint:


Here's a picture of my weephole mod with out the 1/4 inch metal line in there. It's not that great of a picture, but you can see the step. It was suprisingly difficult to get the metal line out of there.


I sprayed a coat of paint on each...


While I waited for them to dry I decided to continue working on my wiring harness. I sold the power seat slider that I took out of the car to my friend who is looking to convert his over. At the same time I cut out the wiring for it that I had previously decided on keeping so he could install his easier. The last time I looked at it I noticed that for some odd reason it was attached to the rear hatch defroster. That had prevented me from cutting out the defroster, but not anymore.


While I was working on that I went back to trying to figure out this crap:

It's called the, "convenience center". The round metal one is the hazard flasher, brown box is the audio alarm module, and the square one is the horn relay. I started tracing some of the wires to see where they go. One of the small yellow wires in the audio alarm module (brown box) goes into the spoiler brake light that I had previously detached and subsequently reattached. The few other wires I traced were ones that are the ones that are a bunch of wires of the same color taped together like so:

Black ones.

I really need to know if I can get rid of all of that stuff. I don't have horns in my car, don't want an alarm, and would like to get rid of it. Does any of it have random connections like the power seat and the rear defroster or can I just start clipping? What about the brake light? I noticed it Ys into another yellow wire that heads back to the brake light. I think that's just for the alarm, but I'm not sure.

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Then, last night I started working on a few things in my garage again. I finished painting my water pump and accessory bracket. The first time I painted the accessory bracket I sprayed way too much clear coat on there and it looked dull. I sanded it down some and put another coat of black on there then an extremely light coat of clear. That lead to no more haze and it looks just as good as it did with just the gloss black. Here's everything I've painted so far:


I also painted my antenna plug that I had previously epoxied shut. It doesn't look all that great, but if it stays in there and keeps water out I'll be happy.


I had a little extra time when I was painting and decided to throw a few things sitting in my garage away and organize some stuff. While doing so I was looking for my bag of Opti seals and screws. I didn't find them, but did notice something that got me wondering. Here are the two Opti rotors the ******* man SLawson86 sent to me:


I know this might be odd, but I noticed differences between them and my OCD tendencies kicked in. The one on the left has a hole towards the back and an extra tiny support part on the left side to hold the metal piece down. Anyone know why they are different and have suggestions on which one to use if I ever find my opti seals and screws?

I still have quite a few things I need to do and plan on working on stuff tonight. All of this stuff still has something that needs to be done to it:


Here's the next few steps:
- Port intake manifold, paint it black, and polish the fins
- Polish AC canister and lines
- Pull alternator pulley off, sand blast, and paint gloss black
- Paint alternator, AC compressor, and PS pump silver / greyish
- Get a new tensioner and paint it silver / greyish
- Find a 93 throttle body, sand blast, port, and polish it
- Finish working on body harness
- Paint brake booster gloss black

I'd like to finish the intake manifold, brake booster, and the get the alternator taken apart by Monday. In order to do that though I need a few pictures. I've seen and have saved a few pictures of lightly ported intake manifolds. Does anyone have any pictures of work done to their intake manifolds?

Once the above stuff is done I just need to get my heads finished, order poly engine and trans mounts, line lock, proportioning valve, gaskets, and paint the engine bay. Then, it's time for it to all start going back together.

 

wow very nice!! LONGGGGGG WAY!! i might be talkin to you a little more privately for questions as i think i might try to do a 4th gen dash swap into a 3rd gen...it will work but it takes some fabbing..i also want to use all the fourth gen wiring so it will all be updated....itll be sweet....future project, i need a donor car first though

 

Thanks, it definetly has come a long way from the nasty interior and dirty engine bay. No problem on the help. I've never worked on a third gen before, but I'll help to the best of my ability.

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I was going to work on my intake manifold last night, but I couldn't find any good cutting tools to do so. Instead, I stocked up on sand paper and started polishing. It was definetly a lot more work than I anticipated. The alternator and AC compressor are going to suck.

I decided to start with my AC canister because it seamed like the easiest thing to test on. Here's what it looked like to start with:


I then started off with some 240 grit using a Dremel:


400 Grit block sanded:


600 Grit wet sanded:


Using the 600 grit wet it basically disintigrated instantly. I had to use two seperate pieces to just do the AC canister.


That's where I left off because I couldn't find any finer sand paper. I found some today though, 800, 1000, and 1500 at two different places. I still need to get buffing / polishing wheels and the compound. I'm already $40 deep into sand paper.... I'm going to try and work on it a little tonight though.

 

I wouldn't have bothered with sanding down the thing, just cleaned it good and used polishing compound on it. I know paint is a different situation, but my friend buffed out his VW he picked up for $100, just the hood to see how it'd look. Turned out like a new hood save for the few chips heh Point is, you'll get a lot of oxidation off that way and the polishing will shine it up nicely. You could even use metal polish if the paint stuff doesn't work out so well.

How big can you port a stock TBody too? I mean, you personally, I know 54 is about the limits of the stock casting. It's too bad that shipping wouldn't be all that cheap, I could maybe ship my intake and TB out to you, have you do some intake porting maybe in trade for the stock TB, since I have a 58mm I can stick on

 

I have plenty of time on my hands to mess with this stuff so the sanding doesn't bother me. It makes it look about 500% better and I haven't even hit it with a buffing / polishing wheel yet. I'm interested to see how good it will look like when I hit it with actual polish.

Here's a really good link I found that details how to polish everything. That with some reading on here and I got it figured out:
http://www.lt1engine.com/tech/clean-up-your-engine-bay/

From what I've seen I think 52mm is right about it and the intake manifold has a 54mm opening. Shipping is ridiculous. I sold two of the plastic pieces that go under the front bumper and it cost me $18.50 to ship them to Missouri. The package weighed 5.5 lbs all sealed up. I sold them for $16.50, then lost 3% to paypal. Doh...

I've never ported anything before so I don't know if you'd want to send me anything. What I will do though is do all the research, port mine, and post up the results. That way if I mess something up neither of us is screwed and we can work from there.

 

I woke up kind of late today, but managed to get a few things done that will help expedite the reassembly of my car. I got down to the shop right around 2:30 and started dialing up a few people.

I recently took my GT4202 to a local turbo place to have them check out why it was wobbling. They said it was the bearings failing and that they just need to put new bearings in it and it'll be as good as new. That took a major load off of my back since the first time I went in there they were telling me it might need a new cartridge. Then, that a new catridge is in the range of $750.

I also called a local performance cylinder head place. He told me it would cost $144 to have the valve guides switched to 8mm and cut, $180 for a, "competition valve job", and $70 for a clean up mill on both heads. I forgot to ask him about having the heads tapped for 7/16th rocker bolts and milled for guide plates. Hopefully, that doesn't cost too much. If it starts getting ridiculous I'm just going to throw them back on there and save up for a LS1.

The next thing I did was jam in my new antenna plug. It was much more challenging than I anticipated, but it's in there. When I went to jam the new one in it distorted the epoxy and made it look like crap. I just smeared some more over the top and am going to wait for it to dry. Once it does that I'm going to sand it flat and paint it black again.

Yes, I know my paint looks like crap.

After that I moved onto removing the pulley from my alternator. I used a bent valve out of a 1.0L Daihatsu Charade (I bet you don't even know what that is.), jammed it into the alternator, and use an electric impact to get it loose:


Here's how the alternator pulley attaches to the alternator. The left side is closest to the alternator and works outwards as you go to the right:


I then really quickly hucked the alternator fan, pulley, and my valve covers in there to clean them off:


The only thing that kind of sucked was I found another part that I'm missing. I went looking for my thermostat housing so I could sand blast it also to get ready to paint. I dug through my boxes of parts and couldn't find one. When I go down there on Wednesday I'm going to order a new tensioner and thermostat housing. I don't want to spend all the time polishing the tensioner that looks like crap and then have it crap out on me 100 miles later. They're cheap and I figure I might as well buy a new one and save myself some frustration.

I plan on polishing and painting a lot of things tonight. I'm going to scam my room mate into helping me so this will speed up the process. I still need some help though. I really need to know about the wiring harness.


If anyone has any pictures of how they've had their intake manifold ported if you could pm me the pictures or send me a link it would be greatly appreciated.

Hopefully, it won't be too much longer and I can start putting this thing back together.

 

I skimmed a little bit so you may have already done this, but be sure to get a weight comparison on the 94 fuel rail VS the 93... the 94 setup weighs over a pound less because it doesn't have all the riduclous tubing every which way and such, and the rails themselves are a fair amount shorter. I did a 94 intake swap on my 93 and also got a set of newer style skinny injectors and dropped about 2.5 pounds just between the injectors and the 94 fuel rails. The 93 and 94 intakes weighed just about the same..your crack scales might show a bit of a difference though

On your manifold porting question... whether you leave the heads stock or open them up all you need is for the intake manifold ports to match the opening on the heads, nothing more. Just blindly opening up your intake manifold runners will do nothing good for you. If you're not doing any head porting or cleanup work yet, just do a quick cleanup on the intake manifold runners if you want to do anything with them at all... just smooth them up a bit and knock the casting grain down. Really it's probably not worth your time unless you're matching new enlarged openings on the heads, or they don't match as is.

Also, you don't have to do anything to install 7/16 rocker studs, just screw them in. The factory 3/8 studs are only 3/8 up top, the bottom is 7/16 and 7/16 ARP's will go right in.

Didn't I read earlier in this thread that your buddy has Alldata or that you have access to the factory wiring diagrams? You really outta just look at the wiring diagrams yourself and see where the convenience center wiring is going and tying in to. You've come this far! Shouldn't be a problem.. all those black wires are grounds though. you can peel out the ones going to that convenience center and leave any other grounds in/out of the rest of the bundle alone.

Last, I think it is funny that just about every update starts off with you not waking up as early as planned or not getting down to the shop as early as you'd hoped, and you never get as much done as you'd like You're not alone on that one.. that's hot roddin. Never get as much done as you'd like, stupid little **** takes 100 times longer than you think it will, and the dumbest things will fight you and hold up your progress.... or you're spending hours trying to dig out spare parts.... or how about spending 45 minutes trying to find that damn wrench or socket.... It's always something

 

Well then Beaflag, good luck on porting and I look forward to your write up If it's of any interest to you, my plan for porting the TB openings was to use a small-engine block style hone. Might take a bit, but it'll be a nice round opening, as apposed to the uneven one if you use a dremel or air tool I did 3 TPI manifolds and the only one that turned our fairly nice, was the one I went to town on and siamesed everything heh Look damn good too, got $100 for it on eBay when I sold the car

And as for ALLDATA, it might have been me mentioning it, but he might have it as well. I won't have access to it till next Monday though when my friend gets back in town :\

 

Keep up the good work. This is something I have always wanted to do but never had the funds to do so. It must be so nice living in Florida with no state inspections. I wish Missouri would take notes from Florida.

 

Thanks for the helpful reply. I will weigh the differences between the fuel rails themselves. I will be stuck with using the 93 injectors for a while though. I still need to get new o rings for them.

I plan on opening the heads up some, but not going crazy. I was planning on putting in new valves and such, but I'd rather avoid the roughly $500 associated cost. What I was originally thinking was just matching them to the gaskets, but when I put the old gaskets against the intake manifold the way they were sitting they were way off. Some runners had the gasket protruding into the runner while others were way off. When I centered the gasket on the runners the bolt holes were off.

I didn't know that about the rocker threads. That will definetly save me some money. I still need to figure out exactly what the rockers are. The Crane guy said they were from the mid 70s and 1.6 ratio. Jason said he bought them new in the early 90s and they are a 1.5 ratio. I do know they are NSA and use a 7/16ths fastener.

Yes, my friend has Alldata. In reality though it's a major pain in the ***. The way things are organized in there doesn't make much sense and some of the diagrams suck. The best thing to do is remember what each plug goes to and work from there. I'm just going to trace each wire down and see where it goes.

I completely agree on the last part. I've noticed that in every step of working on my car. I thought cutting out all of those interior brackets would only take me a few hours and I ended up working on it for days. Then, you find random things like broken header bolts and you spend hours you hadn't anticipated removing them. It's worth it though and it will be fun when I get this thing moving.

That sounds pretty interesting. I think I could do that with a drill press and a properly sized attachment. That would make it really easy to mass port them also. I'll test it out on my broken 93 throttle body and see how it works. If I mess it up it's not like I screwed anything up.

I've managed to get everything I need off of Alldata. It's only helped me out a few times, but I guess it was worth it.

Thanks, I really don't have that much money at all in the car. The car itself costed $900 including the cost of the parts I traded. I have probably another $300 in random parts. I wish I hadn't pulled the heads off of it. That pretty much wasted another $250-300 that I could have put else where (athmm LS1 / TH350 athmmm).

It is really nice not having inspections. When I was younger we had county inspections. My dad just registered his car in the next county that's 10 minutes away so he didn't have to deal with the inspections. You can't do that though when it's state wide.

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I got some stuff done last night, but I have to leave for work in 9 minutes. I'll update this later this evening.

 

I was actually referring to the intake itself, for 58mm lol However, the throttle body would most likely work out just as well!

 

Gotcha, I think it would actually work for both as long as you made sure it was lined up and secured properly.

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I just got off of work and here's what I did last night. I started off with painting some of the parts that I had cleaned off previously in the day and the brake booster.

Here's how I had to rig the brake booster up to paint it. Other wise it kept wanting to fall over:


I painted the brake booster and the alternator parts:

I was going to paint the valve covers too, but I didn't sand blast the inside of them and realized they were still kind of gunked up. I'm going to throw them in the parts cleaner tomorrow to get them ready to paint.

I wanted to work on polishing things in between coats of paint, but it makes such a huge mess. Instead I just messed around with a few things in my garage and listened to some music.

After I got that stuff done I moved back to polishing the AC canister. This time I worked on the line that runs off of it. I did this the same way I did the actual canister...

240 grit with a Dremel


400 grit


600 grit wet


I plan on working on some more polishing tonight. I'll probably do the fuel rails. They seem like they'll be pretty easy to do. Tomorrow, I'm going to order a new tensioner and thermostat housing. That way I'll be able to paint them later tomorrow night. I'm also going to throw my heads and valve covers in the parts cleaner.

I still need to figure out exactly what I'm going to do mod wise to put this thing back together. In reality I want to put a LS1 in there with my TH350. I can do that for around $1500-2000. I'm kind of looking at spending $500 to port the heads and install bigger valves as a waste. Then, I need the rest of the exhaust system, etc... and it starts adding up.

I could sell this whole setup LT1 / A4 / wiring / PCM for $500-750. That with the other money I'd be spending and I'd have a LS setup. It just makes a lot more sense seeing as how the LS setup will make more power, be around 100 lbs lighter, and I already have a ton of spare LS parts.

At this point I really only have two regrets. I wish I hadn't pulled the heads off. It is going to cost me $250 in gaskets to put it back together (stockish) plus possible the other stuff mod wise $500. That and I wish I had bought a trans setup on here that I really could have used for pretty much anything. Oh well... on with the work.

 

this thread is very in depth. i love it!

 

Thanks, it's probably about to get a lot more in depth even though there isn't that much more in the car.

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I made some decent progress today. I got down there nice and early. I moved the parts washer, plugged it in and put my heads and valve covers in there.

While they were running I worked on polishing my fuel rails. The bottom one is completely untouched and the top one is sanded to 600 grit:

I managed to get the other one ground down to 240 grit when I stopped. I'll continue working on it tonight.

I was also a little intrigued to see if there was really that much of a difference between the fuel rails size wise. Here's a good picture of what Fbody4Ever was talking about with the differences between the fuel rails. The 93 ones are on the bottom and the 94+ are on the top:

You can definetly tell there's a difference. I didn't get an opportunity to weigh them because I forgot the rest of the parts to my 94+ fuel rails and didn't want to post incorrect measurements.

I got a everything done I wanted to do today except for one thing. I ordered a new tensioner, but Discount Auto didn't have the thermostat housing for some odd reason. That kind of got me a little annoyed because in reality I'm missing quite a few vital things that you can't just buy to put this back together. I'm kind of getting tired of digging around junk yards and the for sale sections for random crap. I still need a 93 throttle body, opti screws / seals, and thermostat housing, that I can think of.

I kind of made up my mind today after talking to my friend and Jason that I'm going to stick an LS engine in this car. Instead of spending $250 on gaskets and other random stuff I'm going to start parting out my engine and transmission soon. I'm not 100% sure exactly what I'm going to stick in there yet. My friend who said I could have the seats and panels out of his drag car says he wants to buy my short block. That just leaves me with all the other stuff I've recently painted, polished, or cleaned.

I can get a complete 5.3 engine for around $600, but I really don't want to put an iron block back in the car. Jason has an extra LS1 block, but the hone is a little off. I'd have to get it honed to 3.910 or more, I can't really find any pistons in exactly the specs I want, and building an engine starts getting expensive really quickly. For now I just want to stick a stock LS1 bottom end with a set of 317s or 5.3 heads in the car with the TH350 / stall I have and drive it. I already have a ton of stock off of my Formula and other aftermarket LS1 stuff. All I'd really need would be the engine, wiring, and front accessories.

I know this isn't going to be a very popular decision in this section, but it makes sense for me. I'm going to get that all figured out and priced out. I should be able to sell everything I have LT1 wise and cover most of the cost of the new engine. In the mean time I'm going to continue working on polishing and painting items. I'm going to get the other fuel rail done tonight and paint the valve covers.