Is an N/A forged 355 a waste of time/money?
02-14-2008, 06:37 PM
#24
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Thanks for the advice guys.
It sounds like the common opinion is that it's a good preventative mod. (and I agree)
I was trying to clarify short-term benefits. I'm trying to get down to 11.6 N/A to run an 11.7 index.
It sounds like the common opinion is that it's a good preventative mod. (and I agree)
I was trying to clarify short-term benefits. I'm trying to get down to 11.6 N/A to run an 11.7 index.
Last edited by James Montigny; 02-15-2008 at 07:35 AM.
02-14-2008, 06:47 PM
#25
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if it was my build, i would go stroker... especially for an n/a build. not to say id pass on the 355 for that kind of price, but n/a, i would personally go more cubes. but thats my .02
02-14-2008, 06:54 PM
#26
i myself like strokers too......however the correct head and cam combo along with proper tunning and supporting mods 10s are attainable.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vWMmDbzf_SI
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vWMmDbzf_SI
02-14-2008, 07:28 PM
#27
If there are NO plans to spray the car, and even if you did the stock rods and crank will live a long life on a properly set up 125 shot.
Build the 355 with the stock crank and rods and a nice set of pistons and rings. Do a cam change and retune.
Done, with alot of money left in yo pocket.
David
Build the 355 with the stock crank and rods and a nice set of pistons and rings. Do a cam change and retune.
Done, with alot of money left in yo pocket.
David
02-14-2008, 11:36 PM
#28
If there are NO plans to spray the car, and even if you did the stock rods and crank will live a long life on a properly set up 125 shot.
Build the 355 with the stock crank and rods and a nice set of pistons and rings. Do a cam change and retune.
Done, with alot of money left in yo pocket.
David
Build the 355 with the stock crank and rods and a nice set of pistons and rings. Do a cam change and retune.
Done, with alot of money left in yo pocket.
David
$1200 for then sell his stock shortblock for $350, so $950 out of pocket vs....
Tear his down, then machine work($320), buy rings and pistons($490 for wiseco), arp rod bolts(didnt look up price), arp main bolts(~$60 dollars), bearings($120 for rod and main), then I don't know that he wants to assemble himself,(if not add $300 here) so that is more money. So if he doesn't assemble it, he's now out MORE money for worse parts.
02-28-2008, 03:52 AM
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The motor is almost ready to go in, I'm excited.
I was playing with an old dyno software program I had on my PC trying to see exactly how shifting 500rpm higher would help.
The actual numbers came out pretty close to what I saw on the dyno, but the point here isn't so much the HP increase but rather the impact of a higher shift point.
Here's what I came up with.
Note that the real gain here is by shifting higher I spend 500 more RPM in ~400rwhp range.
I'm curious to see how shifts improve, even though the graph would put me up ~75rwhp across 2nd and 3rd (HP VS TIME)
IE: The car doesn't have to climb from 200 to 275 in 2nd and 3rd.
Having a 4000 stall with long shift extensions may make that less important.
Crude graph of what I am trying to say
Note the less severe drop in HP between shifts and overall increase in HP available throughout the run.
PINK= 355 with raised shift point
BLUE = 350 with current shift point
I was playing with an old dyno software program I had on my PC trying to see exactly how shifting 500rpm higher would help.
The actual numbers came out pretty close to what I saw on the dyno, but the point here isn't so much the HP increase but rather the impact of a higher shift point.
Here's what I came up with.
Note that the real gain here is by shifting higher I spend 500 more RPM in ~400rwhp range.
I'm curious to see how shifts improve, even though the graph would put me up ~75rwhp across 2nd and 3rd (HP VS TIME)
IE: The car doesn't have to climb from 200 to 275 in 2nd and 3rd.
Having a 4000 stall with long shift extensions may make that less important.
Crude graph of what I am trying to say
Note the less severe drop in HP between shifts and overall increase in HP available throughout the run.
PINK= 355 with raised shift point
BLUE = 350 with current shift point
Last edited by James Montigny; 02-28-2008 at 05:54 AM.
03-29-2011, 10:20 PM
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Hmm, I guess I never finished this thread.
I put the motor in and spent the next month or so trying to figure out the vibration.
Turns out, he put two of the main caps in the wrong positions.
Ruined the crank, rods and cyl walls. I spent $1000 in machine work to fix it.
I sold the parts for $1200, but never got a penny back from the guy.
The 355 is now running strong in a friend's Camaro under a set of LE2 heads and my old LE1HL cam.
I built a 383 instead.
Tough lesson learned
I put the motor in and spent the next month or so trying to figure out the vibration.
Turns out, he put two of the main caps in the wrong positions.
Ruined the crank, rods and cyl walls. I spent $1000 in machine work to fix it.
I sold the parts for $1200, but never got a penny back from the guy.
The 355 is now running strong in a friend's Camaro under a set of LE2 heads and my old LE1HL cam.
I built a 383 instead.
Tough lesson learned
03-30-2011, 01:02 AM
#37
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NP, I was just going over some of my old threads and noticed that this one needed a final update.
It's fun to see some of the stuff I've been though over the years and reflect on what I've learned (and forgotten).
It's fun to see some of the stuff I've been though over the years and reflect on what I've learned (and forgotten).
