James Montigny

iTrader: (13)

Here's where I sit.

I have a 93 Firehawk running 11.89 @ 113 N/A on the stock 350
with LE2 heads and an LE1HL cam in a full-weight DD. 4000Stall

The 350 is consuming oil (I suspect blow-by) and I happen to have access to a freshly rebuilt forged 355 at a good price.
(forged pistons, stock crank)

Is it worth the time and effort to move my heads and cam over if I don't do N20?
(should I consider swapping in a 383 crank while I have it apart?)
EDIT: I'd have to buy new pistons too, wouldn't I?

The advantages of the 355 over the 350 I see are
- slightly higher compression (12.01:1 VS 11.30:1)
- no blow-by
- ability to rev higher and take advantage of more peak HP

I really like having an N/A car and I do DD this thing. I race a few times a year.
Reliability and street manners are important to me.
I don't really want to get a bigger cam or N20 at this point, the LE1HL is just right IMHO.
(similar to the LE1N20 cam JoeB runs)

I'd like run in the 11.70 bracket this year (local VAMP races at KCIR)
Cutting .20 to .30 off my time would be a prerequisite.

solid95z

iTrader: (7)

there is nothing wrong with buying that 355 and running it. It'll run fine and you won't be wasting your money.

On the other hand if you have the extra money you can pick up a cast 3.75" crank for about $200, have the machine work done to fit the crank & for under another $1000 you'll have a well built 383 to drive that'll make a little more hp & lots more tq.

Plus it'll be a TON more fun to drive

9sec93

iTrader: (67)

you will need different pistons with a different crank. going forged definitely isnt a waste of money. you can turn more rpm with peace of mind.

9formula4

iTrader: (5)

if your going to go 355 or anything at that why not just pull your motor and bore (355) or stroke (383) it?

ABA383

iTrader: (1)

The 350(355)/383 debate has ben going on for a long time...I like the 383 because, when built correctly you can move the hp/tq numbers down the rpm scale which puts less strain on the rotating parts, allows for lower (numerically) rear gears, and usually less stall speed which all helps for daily drivability...And, if you have the money forged is always a nice way to go...I run a Callies 3.75" crank, Oliver billet steel 5.85" rods and JE pistons...I've got the combo set up to shift at 64-6500 rpm...I'm going on my 13th year with this bottom end with zero issues and I'm not easy on my stuff...

--Alan

Formula350

iTrader: (3)

Wow! 13 years, that's a great build!

If you plan on doing mods to that 355, why not just do as said and rebuild your current motor with those parts? You'd then still have a numbers matching Firehawk. And if you swapped out motors, you may sometime down the line forget that it's a semi-key piece to a collectors car, and sell the motor due to space, money, whatever. I say drop the money into a 355/383 forged rebuild of your current motor. Plus, as your sig says, you have #18 Firehawk, who knows how many before that were actually sold to the public and not kept indoors (employees, big heads, etc). Just a thought.

BTW, you never told us what "A good price" is, so that kind of hinders our ability to gauge how good of a deal it is.

James Montigny

iTrader: (13)

Well, I'm not sure it's much of a collector car. We're only at 59K, but I can see the
overspray, so I know the car's been wrecked at some point. I bought it as a toy
but at the same time, I'd like to keep the original 350 laying around in case I ever want to freshen it
up and restore the car to stock.

The forged 355 pricetag was $1200 which included a complete teardown, sonic check, honing and rebuild.
Block is already bored +.030 and 0-decked.
ARP studs, Eagle H beams, Ross -4cc flat tops, 18K miles.
Certainly not giving it away, but cheaper than trying to do it to my own block.

The question was more am I wasting my time/money than it was 355 vs 383.
383 was an afterthought, then I started doing the geometry and realized
I'd be moving the pistons up .125" unless I swapped them. (in which case
rebuilding mine becomes just as cost-effective)

Keeping downtime to a minimum would be nice too.
This is my DD and cars in pieces in the garage cost me a lot of points with the wife and kids.
Having the shortblock ready to go before tearing mine down helps a lot.
(On a side note, I have a 93 TBird I've been rebuilding to use as a DD to keep the miles off the Hawk)

I currently shift at 6375 (4L60 non-e)
My car peaks at 6250, so shifting closer to 7K would be beneficial.
I'm crossing the 1320 well below peak, I'm considering 4.10s depending on where I end up after the engine mods

Formula350

iTrader: (3)

Man, your shifts make me wish I raised my Rev Limiter from stock :S I do have 40K more miles than you.

CamaroRacing12

iTrader: (5)

4000 stall? is it a yank? how is that thing on the street???

James Montigny

iTrader: (13)

Yank SS4000.
Works very well on the street. You have to give it 2200-2400 to get moving,
which is most noticeable at <15 mph (school zones, parking garages, stop and go traffic)
I love it

My only complaint is the part-throttle TCC lockup was pretty brutal at 42mph, so I raised it to 52.

slick1851

I think building a stroker with FUCKEN JUNK HEADS IS A BIG WAIST OF TIME


So get some killer heads, and up the compression and that will be a mean 355

Since you have good heads, then you should be good


I left the sentance out so I added it

Formula350

iTrader: (3)

I hate to jump off topic, but James, you have the best sig for the Shootout IMO It's so much more eye friendly ^_^

Formula350

iTrader: (3)

Wow, Lloyd does "FUCKEN JUNK" work now? O_O

slick1851

But you do agree, you see some very poorly built 383s on here running extremly slow times.

Adding cubes doesnt make you faster, heads,intake, right cam all play a massive role wich people dont get

slick1851

Im sorry but Im talking about general terms

James Montigny

iTrader: (13)

Guys, keep in mind that this is not a "355 VS 383" thread.
It's a "Is James making a good decision or bad decision by paying for this shortblock if not using N20 (which would otherwise make this a very useful build)"
And any constructive advice you may have to add on the subject.

I have the .psd right here; if anyone wants one with their cars in the background, I'd be happy to make one for you.

ABA383

iTrader: (1)

Oh I definitely agree...The added cubes in my combo combined with the cam and heads help bring in the low end a bit earlier...There are lots of 350s and 383s built all screwed up and going slow...Its all in the combo no matter which displacement you go with...Both have advantages/disadvantages..Its all in what you want out of your combo...As far as forged components go beware of the cheapie stuff...I am N/A thru and thru but I wanted a durable bottom end that will last and last...I used top quality stuff, meticulous machine work and extreme attention to detail in assembly...The motor was originally built by Lingenfelter back in 1995 and has just gotten faster and faster without any problems...

--Alan

95 Formula

iTrader: (2)

Build the 355 right and it isn't a waist of time. For that matter. Build any bottem end right and it isn't a waste of time. The forged parts will give you peace of mind and gives you a good platform to grow on. I love mine.

skinnies

iTrader: (33)

Just curious how many miles you have on the motor now.

James, I say go for the shortblock then if you ever want to spray it in the future you have a good platform going for the car already.

Checkmate007

$1200 Sounds like a steal for a forged short block. Its forged so who cares about 30 extra cubes, just spend money on bigger nitrous jets!

Edit- I just now realized the engine was not new and had 18K, Id offer him $800 lol