10's w/Ai 355 pump gas VIDEO
02-13-2008, 09:16 AM
#22
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Sounds like a MUst***, I mean AN X-PIPE. LOL.
That thing SCREAMS. Sounds WIKKED and Hauls SSA! Whats the approximate lift and duration on the cam...Just a ballpark, so we have an idea.
That thing SCREAMS. Sounds WIKKED and Hauls SSA! Whats the approximate lift and duration on the cam...Just a ballpark, so we have an idea.
02-13-2008, 09:41 AM
#24
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Great run!
I've been anxiously anticipating leaving the sand box so I can get back to Louisiana, get a tune for my AI 200 /forged 355 and see how that puppy runs!
Thanks for sharing the video!
Mike
I've been anxiously anticipating leaving the sand box so I can get back to Louisiana, get a tune for my AI 200 /forged 355 and see how that puppy runs!
Thanks for sharing the video!
Mike
02-13-2008, 01:40 PM
#28
AI customers are pretty tight lipped about cam specs,they will easily tell you if it is a HR or SR and small insight of actual numbers which is their choice.
They are a reputable shop and i am sure if you discuss the correct combo for your car you will have great results as well.
They are a reputable shop and i am sure if you discuss the correct combo for your car you will have great results as well.
02-13-2008, 02:00 PM
#29
Some information about some of the cams is available on Ai's website. Much of the development/new grinds aren't on there. Some people also run custom grinds that don't exactly fit what they list or advertise. The solid roller stuff falls into the categories above. Look on thier website under the products page for Cam Kits or Valvetrain packages.
As for those looking for information about Alek's setup, search on CZ28. He posted many of the details of the setup when it made 460-480rwhp.
As for those looking for information about Alek's setup, search on CZ28. He posted many of the details of the setup when it made 460-480rwhp.
02-13-2008, 04:05 PM
#30
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found this on cz28:
I just got my AI 200cc CNC ported heads bolted on & can’t wait to get everything going and tweaked on. They look sick, like the pics they put on their site of the 190’s with all the flanges cut. They also machined everything so it fit together without having to grind on bolt holes.
http://www.advancedinduction.com/images/CNCLT1VCR.jpg
All I care about is what it runs, but everyone wants to “race” the flow bench so lets get that out of the way first.….
Lift Intake Exhaust (no pipes)
.100 72.1 60.4
.200 148 116
.300 205 153
.400 247 173
.500 275 188
.600 284 194
.700 285 197
I know they all pretty much look the same these days. Ai says the actual flow numbers don’t mean much & that there are different ways to get the same flow or dyno number, but one of those ways will perform better than the others. We’re gonna find out soon.
Obviously the heads alone are just a part of the story. Here is the low down on the rest of the car:
355 cid LT1 block with a stock crank, Manly sportsman rods, 4.030” Mahle Powerpack’s, Main & head studs, double roller chain W/ e-water pump, solid roller, comp pro mag 1.6 rockers, AI ported “street/strip” LT-1 intake, AS&M 58mm TB, hooker 1 ¾ long tubes, slp 2OTL, 42 lb SVO’s. I’ve got a m6, 4.56’s in a moser 12bolt.
The car is full weight with all existing factory options & systems present and accounted for, and a nice PG amp and complimenting speakers. Ok, maby not all of them ( !EGR, !CAT ECT…)
I had wanted a hot 355 for street duties that I’ll drag race a few times a year. I wanted 440+ rwhp and at least 120mph traps. I wasn’t sure about the solid, but after my experience with the comp-r’s :no: I told Phil I wanted to try the morel hydraulics with the new head and cam. He suggested a mild SR to eliminate the hassle of a HR. He also pointed out that the added spring pressure would serve as ‘insurance’ since I mayyyy, COUGH #! miss a COUGH gear at some point COHGH/ HACK, over rev the engine. Not to worry though I am confident in my ‘mad rowing skillz’
. Sorry guys, no specs on this cam, but it ‘s about 10deg smaller than the usual suspect cams that go in most of the faster solid 355’s, and the same .050” duration I see 355/383 HR guys run. I am told It’s not as aggressive as the XE lobes people run and is like 8X something degrees to 200 something or another. In short, they say it’ll drive like a smaller cam, I guess we’ll see.
I have a mail-order tune from CAM, and will get on the dyno as soon I can. I just want it to run hard when we take it to the track afterwards, but dyno days are always cool. My old Ai topend with a HR went high 11’s so hopefully it’ll be faster this time!
So what do you guys think?
http://www.advancedinduction.com/images/CNCLT1VCR.jpg
All I care about is what it runs, but everyone wants to “race” the flow bench so lets get that out of the way first.….
Lift Intake Exhaust (no pipes)
.100 72.1 60.4
.200 148 116
.300 205 153
.400 247 173
.500 275 188
.600 284 194
.700 285 197
I know they all pretty much look the same these days. Ai says the actual flow numbers don’t mean much & that there are different ways to get the same flow or dyno number, but one of those ways will perform better than the others. We’re gonna find out soon.
Obviously the heads alone are just a part of the story. Here is the low down on the rest of the car:
355 cid LT1 block with a stock crank, Manly sportsman rods, 4.030” Mahle Powerpack’s, Main & head studs, double roller chain W/ e-water pump, solid roller, comp pro mag 1.6 rockers, AI ported “street/strip” LT-1 intake, AS&M 58mm TB, hooker 1 ¾ long tubes, slp 2OTL, 42 lb SVO’s. I’ve got a m6, 4.56’s in a moser 12bolt.
The car is full weight with all existing factory options & systems present and accounted for, and a nice PG amp and complimenting speakers. Ok, maby not all of them ( !EGR, !CAT ECT…)
I had wanted a hot 355 for street duties that I’ll drag race a few times a year. I wanted 440+ rwhp and at least 120mph traps. I wasn’t sure about the solid, but after my experience with the comp-r’s :no: I told Phil I wanted to try the morel hydraulics with the new head and cam. He suggested a mild SR to eliminate the hassle of a HR. He also pointed out that the added spring pressure would serve as ‘insurance’ since I mayyyy, COUGH #! miss a COUGH gear at some point COHGH/ HACK, over rev the engine. Not to worry though I am confident in my ‘mad rowing skillz’
. Sorry guys, no specs on this cam, but it ‘s about 10deg smaller than the usual suspect cams that go in most of the faster solid 355’s, and the same .050” duration I see 355/383 HR guys run. I am told It’s not as aggressive as the XE lobes people run and is like 8X something degrees to 200 something or another. In short, they say it’ll drive like a smaller cam, I guess we’ll see. I have a mail-order tune from CAM, and will get on the dyno as soon I can. I just want it to run hard when we take it to the track afterwards, but dyno days are always cool. My old Ai topend with a HR went high 11’s so hopefully it’ll be faster this time!
So what do you guys think?
02-14-2008, 07:06 AM
#33
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I know Aleks will get on here and give the specs of the car but he tuned the F.A.S.T. bank-to-bank system himself and he rented a Dynapack to map all areas for super driveablility.
http://www.dynopack.co.nz/
I'm very impressed by his tuning and hope to get my cars over there to Ohio for some tuning sessions.
Karl
http://www.dynopack.co.nz/
I'm very impressed by his tuning and hope to get my cars over there to Ohio for some tuning sessions.
Karl
02-15-2008, 12:03 PM
#35
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Thanks for the compliments, I appreciate it guys. It's nice to get down the track without destroying drivetrain. The car is running an F.A.S.T. Classic bank to bank EFI, and a stock vented opti spark. Race weight is 3320 and I am running a 4.10 gear. My 60's where in the 1.5's, but as you can see in the video it was bogging down pretty hard. I have to do some calculations and figure out a new rear end ratio and launch rpm. I've had the power for awhile with this engine to go mid 10's and high 120's, but have to get the setup dialed in.
Here are my dyno graphs:
SAE
and
STD
Here are my time slips:
timeslips
I got the weight down to 3320 by removing the interior. The car has to go in for a 10 or 12 point cage, and the chassis guy told me it would make his life easier if I brought him the car with no interior. I removed the seats, carpet, center console, door trim, and most of the cabin plastics. I left the seat belts (driver and pass) and installed a cheap summit racing seat. I mounted it by making my own seat bracket. Basically, I took out the easy stuff. I can reinstall the entire interior in about an hour.
It's my street car, so I can't remove a lot of the parts that will really help get the car to transfer weight & get down the track. It still has air bags, full & functioning AC/Heat, ABS, wipers, front & rear bumpers, power windows, all of the glass is stock, stock brakes, stock A-arms, and a stock gas tank. I am more than likely going to replace the upper and lower A-arms, and if I get new brakes I want the sweet road race ones, not the ultra light drag race brakes. I guess the final weight will be around 35-3600 or so after the chrome molly cage and the interior and sound system are reinstalled. I don't think it'll make much difference to add a little weight back. Once I keep it screaming from one end to the other (instead of semi bogging it for the first second or two) I think it'll end up going faster.
I am glad you guys like the sound! The tapes do it no justice, Ive never heard an LT1 like it. When I set up the engine I was using a stock ECU, so Ai set the cam to peak around 6900-7000 (it does). However, the springs are set up to handle more rpm (originally for safety margin). So when I installed the F.A.S.T. I started shifting higher & higher, and the
multiple hits on the rev limiter were 8,000 RPM!! It was only down 20hp (480) at 7500, so I've been trying to shift there. The exhaust is a set of pace setter 1 3/4" headers with my own custom X-pipe exhaust. It has awesome ground clearance, but may be too loud for street use. For the past year I've just used band clamps to quickly swap back to my SLP 2OTL for long distance cruises. It works pretty good, I can swap exhausts in 10 mins or so.
When I started working on this engine I didn't care how long it lasted. It was just something to play with while I got the big engine together. I used some budget components: balanced factory crank, manley sportsman ibeams, decent pistons & rings (Mahle power pack), stock oil system, and a compromise rocker system (comp promags w/stud girdle b/c I already owned the 1.6's). This engine turned out so well with a nice torque curve & drivability that there's rumors it will be built & sold with nicer valvetrain, crank, rods, oiling etc. this year.
The original video I did when I first put it in the car, before sorting
out the tuning issues is still up on street fire:
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/c...7c00207164.htm
Thanks guys!
Here are my dyno graphs:
SAE
and
STD
Here are my time slips:
timeslips
I got the weight down to 3320 by removing the interior. The car has to go in for a 10 or 12 point cage, and the chassis guy told me it would make his life easier if I brought him the car with no interior. I removed the seats, carpet, center console, door trim, and most of the cabin plastics. I left the seat belts (driver and pass) and installed a cheap summit racing seat. I mounted it by making my own seat bracket. Basically, I took out the easy stuff. I can reinstall the entire interior in about an hour.
It's my street car, so I can't remove a lot of the parts that will really help get the car to transfer weight & get down the track. It still has air bags, full & functioning AC/Heat, ABS, wipers, front & rear bumpers, power windows, all of the glass is stock, stock brakes, stock A-arms, and a stock gas tank. I am more than likely going to replace the upper and lower A-arms, and if I get new brakes I want the sweet road race ones, not the ultra light drag race brakes. I guess the final weight will be around 35-3600 or so after the chrome molly cage and the interior and sound system are reinstalled. I don't think it'll make much difference to add a little weight back. Once I keep it screaming from one end to the other (instead of semi bogging it for the first second or two) I think it'll end up going faster.
I am glad you guys like the sound! The tapes do it no justice, Ive never heard an LT1 like it. When I set up the engine I was using a stock ECU, so Ai set the cam to peak around 6900-7000 (it does). However, the springs are set up to handle more rpm (originally for safety margin). So when I installed the F.A.S.T. I started shifting higher & higher, and the
multiple hits on the rev limiter were 8,000 RPM!! It was only down 20hp (480) at 7500, so I've been trying to shift there. The exhaust is a set of pace setter 1 3/4" headers with my own custom X-pipe exhaust. It has awesome ground clearance, but may be too loud for street use. For the past year I've just used band clamps to quickly swap back to my SLP 2OTL for long distance cruises. It works pretty good, I can swap exhausts in 10 mins or so.
When I started working on this engine I didn't care how long it lasted. It was just something to play with while I got the big engine together. I used some budget components: balanced factory crank, manley sportsman ibeams, decent pistons & rings (Mahle power pack), stock oil system, and a compromise rocker system (comp promags w/stud girdle b/c I already owned the 1.6's). This engine turned out so well with a nice torque curve & drivability that there's rumors it will be built & sold with nicer valvetrain, crank, rods, oiling etc. this year.
The original video I did when I first put it in the car, before sorting
out the tuning issues is still up on street fire:
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/c...7c00207164.htm
Thanks guys!
