LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

EGF air delete help please also header help

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Old Feb 27, 2008 | 07:01 PM
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Default EGF air delete help please also header help

I just got a set of pacester with EGF and air provisions but have plugsd them. How do I remove the EGF and air stuff fromm motor? Also is it worth while replacing my motor and granny mounts at the same time? All help greatly apreciated pictures and a nice how to write up would be realy great as well
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Old Feb 27, 2008 | 08:55 PM
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well honestly, most of the capped ones like screw off and the vehicle emissions screw on. However, if you want to block off the air and egr you will need to buy the block off plates for the intake manifold, as well as get the computer retuned to delete the air and egr controls. If you have any more ?'s just ask.. Also please post some pics of the headers where the tubes areplugged or capped.
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Old Feb 27, 2008 | 08:56 PM
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oh, polyurethane motor and trans mounts are a good idea too..
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Old Feb 27, 2008 | 10:32 PM
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https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-modifications/783145-my-new-exhaust-dyno-numbers.html


My thread will help with everything for your header install.
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Old Feb 27, 2008 | 10:32 PM
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REMOVAL FOR STEERING LINKAGE

I am doing pretty good. The LT's were a bit of a pain, it just takes time. The steering linkage, is connected with two bolts. The first bolt is up at the top by your master cylinder (the big saucer looking thing). There will be a shroud plastic cover over the bolt. Just take the bolt out and you are almost done. The second bolt is located right under the knuckle that is in the middle of the steering linkage. The bolt comes right before where the steering linkage connects to the rack and pinion. So you take out the top bolt and the bottom bolt. I believe the bottom bolt is a mertric and the top is a standard. Once you remove these two bolts take your hand and grap the portion below the steering knuckle, and push up and back, so that the top part of the steering shaft slides over the part that the top bolt bolted into. Then I took a rubber malte a took the top of it and lightly hit it on the knuckle part of the steering linkage. You will see the top part of the steering linkage slide over the top where the bolt was bolted. After this is done, and you have removed the bottom part (the steering linkage is no more attached to the rack and pinion then grab the bottom portion of the steering linkage which is under the knuckle and pull down, this will cause the top now to slide do and out. Just remeber to put the steering linkage on the way you took it off, I tighted my bolts on both really tight when I put m steering linkage back on.

REMOVAL FOR OIL DIPSTICK

The oil dipstick is located on the passanger side of course. You will need to remove you A.I.R connections on your passagner side, the rubber tubes, and then your set. The dipstick is a little tricky. What I did was I jacked up my car and put jackstand on the front of the car. Then i got my friend to grab the DS. There is a bolt which is located up up along the oil dipstick. I would find the dipstick it is in the block some, and follow that up, you will hit like a little bracket / brace thing that is bolted to the block. It is actually more of a flang that anything. Take that bolt out I believe it is a 1/8 in bolt, or metric (something in that size range). Once you take that bolt up, take your hand on the flange part that you just unbolted, and have a friend up top to menueve the DS out. I would grab that flange and slightly pull up and wiggle genelty (VERY GENTLY) left to right, you will see the DS start to move it's way out of the block. Keep on wiggling the DS till it is completely out of then block, then have your friend grab the DS and pull it completely out of the car. Make sure that you do not bend the DS. The DS will go in a lot easier than it came out trust me. If you cannot get the DS out, b/c you cannot grip it, take some vise grips and lightly get as close as you can to where the DS meets the block, and clamp onto the DS, and then slightly pull up and wiggle left to right just like before until it comes out.

If you need anymore help at all, I will help in anyway I can. Ask if you have questions or concerns on anything during this header install or any car problem.


Later,
Devin (blk97z28)
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Old Feb 27, 2008 | 10:33 PM
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Hope that helps, I have found those are the two most commonly hard things to remove on a header install.
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Old Feb 27, 2008 | 11:06 PM
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thank ya for the help guys greatly apreciated. also I am going to remove the air but not the egr for the time being any advice? also can you give me a detailed step by step on the header instal please guys. I will be working on a limited amount of time and wanna do it rite and do it quick.
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Old Feb 28, 2008 | 07:09 PM
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Honestly I would look at the thread I postd OP, it should help you with everything.
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Originally Posted by transamsam98
I just got a set of pacester with EGF and air provisions but have plugsd them. How do I remove the EGF and air stuff fromm motor? Also is it worth while replacing my motor and granny mounts at the same time? All help greatly apreciated pictures and a nice how to write up would be realy great as well


ya deffinitely replace that granny mount bro.

that'll add like 50hp.

lmao - ya do engine and trans mounts but get prothane, stay away from energy suspension (p.o.s.) i had to return my ES mounts because they were too loose in the clamshells, even worse than stock, got my money back and bought prothane and they were SAWeeet even had to use a vise to get the clamshells together!
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