LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Cam issue!

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Old Feb 29, 2008 | 08:46 PM
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Default Cam issue!

I know this may not be in the right section but i need everyones opinion. I wanted to see what yall guys think could make this happen and maybe why. My car was running like crap so i took it back to the shop and we find out that one of the lobes on the cam is rounded off. We found out because one of the valves was only lifting about .100 Just wanted to know what causes this and why. Its a hydraulic flat tappet cam just incase that helps. Could it just be a bad part or could something be wrong with any of the valvetrain? We already replaced the cam and is getting put back together as we speak. Thanks!
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Old Feb 29, 2008 | 09:30 PM
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Originally Posted by a-mean-89-iroc
I know this may not be in the right section but i need everyones opinion. I wanted to see what yall guys think could make this happen and maybe why. My car was running like crap so i took it back to the shop and we find out that one of the lobes on the cam is rounded off. We found out because one of the valves was only lifting about .100 Just wanted to know what causes this and why. Its a hydraulic flat tappet cam just incase that helps. Could it just be a bad part or could something be wrong with any of the valvetrain? We already replaced the cam and is getting put back together as we speak. Thanks!
Common problem w/flat tappets of the 60's, 70's, & 80's. GM had several bad batches of hardening & if it was not broke in at a high enough RPM on intial start up the wear started right away...but not noticed usually for 20-30-50k miles until you get a miss that slowly gets worse with miles.
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Old Feb 29, 2008 | 09:33 PM
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Originally Posted by TLewis4095
Common problem w/flat tappets of the 60's, 70's, & 80's. GM had several bad batches of hardening & if it was not broke in at a high enough RPM on intial start up the wear started right away...but not noticed usually for 20-30-50k miles until you get a miss that slowly gets worse with miles.
Well this engine only has 3 k miles It was built in the end of last year. Everything else seems fine except the cam.
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Old Mar 1, 2008 | 11:57 AM
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i had this problem with two cams of the same manafacturer completely different motors. one was a BBC and the other was a SBC. Other than that sounds like a flattend cam. Nothing you can really do except replace and hope it didnt get to your bearings.
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Old Mar 1, 2008 | 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by the_hunted
i had this problem with two cams of the same manafacturer completely different motors. one was a BBC and the other was a SBC. Other than that sounds like a flattend cam. Nothing you can really do except replace and hope it didnt get to your bearings.
Well the shop checked it out and they said that most of the metal got caught by the filter but that they were going to do a couple of oil changes and wear the cam in. They said everything should be good afterwards. They said this is a rare thing that happens.
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Old Mar 1, 2008 | 09:31 PM
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Break in on flat tappets is critical. It was either bad break in or a soft grind.
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Old Mar 1, 2008 | 09:41 PM
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maybe try switching or looking inot to hyd. roller lifters and cam ?
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Old Mar 2, 2008 | 11:46 AM
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As everybody already cover, but couple othter things too.

1) Make sure the lifter moves smoothly in the bore, if it's sticking at all that could cause ware. Make sure the botton of the lifter has no burrs, and make sure you coat the lifter and cam with plenty of lube, a dry start could kill the cam lobe, one small nick is all it takes.

2) Always start a fresh engine on standard dino oil, not synthetic, I also always use a breakin additive, I perfer GM's. I use a quart of the initial start-up ( 20 minutes run time, then use another on that oil shance, and change that oil after 100-150 miles. * Note this is oil addative and not assemble lube, thet are different. Assembly lube is thick, think enough to clog the oil filter ( main reason you change the oil after 20 minutes ).

3) When you first start the engine you want to run it for 20 minutes. As soon as it starts take it up to 1,700-2,000 RPMs for 5 minutes, thaen vary the RPMs between 1000 and 2500 for a few minutes each.
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Old Mar 2, 2008 | 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Pro_built7
maybe try switching or looking inot to hyd. roller lifters and cam ?
I will but maybe later man! I dont have enough money to go hydraulic roller right now. So ima have to stick to hydraulic flat tappet. Do yall think that flat tappet is good to use on a racing engine that reaches 6000 rpm?
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Old Mar 2, 2008 | 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Pampered-Z
As everybody already cover, but couple othter things too.

1) Make sure the lifter moves smoothly in the bore, if it's sticking at all that could cause ware. Make sure the botton of the lifter has no burrs, and make sure you coat the lifter and cam with plenty of lube, a dry start could kill the cam lobe, one small nick is all it takes.

2) Always start a fresh engine on standard dino oil, not synthetic, I also always use a breakin additive, I perfer GM's. I use a quart of the initial start-up ( 20 minutes run time, then use another on that oil shance, and change that oil after 100-150 miles. * Note this is oil addative and not assemble lube, thet are different. Assembly lube is thick, think enough to clog the oil filter ( main reason you change the oil after 20 minutes ).

3) When you first start the engine you want to run it for 20 minutes. As soon as it starts take it up to 1,700-2,000 RPMs for 5 minutes, thaen vary the RPMs between 1000 and 2500 for a few minutes each.
Thanks for the info man!
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Old Mar 3, 2008 | 08:42 PM
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Well im going to pick up the car tomorrow. Hopefully everything is good from now on. Wish me luck guys!
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Old Mar 4, 2008 | 11:56 AM
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couldnt to much valve spring pressure do that same thing??
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Old Mar 5, 2008 | 08:47 PM
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Originally Posted by 355z28
couldnt to much valve spring pressure do that same thing??
Yeah it can do it but wouldnt it affect all of them? Only one lobe and lifter went out!
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