LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Trouble with cammed lt1

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Old Mar 19, 2008 | 11:53 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Sgt. Spuds
Alright the specs are in my sig. First time the car started with the new motor and tune, it ran pretty good, see sig for idle/rev clip. It's got a pcm for less tune on it that I think is the problem, but now what it does is load up and foul the plugs out, I have to take all 8 out, clean em, re install, and the car will start right up, but sooner or later, the same thing happens, runs rich and dies... Car is still open headers, but everything else is finished on the car, just want to drive it. I noticed that the air filter on my CAI was pretty dirty, but I haven't had the chance to clean the plugs again and try it without that filter..

And for what its worth, the car went through a foot puddle in July with the stock motor, but this is the same maf and filter that got soaked, car hydro locked and snapped a stock rod..
From what I read in your sig you have done extensive work however what buggs me is that 110 LSA. I think this is just a little out of hand. 112 max for anything on the street. You would almost have to have a vac. pump to keep the vac. to computer specs at an idle. That cam is made for WOT and thats about it. But there could be other issues.
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Old Mar 21, 2008 | 01:54 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Smokinlt1
How well does it run before she stalls out? If your O2s are fairly new and the car ran good before, I would get a scanner and see if the Coolant Temp Sensor is reading correctly. If it reads a minus anything, it dumps fuel and can cause plugs to foul very quickly. The computer thinks the motor needs the extra gas to start and run if the reading is a minus. It's the sensor that screws into the waterpump, the one on the side of the head is for your gauge.

You might already know all that but I figured I'd throw out a different opinion. I had a PCMfor less tune when I had the Hotcam kit and it was very rich. Pulled the plugs to verify it was rich.
Would the car have to be running with the scanner connected to check it, or could I just try to start the car for a while, hook up the modus and see some sort of data log or something?
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Old Mar 21, 2008 | 06:28 AM
  #23  
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It doesn't have to be running, just turned to the run position. Then look in the datastream and look at the Coolant Temp Sensor readings. It should be within a couple of degrees of the outside temp or garage temp, if it reads in the - then it's bad. I haven't used Snap-On Modus since my last job(2.5yrs), we use Genysis at my current job. I can't remember if the Modus has datastream, I'm pretty sure it does.
If the CTS checks out ok, since you already have the scanner hooked up you can look at the rest of the data.
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Old Mar 21, 2008 | 09:27 AM
  #24  
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I'm not really sure how to use the thing for more than a code scanner but I'll try and figure it out lol, thanks.
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Old Mar 27, 2008 | 02:12 PM
  #25  
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Does anyone else have any idea why the car would be giving me this trouble, besides whats been listed so far; Open headers causing mixxed up 02 readings, and the Coolant Temp Sensor reading negitive? I can use the Modus to check the 02's to make sure their working can't I?
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Old Apr 2, 2008 | 07:24 AM
  #26  
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Alright, engine temp sensor is working, and heres the codes I pulled
p0100
p0336
p0500
p1351
p1533
p1652

And the bank 1 sensor is reading 104mv with the car off, where's the bank 2 is reading 425mv... cars off with open headers again...

Any ideas why shes running so pig rich? Could it be the MAF? I know I have the code for the maf, p0100 but isn't that just effect closed loop?
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Old Apr 2, 2008 | 03:40 PM
  #27  
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Alright started car today with modus hooked up, and the car ran beautifully for about a min or so, until the coolant temp was about 150 degrees, the bank one o2 stayed steady at ~4-9mv's the whole time, so I'm guessing that's bad, but still, it never tried to go into closed loop, so that shouldn't matter...

Im gonna check fuel pressure friday when I get some time next, see if I kinked the return line or the FPR is fudged up.... Im really at a loss at this time..

Does the MAF do anything in open loop?
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Old Apr 2, 2008 | 04:34 PM
  #28  
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a bad o2 sensor could cause the car to not go into closed loop
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What does your MAP sensor read in KPA at idle, and while giving it RPM. Are you able to data log and get different RPMS?
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Old Apr 2, 2008 | 05:47 PM
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I should be able to get readings for you Friday...
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Old Apr 3, 2008 | 04:18 PM
  #31  
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Eng Sen Fuse was blown, replaced it and the car started right up and ran great, best it has, and once it got to 170 degrees it just shut off, I read the codes again and came up with a crank shaft positioning sensor code, gonna replace that tomorrow and see what that does... Other than that I have a bum driverside 02 sensor... I'll keep it updated.
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