onefastbird95

iTrader: (4)

I am trying to select what type of oil to put in my supercharged LT1 was thinking about Royal Purpla Synthetic 5w/20? I just purchased royal purple gear fluid for my new gears and I know they have a lot of quality products out. Opinions?

r_trigg

iTrader: (1)

I have used Royal Purple for years. it is great stuff IMHO. Years ago I hit a large chunck of debris or a rock on the road...it made a huge thud under the car. Anyway, I was worried, but I had no idea I had knocked my oil filter off. I was driving along for a while before I noticed the low oil pressure light...several miles anyway.

I don't know how long the oil pressure had been at ZERO.

Anyway, I pulled to the side of the road and called my wife. I collected the necessary tools and parts to put a new oil filter on and added more Royal Purple...which is what I had in the car during the ZERO pressure episode.

The car cranked back up and never missed a beat. Some YEARS later I took the engine apart to install a 396 rotating assembly. The the bearings looked great. Only a few minor scratches...probably from debris rather than loss of oil film.

I really believe in this stuff!

onefastbird95

iTrader: (4)

Thats awesome! I live by summit racing retail store and they carry all the royal purple products so I will probably pick some up there. I don't know if they make transmission fluid or not, I may look into that as well since I am going to be changing that as well.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

You are far from the only one with a similar story and the only one I heard attribute it to Royal Purple.

A tiny percentage of us have actually done research on oils outside of reading advertizements and we have posted that info. I could give you links but maybe if I make you search for it and dig a little the information will stick better.

Here is a hint, if the oil "performance" reviews are not accompanied by "used oil analysis" reports then it is not measured data, it is no better than the guy who descreens his MAF and swears a huge seat of the pants improvement . Everyone wants measured data on engine mods in the form of track and dyno numbers but for some reason rely COMPLETELY on marketing BS when it comes to oil "information". A UOA is a measure of wear metal content in used oil what better test could there be??

Jon@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (3)

I ran 5w30 pennzoil in the formula for the first 5500 miles and switched to Klotz. They wanted some dyno runs done and my car is very consistent. I made several pulls all of which were within 1-2 hp of each other and did an oil change while it was on the dyno. The car picked up 6 rwhp at peak and 10 elsewhere in the powerband. I have not been back to the track to validate any further and at this point have made too many changes to tell what the oil really did. If you want hp, I'm sure any of the synthetics will gain you some. All the oil these days are pretty good for longevity. The synthetic may be a little cooler running for you since that is what us supercharged guys battle most.

onefastbird95

iTrader: (4)

Your post didn't really answer my question on whether Royal Purple Synthetic Oil was good or how it compares? GM High Tech performance rated it as one of the top 10 bolt on mods for the LT1 in a previous issue... that is what struck my interest in Royal Purple to begin with...So have you or one of the tiny percentage done research with Royal Purple?

r_trigg

iTrader: (1)

To answer your question, RP makes just about everything but brake fluid I have in my rear end, power steering, transmission, and even "purple ice" in my radiator.

FWIW, I have NO affiliation...just years of using it with success. I live in Houston and RP is in Humble, TX (suburb of houston) I used them on the industrial side well before they tried to market the automotive side. I started using RP in my car when it was only available in 5 gallon buckets...and I drove to Humble to get it!

Anyway, it is good stuff.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

You will be MUCH better off when you realize magazines are ****** to the advertizers, they come damned close to lying for advertizers on a monthy basis.

If you think a HP gain is the measure of an oil, well you apparently do not know what oil is supposed to do.

RP does not do particularly well in street LT1s and LS1s, other engines yes and for race use fine too. Street use places different demands on an oil though.

Thinking a brand is blindly good is about the same as thinking lift is the only cam spec that matters, several popular quality oils do NOT do well in these engines. They can be great in other engines though.

Castrol Syntec 0w-30 specifically labled "made in Germany" is the best oil going for LT1s and LS1s based on actual wear metal and oil condition MEASUREMENTS from real world use. I can not stress the word MEASUREMENTS enough, the overwhelming majority of replies oil threads get here are based on no actual data.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/whatisoilanalysis.htm
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php

buffman

iTrader: (9)

Royal Purple over the past few years has become a decent oil with sometimes great UOAs in certain vehicles. That being said the price you pay for it doesn't make it the best bang for the buck. Couple that with your prolly decided 3000 mile OCI and you're going to be dumping $$$ down the drain.

My advice would be if the engine is already broken in (not brand new or anything) give the oil a try. Go through a few OCI with it. On the third OCI pay to have a Used Oil analysis done. They're not a tell all thing, but they're a very good indication on how well the oil is performing in your application. Bobistheoilguy.com is a great place to get people to look at your UOAs. If the oil is doing well, then by all means continue to use it. But there is nothing wrong with Pennzoil Platinum, Valvoline Max Life Full Synthetic, Mobil 1, Castrol Syntec, Amsoil, etc.

I used to run your standard valvoline oil in my RMS. I dont know what it had before I bought it But I know they changed it every 3000 miles and they took a lot of long trips with it, so I had no concern with having an engine that wasn't treated well. For awhile I was using the durablend stuff from valvoline. I had started doing reading about Mobil 1s 0w40 and 5w40 oils. I ended up trying the 0w40 cause I couldn't find the 5w40. Over 3 Oil changes (13,000 miles; 2 5k OCIs, and one 3K) and three UOA, M1 was showing higher than normal iron counts, not to mention some higher lead counts. Could have been normal cleaning though. the last UOA had shown the sample had signs of heat stress on it. A synthetic oil is good for 300+ degree oil temps. My Temps never go above 250 degrees, and those might even be skewed by senders location. I've read some people have had great UOAs and excellent results with the M1 0w40, but then again some engines just don't like it.

So I've dropped the M1 and have gone to German Castrol. I haven't had enough time to get a good amount of miles on the car to send in an oil sample, but I plan on it this year since I can get the car out in a couple weeks and drive it all summer long.

Magazines are pure BS advertisements 99% of the time. Super Chevy has been building a budget 9c1 caprice. They've done just about all of the mainstream stuff, and it took them Nitrous to even run 13.5s.... Their level 10 converter couldn't even help them outta the hole before nitrous.

onefastbird95

iTrader: (4)

My other concern is with a supercharger I am going to have to select a different oil than with just a regular Lt1 motor. Vortech recommends something along the lines of 5w/20... So I don't know if selecting an oil for my application is going to be someone different than selecting an oil based for a stock LT1?