95 vs. 00
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Teching In
Joined: Mar 2008
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95 vs. 00 My friend has a WS6 2000 trans am with an auto transmission. I have a 95 Trans am With an auto transmission. for around $1000 what can i do to make my car equal or a little faster. in the 1/4 mile. Does any one know what would be a good set up to take on a ws6. I was thinking 275/40/17 nitto or MT drag radials, with pacesetter headers to a y pipe and a moroso cold air intake?
don't know what your friend is running but a converter and some mt radials should make you about .5 quicker if you get a good stall converter. 3-3200 rpm would probably work out well for you.
Full bolton's - stall, gears, cai, LT's, full exhaust and remove extra weight you should be close then it becomes a drivers race n/a. low 13's or so.
Assuming the ws6 is stock, you didnt mention any mods on it.
Assuming the ws6 is stock, you didnt mention any mods on it.
Last edited by LT1; Apr 27, 2008 at 03:55 PM.
A. Spray it... probably the cheapest and easiest route to go
B. Stall it... complemented by tires, a cooler and a shift kits will really wake an auto up
C. Cam it... many choices out there that can both create great power and remain very streetable
D. Gear it... steeper gears and a good suspension with a small diet would put you in a pretty good position
All of these complemented by a good mail order tune (although a dyno tune is better) will get everything set up the way you want and will gain you a few more ponies as well.
B. Stall it... complemented by tires, a cooler and a shift kits will really wake an auto up
C. Cam it... many choices out there that can both create great power and remain very streetable
D. Gear it... steeper gears and a good suspension with a small diet would put you in a pretty good position
All of these complemented by a good mail order tune (although a dyno tune is better) will get everything set up the way you want and will gain you a few more ponies as well.
Uh... you guys saying the converter.... If it's a street race then it's kinda worthless. My brothers BONE stock Formula was neck and neck with me when I was stalled ON THE STREET.
And if the street race gets above 90 or so you will be obliterated. No matter what.
Nitrous is THE ONLY "equalizer" for that cheap 50-70 shot (ON THE STREET!!!)
The strip is completely different.
At the strip then a manual rear end (3.42s) and stall and sticky tires and you will easily have him.
LTs, 3.73s, intake, tune and you should be neck and neck
150 shot and you should easily take him.
And if the street race gets above 90 or so you will be obliterated. No matter what.
Nitrous is THE ONLY "equalizer" for that cheap 50-70 shot (ON THE STREET!!!)
The strip is completely different.
At the strip then a manual rear end (3.42s) and stall and sticky tires and you will easily have him.
LTs, 3.73s, intake, tune and you should be neck and neck
150 shot and you should easily take him.
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,419
Likes: 1
From: Holland Twp/Milford, New Jersey
Uh... you guys saying the converter.... If it's a street race then it's kinda worthless. My brothers BONE stock Formula was neck and neck with me when I was stalled ON THE STREET.
And if the street race gets above 90 or so you will be obliterated. No matter what.
Nitrous is THE ONLY "equalizer" for that cheap 50-70 shot (ON THE STREET!!!)
The strip is completely different.
At the strip then a manual rear end (3.42s) and stall and sticky tires and you will easily have him.
LTs, 3.73s, intake, tune and you should be neck and neck
150 shot and you should easily take him.
And if the street race gets above 90 or so you will be obliterated. No matter what.
Nitrous is THE ONLY "equalizer" for that cheap 50-70 shot (ON THE STREET!!!)
The strip is completely different.
At the strip then a manual rear end (3.42s) and stall and sticky tires and you will easily have him.
LTs, 3.73s, intake, tune and you should be neck and neck
150 shot and you should easily take him.
a stall and gears and sticky tires may provide a good race, but the LS1 will still yield higher trap speeds with these mods.
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Teching In
Joined: Mar 2008
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basically in my area most people are running sti's, evo's, and this ws6 trans am. Im just trying to see what i can get out of my LT1 with out dumping to much money in it i already had the LT1 rebuilt now its 355ci with a stock cam. Im just trying to figure out a good set up to be equal with these types of cars. From a dig.
Last edited by garrett18; Apr 27, 2008 at 10:44 PM.
Ok and I still answered that question. Yet you look at his post above this one and it seems as though he isn't just talking about the track.
basically in my area most people are running sti's, evo's, and this ws6 trans am. Im just trying to see what i can get out of my LT1 with out dumping to much money in it i already had the LT1 rebuilt now its 355ci with a stock cam. Im just trying to figure out a good set up to be equal with these types of cars. From a dig.
Basically an LS1 runs 13.3ish@104ish in auto form. So that's what you want to shoot for.
Headers, gears, intake, tune, catback/cutout will get you to the 104 range.
Stall, sticky tires will destroy them from a launch.
A combination of both and you won't be caught by a stock LS1 A4.
Throw in the rest of the boltons and you should see mid-high 12s.
I'd do Headers ($285), True duals ($130 and your choice of muffler), K&N CAI ($235)...that leaves about $500 left over, snag up a set of gears and toss a friend a little cash and a case of beer to put em in and you'll walk all over him.
I beat my friend in his auto '98 T/A when he had a lid (stock 2.72 gears) and I had a intake and a axle-back exhaust (we hacked up a 3rdgen catback) and stock 3.23s, so it's not as hard as you might think. I am a 'vert too so I was definately heavier.
I beat my friend in his auto '98 T/A when he had a lid (stock 2.72 gears) and I had a intake and a axle-back exhaust (we hacked up a 3rdgen catback) and stock 3.23s, so it's not as hard as you might think. I am a 'vert too so I was definately heavier.