WS Sick

Those heads are don't impress me too much , unless they just move air like a
son of a gun.


I have built several budget and top shelf 383s and if you're knowledgeable and assemble it yourself you can save allot of coin on the bottom end, but the top end you can't skimp on.

My latest budget built that I assembled myself was decently priced.

I got a 4340 non-twist eagle crank for dirt, some Scat Pro mod rods, and some discontinued TRW (speed Pro Pistons) the pistons I had orignially bought a set of LW speed pro dished pistons (coated) , but sold them and had these pieces machined to a -12cc dish after machining they still cost less than the others I bought.

The machine work on the shortblock was more than the price of my rotating assembly. I ended up with 11.1:1 compression and a fully forged bottom end, splayed mains etc.

the machine work they did for me.. Vatting, Sonic checking,bore and hone (with torque plates),line honing, installing the caps, installing the freeze plugs,installing the cam bearings, decking to "0", installing dowels and oil galley plugs, checking lifter bores and alignment,lightening crank,balancing crank,pistons, and rods,machining pistons, decking heads (to true up only), adding 2.05 intake valves, and valvejob, correcting intake manifold, and verifying the valve guides.

The heads I had from my previous motor (also a 383) and they are AFR 190s. I have no gripes with them.

I assembled the motor myself and save a few hundreds by doing that, I also clearanced the block for the crank and rods, removed all casting flash from the block , enlarged oil drainback holes, enlarged the oil inlet on the rear main cap and blended, screened the holes forward in the lifter valley and around the lifters, and made my own deep sump oil pan (8 1/4 deep, holds 7 quarts).

This motor with the custom cam I bought is around 3000$ but keep in mind I already had the heads.

My previous 383 was cheaper with a whole used rotating assembly and alot less machine work.

I basicly had them only vat the block bore it, balance the rotating assembly and have them install the cam bearings and freeze and oil plugs.

The pistons on that motor had an -18 cc dish and compression with the stock deck height was about 9.6 or so to 1, it ran good (11.40s @ 120 mph) but the converter balooned and ruined the thrust surface of the cast steel crank (no welding on a cast steel crank). so I figured since I had to replace a crank I build the motor mentioned on top.

But if you have someone do all the machining and assembly, and have to buy all the top end I would still say that 7000 would be on the conservative side for a quality build. I would say more in the 12 to 15000 range for the motor and all supporting mods like injectors, fuel pump,tuning, and exhaust and drivetrain stuff.

OutlawZ

iTrader: (4)

7K is VERY reasonable if you are talking EVERYTHING..... Hell a stock replacement motor that has been rebuilt is gonna be about 3000-4000..... 7K is nothing.... If someone tells you 7K add 25% to that and that's what it will end up coming out to.......

Believe me I know.... My stroker was 15-16K just motor... factor everything else in like injectors, fuel system, engine mgmt system, coil, and electronics and i'm easily 22-25K in......

SS MPSTR

iTrader: (1)

25% is a good rule of thumb to account for the little things - that is what will kill you. Add more if there are any 'exclusions' to the deal by your builder. For instance, who's re-installing the engine?

hawk584

iTrader: (1)

Leading Edge Performance in Las Vegas is doing the motor pull and install.