LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8
View Poll Results: Best clutch for the $$
O'Reilly's OEM + McLeod disc
20
15.50%
RAM Powergrip
8
6.20%
RAM Powergrip HD
22
17.05%
RAM Premium Replacement
2
1.55%
RAM HDX
8
6.20%
Spec Stage 1
4
3.10%
Spec Stage 2
14
10.85%
Spec Stage 3
37
28.68%
Spec Stage 4
9
6.98%
Zoom MU
5
3.88%
Voters: 129. You may not vote on this poll

VOTE: Best clutch for $$

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Old May 5, 2008 | 03:50 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Spiers
Well I just ordered an OEM replacement from O'Reilly's and the McLeod 7500 rpm Kevlar disc. Should be installed on Wednesday.

Total ~$400
Thats what I run in a cam only LT1 with a 100 shot on top, no complaints here.
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Old May 5, 2008 | 06:45 PM
  #22  
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Should I replace the slave cylinder while I'm at it or is that just for the LS1 folks?
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Old May 6, 2008 | 04:28 PM
  #23  
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I love my Spec 4 clutch.. Ya it will chatter just a little at traffic lights if you dont slip the clutch right, but it works everytime.. and has just at 8k miles on it.. still going..

The slave cylinder should not need to be replaced.. but some do it just for re-assurance.. How many miles on the car?
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Old May 6, 2008 | 08:58 PM
  #24  
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Ive ran my spec stage 3 for a few years on my 440 rwhp z and have loved it. Just recently has it started slipping. Does anyone know what the difference between the stage 3 and stage 3+ is? I would like to rebuild my clutch if possible. Could i just put a stage 3+ disk in it?
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Old May 6, 2008 | 10:05 PM
  #25  
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My slave is toast. So is the throwout bearing. Getting the clutch in tomorrow

And Im pretty sure the only difference between the Spec clutches is the disc itself.
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Old May 12, 2008 | 01:59 PM
  #26  
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did you buy your disc from a vendor or right from mccloud? how much did the clutch run ya at the parts store? do you have the part # of the disc, im looking to do the same setup
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Old May 12, 2008 | 09:12 PM
  #27  
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The basic clutch kit I got was about $200 from O'Reilly's, and the McLeod disc is available at Thunder Racing... PN# 37-261871 for ~$180

http://thunderracing.com/catalog/?ac...&vid=4&pcid=72
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Old May 12, 2008 | 10:40 PM
  #28  
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I have a Ram Powergrip and it has been great. Put it in 3yrs/7k ago and pulled the trans today. It looks damn near perfect, no hot spots on the flywheel or PP either. I have done several 1.8x 60's on it and it has never missed a beat. Back in she goes!

A friend of mine had a McLeod single disc that just blew apart on the 1-2 shift at the track. He only had like 1k miles on it and was making 380rwhp. It was just a center hub and everything else fell out in pieces.
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Old May 19, 2008 | 10:45 AM
  #29  
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Just another option on the market from Zoom...

We thought that some of you would like to see proof rather than just read about it.

Mike Peters is a professional drifter and his weapon of chioce may appear to be a Nissan 240, but it packs a LS Magnacharged power plant that we thought would be a great test bed for a Zoom D2 twin disc clutch set up.

Now for those that have not had seat time in a drift car you should know that 'clutch kicking' is one of three techniques of initiating a drift. You'll see Mike doing so... at over 6000RPM in this video link!

PS. He installed this Twin Disc over a year ago and is still running it today!

Enjoy!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LhQXEz06v7s

mMay want to keep Zoom products as an option.

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Old May 19, 2008 | 01:18 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by zoomclutch
Just another option on the market from Zoom...

We thought that some of you would like to see proof rather than just read about it.

Mike Peters is a professional drifter and his weapon of chioce may appear to be a Nissan 240, but it packs a LS Magnacharged power plant that we thought would be a great test bed for a Zoom D2 twin disc clutch set up.

Now for those that have not had seat time in a drift car you should know that 'clutch kicking' is one of three techniques of initiating a drift. You'll see Mike doing so... at over 6000RPM in this video link!

PS. He installed this Twin Disc over a year ago and is still running it today!

Enjoy!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LhQXEz06v7s

mMay want to keep Zoom products as an option.

Ok.....but what do you offer for LTx motors??? Since this is the LT1 section.....?
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Old May 21, 2008 | 08:32 AM
  #31  
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Love my RAM Powergrip
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Old Jul 3, 2008 | 07:40 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by transamws6_97
well this is taken straight from their site

"For heavily modified engines or engines of any modification level being used in the above driving environments, where an instantaneous engagement and light weight are beneficial. Not street-friendly due to harsh engagement."
Depends on the person. It is extremely instantaneous, but there are ways around its agressive nature. Also, the chatter thing is true. You can make the clutch chatter, however if you are capable of learning how to stay away from making the clutch chatter (which is very easy) then you will have no problems.
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Old Jul 7, 2008 | 06:40 PM
  #33  
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I'm not a fan of spec clutches for DD. I have a powergrip HDX now and am happy with it so far... Its much smoother engagement. Cant say I've felt it slip any but, I haven't gone racing yet with it.
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Old Jul 9, 2008 | 08:31 AM
  #34  
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Not sure what an Orielly OEM + McLeod is, but I have used the McLeod disk itself with my stock flywheel if that's what you meant, worked great, really great in fact. I recommend turning the flywheel though for a better surface area.
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Old Jul 9, 2008 | 03:41 PM
  #35  
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I just got done putting in my RAM powergrip. I like it so far no chatter and so far feels like stock. I will find out how it handles the track with my S60 and DR's.
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Old Jul 9, 2008 | 04:13 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Steve in Seattle
Too bad the best clutch out there isn't listed.

McLeod Street Twin.

For $1100 I got an aluminum twin disk capable of more HP and anything above, PLUS it was NICE to daily drive, strong enough to outlast 3 10-bolt rearends, and 160,000 miles. When we pulled it (to replace the engine with a 396 last month) it still had plenty of friction pad left.

I'd never buy a different clutch for a LTx. Not for a stock one, and definitely not for my 500+hp 396.
So where can I buy this for $1100, cause if I can find that I'm buyin it.
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Old Jul 22, 2008 | 11:43 AM
  #37  
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Default SPEC 3+ = Too much chatter / Not forgiving

Originally Posted by transamws6_97
Well, this is taken straight from their site:

"For heavily modified engines or engines of any modification level being used in the above driving environments, where an instantaneous engagement and light weight are beneficial. Not street-friendly due to harsh engagement."
Originally Posted by SS RRR
Depends on the person. It is extremely instantaneous, but there are ways around its agressive nature. Also, the chatter thing is true. You can make the clutch chatter, however if you are capable of learning how to stay away from making the clutch chatter (which is very easy) then you will have no problems.
I "learned" how to slip the second SPEC 3+ clutch after the first one died after about 20K miles; the second lasted all of 4 months! (WTF!)

No - not playing that little game again. I thought the SPEC 3+ was great fun, but I'm just not willing to pay that amount of $$$ every X number of months thank you very much! Andy at South Bend Clutch says he can fix my problem so it'll never happen again - I'll keep everyone posted.
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Old Aug 19, 2008 | 07:21 PM
  #38  
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dont even get me started on spec clutches, they are total pieces of ****. I had one in my 88 turbocoupe, now its heavily modified, but i dont beat on it, no burn outs, no slicks,ect ect, anyway in the 4 years i had it, i put MAYBE 2000 miles on it, and the hub broke away from the casing while i was on the highway, Lucky enough for me i had enough momentum toget off the highway and pull into a parking lot so i wasnt stuck in the middle of 65mph highway. I have a truck and trailor so i tow it home rip it apart, and everything looks brand new. i call them up and tell them maybe i got a faulty clutch and the guy basically says my transmission is messed up or i put it in wrong, giving me every excuse in the book, i didnt even want another one of their junk clutches and the guy couldnt admit i got a junk **** clutch from them.
Anyway my dad has been building high performance cars for 45 years, i work with race porsches and retromodded muscle cars with 700hp fuel injected big blocks everyday, we will never put a spec clutch in another car ever again
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Old Sep 12, 2008 | 08:34 PM
  #39  
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your geting a spec get the 3+ not the 3
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Old Sep 12, 2008 | 09:56 PM
  #40  
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I'm going the custom route. Its supposedly going to come in under $500. Eh, we will see how it goes.
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