383 LT1 runs 13.30's
Well plans now are a 28" tall DR and a 9in with a 456 gear and then a full dyno tune so we'll see what happens 
05-15-2008, 12:19 AM
#44
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well i think first a dyno tune is in order LONG before he gets any of those parts or gears......
figure out how much power it's got on the dyno. if it's way down throwing a bunch of money and gear ratios at it is not going to fix it. In fact with only 106 mph in trap speed a 28" drag radial is the LAST thing he needs.... He'll bog it so bad it'll cut a 2.7 sec 60'.... and a 4.56 gear is a little steep unless he's got a solid roller cam and some HONKIN heads.....
you guys should take a step back, look at the combo, DYNO it first and figure out where you stand. If it's way low on power tire and gear is not going to solve it. At that point start isolating problems and eliminating possibilities...
I'm trying to save your buddy an a$$load of cash..... 28" DR's, 4.56's and worse timeslips will be expensive....
Dyno tune is a few hundred bucks if that....
figure out how much power it's got on the dyno. if it's way down throwing a bunch of money and gear ratios at it is not going to fix it. In fact with only 106 mph in trap speed a 28" drag radial is the LAST thing he needs.... He'll bog it so bad it'll cut a 2.7 sec 60'.... and a 4.56 gear is a little steep unless he's got a solid roller cam and some HONKIN heads.....
you guys should take a step back, look at the combo, DYNO it first and figure out where you stand. If it's way low on power tire and gear is not going to solve it. At that point start isolating problems and eliminating possibilities...
I'm trying to save your buddy an a$$load of cash..... 28" DR's, 4.56's and worse timeslips will be expensive....
Dyno tune is a few hundred bucks if that....
05-15-2008, 12:31 AM
#45
So a friend of mine just got his new motor together a few months ago and recently got to the track and his best time was a 13.36@106 with a 2.23 short time on street tires. Heres the mods:
383 LT1 11.1:1 CR
236/242 cam
Ported Trickflow heads with valve job 2.04/1.6 I believe
TSP stg 3 T-56 with spec stg 3 clutch
342 rearend
full weight
Mail order tune by Mad Z
383 LT1 11.1:1 CR
236/242 cam
Ported Trickflow heads with valve job 2.04/1.6 I believe
TSP stg 3 T-56 with spec stg 3 clutch
342 rearend
full weight
Mail order tune by Mad Z
05-15-2008, 03:12 AM
#48
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[QUOTE=OutlawZ;9366963]well i think first a dyno tune is in order LONG before he gets any of those parts or gears......
In fact with only 106 mph in trap speed a 28" drag radial is the LAST thing he needs.... He'll bog it so bad it'll cut a 2.7 sec 60'.... and a 4.56 gear is a little steep unless he's got a solid roller cam and some HONKIN heads.....
QUOTE]
I dont see why a gear would do anything but help. A 456 gear with a 28" tall tire would be pretty close to the same gearing as a stock tire height and a 410 combo. In fact I had a 95 Z a few yrs back with a 28 tire 456 gear shorty headers and front sway bar delete and a CAI, and a hyper crap tune and managed 12.8 no weight taken out. Worked well for me.
Why wouldnt it work for this car?
In fact with only 106 mph in trap speed a 28" drag radial is the LAST thing he needs.... He'll bog it so bad it'll cut a 2.7 sec 60'.... and a 4.56 gear is a little steep unless he's got a solid roller cam and some HONKIN heads.....
QUOTE]
I dont see why a gear would do anything but help. A 456 gear with a 28" tall tire would be pretty close to the same gearing as a stock tire height and a 410 combo. In fact I had a 95 Z a few yrs back with a 28 tire 456 gear shorty headers and front sway bar delete and a CAI, and a hyper crap tune and managed 12.8 no weight taken out. Worked well for me.
Why wouldnt it work for this car?
05-15-2008, 03:16 AM
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05-16-2008, 03:33 PM
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I dont see why a gear would do anything but help. A 456 gear with a 28" tall tire would be pretty close to the same gearing as a stock tire height and a 410 combo. In fact I had a 95 Z a few yrs back with a 28 tire 456 gear shorty headers and front sway bar delete and a CAI, and a hyper crap tune and managed 12.8 no weight taken out. Worked well for me. Why wouldnt it work for this car
If he's trapping 106 a 28" tire will do nothing but bog his motor..... I was trapping 119mph in the 1/4 on motor and when i swapped to 28's my motor bogged..... With a 3.89 gear....
What i'm saying is figure out why his car is only running 106 in the quarter... something is wrong. I ran 106 with near stock LT1 with a few bolt ons.... If he has a 383 with the mods you listed if he's not in the one hundred teens for MPH he either got robbed by his engine builder or something is wrong..... Throwing parts and gears and tires at a car that is 85% probability of having some issues engine related is not going to solve anything but making his wallet lighter....
but it's his car.... if he wants to throw more money at it feel free...
05-17-2008, 10:58 AM
#51
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Okay so why don't you run 26" slicks and a 4.10 gear and keep some semblance of gas mileage when you are NOT drag racing.... that 4.56 gear is gonna be real fun when he puts his street tires back on... NOT...
If he's trapping 106 a 28" tire will do nothing but bog his motor..... I was trapping 119mph in the 1/4 on motor and when i swapped to 28's my motor bogged..... With a 3.89 gear....
What i'm saying is figure out why his car is only running 106 in the quarter... something is wrong. I ran 106 with near stock LT1 with a few bolt ons.... If he has a 383 with the mods you listed if he's not in the one hundred teens for MPH he either got robbed by his engine builder or something is wrong..... Throwing parts and gears and tires at a car that is 85% probability of having some issues engine related is not going to solve anything but making his wallet lighter....
but it's his car.... if he wants to throw more money at it feel free...
If he's trapping 106 a 28" tire will do nothing but bog his motor..... I was trapping 119mph in the 1/4 on motor and when i swapped to 28's my motor bogged..... With a 3.89 gear....
What i'm saying is figure out why his car is only running 106 in the quarter... something is wrong. I ran 106 with near stock LT1 with a few bolt ons.... If he has a 383 with the mods you listed if he's not in the one hundred teens for MPH he either got robbed by his engine builder or something is wrong..... Throwing parts and gears and tires at a car that is 85% probability of having some issues engine related is not going to solve anything but making his wallet lighter....
but it's his car.... if he wants to throw more money at it feel free...
Well It shouldnt bog down with a 456 gear, theres a big difference between a 389 and a 456. As far as why is because I guess he likes the looks of the 28" tire better and the fact it has more sidewall for better traction. I agree the trap speed is an issue, but I think maybe after a dyno tune so the engine can be revved to the right RPM and getting the car to hook then he should be in the onehundred teens, if not then maybe the engine builder did rob him and maybe didnt port the heads of something...
06-03-2008, 09:08 PM
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Well finally got this car dyno'd and tuned and think we figured out a good part of the problem. I dont have the grapg in front of me but I do remember this:
Pulls were done on a mustang dyno.
Origional run-326RWHP
After a few hours of tuning, finally got 394RWHP
Does this sound abought right?
Dont remember the RWTQ but I belive it was around 360-370
If I remember right the peak RWHP was right at around 5600-5800
Pulls were done on a mustang dyno.
Origional run-326RWHP
After a few hours of tuning, finally got 394RWHP
Does this sound abought right?
Dont remember the RWTQ but I belive it was around 360-370
If I remember right the peak RWHP was right at around 5600-5800
06-05-2008, 08:24 AM
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The bottom line is it's been said here before when you find out what is keeping it from getting the MPH's then worry about the 60' times it should be a low 12 to high 11 second car. If not going for a full dyno tune, I would at least have it run on the dyno to make sure it is pushing close to the power that it should be. This will let you guys know if it truly is a HP issue
06-05-2008, 12:40 PM
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well i think first a dyno tune is in order LONG before he gets any of those parts or gears......
figure out how much power it's got on the dyno. if it's way down throwing a bunch of money and gear ratios at it is not going to fix it
you guys should take a step back, look at the combo, DYNO it first and figure out where you stand. If it's way low on power tire and gear is not going to solve it. At that point start isolating problems and eliminating possibilities...
I'm trying to save your buddy an a$$load of cash..... 28" DR's, 4.56's and worse timeslips will be expensive....
I'm trying to save your buddy an a$$load of cash..... 28" DR's, 4.56's and worse timeslips will be expensive....
Two 28" DR's-about $400 ish
4.56 gears plus install-$500-600
tell your buddy to just mail me a check for a grand and we'll call it even...
06-05-2008, 03:04 PM
#58
I agree. 70 horsepower for $300 is a darn good investment. Like was said above now he can work on the other things. Even with the weight he should have a low 12 or high 11 second car.
Like was said above now he can work on the other things. Even with the weight he should have a low 12 or high 11 second car.
06-07-2008, 07:35 PM
#59
well id deff check the knock sensor first of all. and second making power is all in the combo. you could have the best parts in the world but if they dont work together its a waist of time. a high rpm part and a low rpm part together do not equal best of bolth worlds
