Revelation Z28

iTrader: (10)

well after having lower oil pressure than usual from the **** thin M1 10-30 and 10-40, i decided to get GC, but autozone doesnt have it anymore. my closest BMW/VW dealer is about 20-30 miles away so i just picked up RP 10-30 and tried it out. i read up on how guys experienced a smoother idle with it, so i wanted to see for myself.

after i let the M1 drain for an hour and put the new filter on, i went to pour the first quart in. the reaction i had when it was pouring was unbelieveable, it looked exactly like welch's grape soda after i put 5 1/4 quarts in i went to start it, and noticed right away my warm-hot idle psi was at 30psi compared to 15-18 with M1. i still had the usual ticking sound from the lifters.

took the car off the ramps and parked it in the garage running and about 2 min later with the hood open the ticking all of a sudden died off and the engine sounded just as quiet as my dad's 4.8 in the truck. .

today was the first drive and test, and on a cold start the pressure was at 60psi and anything on load from 1500rpm-3500rpm was between 30 and 45psi. compared to the M1 25-35psi.

overall im impressed with the absense of the ticking on idle. i still need lifters and i need to put the GM white spring in my oil pump when i replace the pan gasket and pan. also my pan kind of dented in when i did headers and the jack and 2x4 was putting upwards tension on the pan.

Elliott's94Z

iTrader: (12)

I'm running Royale Purple synth myself and damn has it got expensive!!

95hitam6

iTrader: (1)

i use M1 5-30 and my oil pressure has always been good, was thinking about switching to RP, but still not if its better.

chris8835

I'm also running Royal Purple 10w-30. It's good stuff, just very expensive.

caldercay

I experienced the exact same improvements when I switched to R.P (10/40)

95ZRagtop6M

Interesting... I use M1 10-30, but may try RP next. I just put RP Synchromax in the tranny and it smoothed up shifting a lot. Was previously using M1 ATF.

djjab57

iTrader: (17)

I guess ill be trying it next i hope i get the same results. Ive always use m1 but my pressure seems low to me

lt1 hawk

iTrader: (2)

two quick questions on this... How much are we talking about for a box of 6L of RP? The other question, is this something that is really only nesacarry (sp?) for high HP engines?

Spiers

iTrader: (7)

I run RP 5-30 or 10-30...haven't really noticed a difference, mostly just peace of mind, knowing my baby's getting the best money can buy.

Oil change is ~$35

BOLO

iTrader: (40)

Mobil 1, Royal Purple, Red Line, are some of the best synthetic oils out there. Take your pick.

C Man

Just wondering with guys with built motors and RP.

I do experience a little oil consumption with Mobil 1... but not a lot. I have a friend with a built LS1 that experienced more with RP, and went back to Mobil1 (same grade of Oil)

Also... doesn't GM sell an additive that you can put into the oil, which often quiets it down... and lubes all the seals, etc.? I can't remember what it's called... but I remember trying it years ago, in the Camaro as well as a Mazda MPV (don't ask)... and the drivetrain got a lot quieter. This may be a less expensive way to go.

TXFORMULA

isnt it normal to hear some valvetrain noise until the valvetrain warms up ?

ThoR294

iTrader: (6)

yes. courtesy of hydraulic lifters

im thinking about royal purple, but my father has always used Castrol Syntec. he used it in his drag cars in the late 50s and early 60s.

Revelation Z28

iTrader: (10)

mine was the opposite, when cold itll be quiet, then as it hits 180 ill get a tick like an exhaust leak on idle, but its coming from the lifter valley on the passenger side.

383lt1impala

iTrader: (33)

was that m1 already black lol.

davidadavila

i had put in mobil one put i kept eating a whole quart of oil after 2000 miles or so, i put originally 6 quarts in, next time ima try 10 40 i think

tspence45

iTrader: (30)

I think I may have to try some RP next time. I was going to get it a week or two ago, when I did my oil change. But, changed my mind at the last minute because it was like $7.50 a quart or somewhere around there. I was thinking that I have an exhaust leak, but maybe it's the ticking like you said you were experiencing. If the RP fixed that for you, I'll definately have to give it a try.

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

My engine builder suggested either Castrol or RP if it means anything. He does build some pretty badass motors, so I'll take his wrod for it. But I'll be using Castrol 10-40 non synthetic and changing it every 2500 miles give or take a few hundred

94 F-body

iTrader: (1)

I use Royal Purple and love it in my Mazda, and I ran 10w-40 Castroil semisyntheich for years and switched to R.P. and did not look back. yes it sits around $7.00 to 8.00 a QT now but I know you can beat the **** out of your motor for 12,000 miles or more between oil changes with no worries. If you think R.P. cost a load, try "Amisoil" it was $7.50 a QT Versus R.P. over a year ago when RP was $5.25 to 5.50 a QT. but Amsoil has a longer life than R.P., I think it last around 20,000 mi of beating. But all oil has gone up, JUST REMBER once you go to full syntheich DO NOT GO AWAY FROM FULL SYNTHEICH, you will mess stuff up, so beware! Also DO NOT BRAKE A FRESH REBULD MOTOR IN WITH FULL SYNTHEICH, it will never seat any of the parts. Also the bigger the ring gap the more oil will get consummed, i.e. a 0.010 ring end gap will bure less oil than a 0.025 ring end gap.

TXFORMULA

blends are TRASH. full synthetic is the way to go. i run castrol syntec 5w-30. it supposedly handles heat really well and lt1's are known for heatsoak so i figured it was a good match.id say i see 25-30lbs of oil pressure once im warmed up and idling