lt1 hawk

iTrader: (2)

What are your thoughts on this one? I am going to be ordering an underdrive pulley soon... Is about $50 about right? What about the MACH 1?

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

Underdrive [pullies are of little use on LT1s. They are great on cars with belt driven WP that does not apply here.
IMO UDing the accessories is best left to cars that will see sustained high rpm which can harm accessories and in that case a UD damper is the better solution for better high rpm dampening and the UD as a side benifit.

lt1 hawk

iTrader: (2)

cool. But won't it still give you a little better "get up and go"?
How do you feel about 160 thermostat for a daily driver?

BattleShip

The only get up and go you will get is from the money that leaves your wallet. Save the money for a mod that will help your car. 160 can be effective--not a big plus since many cars run >180 so what would it help in a car running 180?

A colder LT1 usually does make more power but...does yours run at a temp that the therm will help?

BattleShip

Sit down and decide where your car is (go to track). Decide where you want to get the car and then window shop the changes and decide if you can afford it. If you can schedule the mods don't buy this part then that part,trust me it is cheaper to do decide what you want from the start.

Also the end result will be much better than listening to 10 people along the way. You need a system approach, the whole car approach not a few parts

Good luck

lt1 hawk

iTrader: (2)

My car tends to run around 180, as long as I am moving at a good clip. It tends to run up to 200 or a little higher if I am not moving much. I am running a cold air intake.

I have read about the free mod that you cut a hole in the bottom of the air box and attach a little "vent" to it, but it makes me nervous cutting into the car.

Formula350

iTrader: (3)

And 225 is normal temp for an LT1, so you're well under that. 236 is fan 2's kick on temp.

Elliott's94Z

iTrader: (12)

Me and my crew are running the March set up...they are nice

Elliott's94Z

iTrader: (12)

Are you saying pulleys don't do anything for you?? Off the line they add better response when you put your foot to the throttle

And as far as a 60 thermo..they are dirt cheep and are dyno proven to add a hp or 2

Elliott's94Z

iTrader: (12)

Yes they will give you a little better get up and go from a dead stop..better response from the get go..

lt1 hawk

iTrader: (2)

does anyone have dyno proof on under drive pulleys?

Formula350

iTrader: (3)

Underdrive pulleys ADD weight to the rotating assembly, so if you get one, get the one that's built into the hub. It's like $160.

UD Dyno
http://www.ws6.com/mod-2.htm

Here's a bunch of others. http://www.ws6.com/mycar.htm

Elliott's94Z

iTrader: (12)

This dyno page is a classic

Formula350

iTrader: (3)

May be, but still yet to find another site with results from just a single mod :\

Elliott's94Z

iTrader: (12)

I hear ya..I'm getn mine on the dyno next tuesday

BattleShip

I read that a professional driver can’t feel less than a 10 rwhp change, so I do not believe others will do better than someone who makes his living doing it.

Now let me ask you a question. Tell us honestly, have you ever changed the oil in your engine and felt the car ran stronger? MOST people say that, do you believe they got a hp increase? Butt dynos are the worst proof of a change good or bad.

BattleShip

Dirt cheap is not free and it seldom makes a difference in the total system since it is an on/off control once the engine is above it’s setpoint it is open, so no I do not believe it adds hp. In certain situations it helps...

A colder engine usually makes more power so at the track IF you can hold your engine to <170 they help on road sorry I do not see it helping because you are usually above 180.

Also the hp claims being made can NOT be verified because they are smaller than the ability of the dyno to meaasure the hp!

The amount they claim is less than the dyno can accurately measure! The measurement of your hp varies more than you claim you gain.

If you add up all the dirt cheap changes they really do add up these 2 therm and ud at 160 and what 20 = ~$180.

Sorry that is a lot to me for a POSSIBLE marginal gain.

BattleShip

Determine where you are, where you want to go, PLAN and follow the plan.

Just because someone gained X hp does not mean you will! For example a friend had an LS1 he added 4.11 gears and went 8.35 added a cold air intake went 8.32. He read where a stall picks a car up so he added a 3800 he went 8.37. He went to the track for a year and never improved. Shirley had left the building.

So when you hear surely you will gain remember like Murphy she is CRUEL!

BattleShip

$160 should be applied to other areas of improvement, 1.6 RR, better valve springs, etc

As for dyno proof there is a dyno showing how the Tornado increases hp therefore has to improve gas mileage but I don’t know of anyone who actually got better gas mileage. I have a friend who did buy one…

BattleShip

Focus on your target—where do you want your car to be? Say 12.99 determine what your car weighs then go get what most people need to achieve that hp plus a little more. Add up the cost if you can afford it do it.

BUT get a plan and follow it. TRUST me we ALL do the same we change along the way wasting money at each change. Be different do it right and for minimum cost! Hardest part is being honest about what you want.