95_transam_lt1

iTrader: (6)

Ok, So one more question, now if i take care of the crank and rods (
either repair or replace) and put new pistons should i get the assembly balanced?

BattleShip

I usually don't because I try to do it cheap and I don't intend to DD. It is driven on road but not daily. Balancing adds longevity if you can afford it it is nice insurance if not to expensive, remember shipping both ways....

But if you can carry it to and from go for it add it all on paper and see if you can swing it remember leave 10% for surprises.

BattleShip

I am bulding it now. I was trying to load pics but seems they are to large..had smaller i guess i left them at work

95_transam_lt1

iTrader: (6)

Nice i def want to see some pics. Yea ive been trying to price out all this stuff. I just got a fire lit under my *** last night when we went to a carshow and a cruise and I had the quietest car but not the slowest (some wierdo with a srt was following and a v6 stang ran out of n20 lol).

TODDS93T/A

Hey what part of chicago are you from i grew up in nw indiana portage area lived in tampa last 7 years but any way here is a link to my ta engine build http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2292425

95_transam_lt1

iTrader: (6)

im from elmwood park il

95_transam_lt1

iTrader: (6)

looks good man, i have a couple questions, where can i get the girdle from? and are the lt1/lt4 cranks the same

BattleShip

I got my main girdle on ebay remember to get the one piece rear seal. I'm not sure on the cranks, but the LT1 is STRONG! Have rods resized and new rod bolts. I also stud the top and bottom if you do it is quite bullet proof.


If you will race a larger oil pan is also a good investment. I don't know what fits for F body I am sure there are many.

95_transam_lt1

iTrader: (6)

stud top and bottom? head and main studs?

95_transam_lt1

iTrader: (6)

also are the rods the same as a older 350? my brother has a set of scat forged rods that i would love to use

BattleShip

Stud upper and lower--yes. The lower studs came with the main girdle I bought. I don't recall who I bought it from. Studs are IMO a good trade when you consider the price of new bolts. LT1 rods are stronger than many after market rods.

Decide what the engine is meant to be HP goals, budget etc. A one of these and one of those approach is never good. Bigger is NOT better, and stronger than you need is not recommended either.

Decide what you want, what you can spend, what you can do yourself then price what it will cost. Remember there are always surprises so plan some money >10%. LT1 is a strong engine when built stock and 350 RWHP is not much strain on a carefully built LT1. So look at every change as a waste of money and add what gives you some margin, but allows your money to build the 'best' setup for your budget.

I am not saying you don't put margin, but a setup that will take 700 RWHP doesn't make sense in a 350 RWHP build.

BattleShip

Here are some pictures that show the 'progress'. I need to get my butt in gear since my progress has been slow....The roll cage is completed, the 4 link was welded in place last time, and rearend is all set. The motor mounts need to be welded they are in place and motor was fit checked.

I am hoping to complete it by early Fall. Problem is I play with other toys so... I had a supercharged LT1 in a Datsun 260Z, it was fun, but extremely traction limited, so this one is setup to plant more power.

Twins will be 60-1 and I will debug it with 10 psi, if needed run 14.7. The motor is a standard bore 377. The car is built to compete with a friend our goal is 5.99 1/8. He has a hybrid LT1 (406 old style SBC in a 68 Firebird with opti installed to allow ECM control of fuel injection). Both cars will use 400 turbo.

In case you notice the 'horns' in the rear, they are for the rotisserie. They are definately nice I can rotate the car 360 degrees to orient car so I can work on whatever I need with a better angle.

The setup has Moser 33 spline, 4.11 Full spool, uses 31" x 10.5" W tires, and Nodular case with S10 disc in rear. Brakes are an important safety feature and match the build.

BattleShip

The S on the 9" housing is Strange company logo. They are nearly unbreakable, the setup will take alot more hp than I can ever make. The race weight should be < 2700lbs, my other Datsun weighted 2850.

The car is a 1975 Datsun 280 that I bought for $200. Actually the guy gave me two and I grabbed parts from the other to make this one. I am hoping to get the floor in it this weekend, fuel cell mounted, and if I am lucky the seats in place.

I am changing the heads and cam out of Buick first. An example of a setup not working as planned. I have aluminum heads and a small cam that I will replace with stock iron, and stock iron cam. Since the car tows my cars it is driven on street, and the present setup sucks.

I fell for the little more will be better moto like we all do. Now it will cost me time to replace. And no the heads won't be ported--because it won't give enough on a ~400 rwhp setup to justify my taking an hour to port them. That is telling since my friend owns a machine shop so it costs me $0.

TODDS93T/A

if you use studs you will have a very strong engine i think i recal the lt rod good up to like 450 hp the next step up i h beam like 500+

95_transam_lt1

iTrader: (6)

so will regular 350 rods work?

95_transam_lt1

iTrader: (6)

and battle ship that car looks sick

BattleShip

Goal is 5.99 1/8 should be a fun few seconds