Bottom End Assembly
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I am thinkgin of building a 383 lt1 and was wondering what route i should go forged or cast, I might spray at most a 100 shot, I can only seem to find cast cranks on ebay Any Ideas
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Much of the less expensive aftermarket stuff is no better and possibly even weaker than stock. The $200 cast cranks being a prime example.
You want to spray a 100 shot go ahead and do so on the stock engine it is better than most "budget" builds.
Power is in heads, people get too excited over strokers and often do them wrong and have guys with better thought out cobos walk all over them.
You want to spray a 100 shot go ahead and do so on the stock engine it is better than most "budget" builds.
Power is in heads, people get too excited over strokers and often do them wrong and have guys with better thought out cobos walk all over them.
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Everyone seems to think the stock LT1 engine rotating assembly is weak I will tell you it is NOT weak.
I ran 12 psi on stock rods and crank without a problem with only forged SBC blower pistons and rings were ~$400. A friend uses the same setup with twin turbo's so if we haven't broken a crank or rod making ~>600 rwhp I am confident you will have no problem making a reliable street 350 at an affordable cost.
Good luck
I ran 12 psi on stock rods and crank without a problem with only forged SBC blower pistons and rings were ~$400. A friend uses the same setup with twin turbo's so if we haven't broken a crank or rod making ~>600 rwhp I am confident you will have no problem making a reliable street 350 at an affordable cost.
Good luck
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I am trying Probe 9:1 pistons in the Buick, but don't have enough data to rate their longevity. They were ~$370 with rings shipped. I am running 9 psi on them making around 400 rwhp with a stock iron LT1 heads and cam
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the lt4 was in the corvette and very few f bodys hell even a lt1 in my 1993 it was hammering hard i mean i tried to blow the rod it would int let go i replaced the rod turned the crank had no cylnder wear good to go good luck
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ya mafia motorsports down here is that way waste of time this site is addictive you could probity you could use one out of a caprice or road master 10 less hp but you are doing a rebuild any way 1994 1996 all the same opti you could get on cheap i found a few what part of the country are you in so i can try to find one close
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Hate to bust your bubbles but a 4 bolt is weaker. The 4 bolt helps prevent the caps from walking but WEAKENs the web. A 2 bolt will hold more power and with a main girdle the caps won't walk.
A girdle is cheap and in a 2 bolt will take more than most of us will ever make.
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Now if you want to make a more bullet proof setup take a two bolt add splayed caps, main girdle, steel crank, I beam rods, forged pistons, 227 AFR, twin 60-1 and put it in a 2650 lb race weight car with a 9", with a turbo 400 now that is a Christmas present.
Santa deleted the splayed, and making me wait for the afr 227s but it should arrive long before Chistmas
I love being surprised
Santa deleted the splayed, and making me wait for the afr 227s but it should arrive long before Chistmas
I love being surprised
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These motors are tough!
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Now if you want to make a more bullet proof setup take a two bolt add splayed caps, main girdle, steel crank, I beam rods, forged pistons, 227 AFR, twin 60-1 and put it in a 2650 lb race weight car with a 9", with a turbo 400 now that is a Christmas present.
Santa deleted the splayed, and making me wait for the afr 227s but it should arrive long before Chistmas
I love being surprised
Santa deleted the splayed, and making me wait for the afr 227s but it should arrive long before Chistmas
I love being surprised
IM guessing thats your car?
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well what is wrong with the engine in it just rebuild it and if you are really wanting a 4 bolt have it spayed like battle ship said but i got to agree the 2 bolt block are very stong i have been doing this stuff for a while if the lt motors go over 200k