eagle_eyes

iTrader: (1)

well, I'm going to start gathering parts for my LT1 to put a little more power in it. if anyone would like to add your input, it would be appreciated:

I have a cc306 that my friend gave to me.
I was looking at the LT1 kit that Patriot sells...what do you guys think about it?
the heads and intake are going to be ported to better match the cam.
it will also have a 58mm TB. what do i need to do to the bottom end, if anything? I've heard that i need to spin the cam around 6500-6700 to see its full potential.
what kind of RR's should i use...SA or NSA?
what kind of lifters and pushrods too?
also, what size injectors should i use? my goal in this car is to run low 12's or high 11's, but still be somewhat streetable. of coarse, i will be doing a lot of suspension work too, but i'm looking at the motor right now. BTW its and auto 1988 firebird with a 93 LT1 out of a Z28. the car only weighs 3120 with half a tank and me out of it.

jarendt31

I can tell you that you'll want a set of 36 lb/hr. injectors, Ive got em and putting down 380rwhp and still have a little room to grow

StealthFormula

iTrader: (35)

Pushrods you will have to use a pushrod length checker to find out the correct length. Stock lifters will work if they are still in good shape, if not some LS7 lifters for $100-125 will be what you want. As far as Rockers I would go with NSA hands down since you will be spinning the motor pretty high. I would recommend Comp Cams Pro-Mag 1305-16.

BALLSS

NSA on the RR. get the manley hardened guide plates or the ISKY adjustables (i use them). trick Flow makes a good push rod but you will need to confirm geometry after the build with a PR check tool. with machined heads, possible block decking, high lift cam and 1:6 RR the PR length most likely will not be stock (7.2")

if you do intend to spin motor to 6500 or more than a stock bottom end will not be happy. Go forged with 4 bolt mains to last.

StealthFormula

iTrader: (35)

I forgot to mention if you go with NSA RR's which I highly recommend I would suggest you get the following parts. NSA RR's require the use of guideplates and studs just so you know.

Studs: ARP 134-7103
Guideplates: TFS-30400623-8

As for checking the pushrod length, this is a great length checking tool that I would recommend:

CCA-7702-1

As far as pushrods after you find out the correct length I would suggest you go with some Trick Flows.

Slowmaro95Z28

You don't need to spin it as high as you think. My cc306 is only spinning to 3400. I used LS7 lifters, GMPP guideplates, Comp Pro Mag 7/16 NSA roller rockers, ARP 7/16 rocker studs, Crane 10308 valve spring set, SVO #30 injectors, Summit 58mm tb, and PCM for less tune. All gaskets were Fel Pro from a local part store. I also replaced my timing chain with a stock replacement chain (reused the timing gears). Good luck with the swap and just ask if you need any more advise.

eagle_eyes

iTrader: (1)

thanks for the replies!
correct me if i'm wrong, but the cam spins half the speed of the crank, right? if so, then 3400 would be 6800 RPM's. when i said 6500 to 6700, i was refering to RPM's, because 13000 would be crazy!

i've always known trickflow to be somewhat of a lessor desired brand, but appearently they make good pushrods.

i've read up on the crank being capable of holding over 400hp, so would i be safe running the stock crank? i'm not going to boost it or spray it, but if i do use the stock crank, i'm definitely going to make sure it's balanced. i'm looking to get somewhere around 400+rwhp

if i change out the pistons and rods, what brand do you guys suggest?

does anyone know anything about Patriot gold dual springs, titanium retainers, locks, etc. that they sell all together...i think the p/n is 8401...or something like that? i have i friend that put patriot springs in a cammed silverado (nightmarechevy) and he liked them. i was curious if the LT1 will like them?

StealthFormula

iTrader: (35)

^I have heard that they are pretty nice springs but I cant speak from experience. I have also heard that the spring wire that they use is a little on the cheaper side but again I cant speak from personal experience. They do seem like they are a nice spring to go with overall tho. I would also recommend you look into what PAC has to offer they seem to make great springs, the 1218's are .600" lift beehives and the 1518's are the same but nitrided for extra strength and can handle up to a .650" lift.

eagle_eyes

iTrader: (1)

so, should i go with a spring that will handle a .600 lift, or ,650 lift? the cam with 1.6 rr's will be at 544/576. .600 will work, but if i bought a set that has a .650 rate, will it hurt the hp or not?

GIZMO

iTrader: (8)

The stock crank and two bolt mains will be fine. If this motor is going to be N/A only, I would suggest buying the lightest, best quality forged pistons and rods that you can afford. Pay for good machine work and it should last. IMO 36 lb injectors would be a mistake.

Good Luck,

Daren