10's again. New best MPH 128
06-22-2008, 11:24 AM
#43
Once I got all the required equipment in my car there was not much street car left. Only thing I really ditched was the A/C(kept heater) and the ABS and airbags. Making one of these pigs legal and lite is not as easy it it looks
I must admit I am getting tired of opti's! Lost another one last week!
I was stuck running 11.0s shifting at 6,200
06-23-2008, 12:33 PM
#48
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I must admit I am getting tired of opti's! Lost another one last week! I was stuck running 11.0s shifting at 6,200
06-23-2008, 02:43 PM
#49
My opti is living fine, many many times to 6700 rpm.
Before it was installed I took the cap off and green loctited the rotor screws. Has been doing well ever since.
So Just so I got this straight, the car is now completely gutted and has a 4.88 gear, and went 128 mph? WIth 500rwhp?
SO what does it weigh ready to race on this particular track outing? 3300?
Before it was installed I took the cap off and green loctited the rotor screws. Has been doing well ever since.
So Just so I got this straight, the car is now completely gutted and has a 4.88 gear, and went 128 mph? WIth 500rwhp?
SO what does it weigh ready to race on this particular track outing? 3300?
06-23-2008, 10:01 PM
#52
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TwoFast4Lv: I have been running my GM Opti for some time now well over 7,000 RPM. You really should be getting more life out of it than you have been. If you have a vented Opti, be sure that the OEM vacuum break is inline with the hose to the manifold. If you don't have it installed, your opti will die in a matter of hours. Also, how much does your car weigh? I have all of the stuff you took out. Where those parts heavy?
OutlawZ: The rear mount is way to play
. I like how you just cut the BS and got it done.
Ed Wright: Thanks Ed, your opinion is valuable and I hope to get the times down there.
95 Formula: I looked at the M/Ts but ended up with the Hoosiers due to lack of experience with M/Ts (fear of the unknown I guess). It's a good suggestion, and I will experiment with the tires as soon as I can get a budget together. Do you have any thoughts on the M/T DRs? Just for laughs I will bring the ZR-1s w/ Eagle GS-D3s the next time I go out.
No, nothing on the car changed from any of the previous runs other than the 4:88 (up from 4:10). The goal with the gear change was to keep the engine in the power band longer (for the 1/4 mi. that is). Also, please read my post on page 1 that describes the cars current state. It seems that you are making the mistake of thinking that the car makes 500 RWHP every time it runs. You have to understand that the 500 RWHP # was an SAE corrected number. All cars vary in their power output depending on air density (day to day/ hour by hour). So, after some air density calculations, I estimate the car was putting down approximately 480 RWHP on that particular day. If I had -1,100' DA it would of made approximately 535 RWHP. So you see, air density is the mothers’ milk of HP. However, it's not the only factor. For example, the humidity (and for that matter GPP or grains per pound) will play a role in the amount of power our engines make. As Warren Johnson recently said, "It's not a Stanly Steamer. We can't burn water." At this time I can't estimate the cost to HP as they relate to GPP, that's why the numbers mentioned above are only estimates. To paraphrase a quote from Bob Varsha 'That's why we run the races.' I hope this helps clear up any questions you may have with regard to HP.
OutlawZ: The rear mount is way to play
. I like how you just cut the BS and got it done.Ed Wright: Thanks Ed, your opinion is valuable and I hope to get the times down there.
95 Formula: I looked at the M/Ts but ended up with the Hoosiers due to lack of experience with M/Ts (fear of the unknown I guess). It's a good suggestion, and I will experiment with the tires as soon as I can get a budget together. Do you have any thoughts on the M/T DRs? Just for laughs I will bring the ZR-1s w/ Eagle GS-D3s the next time I go out.
No, nothing on the car changed from any of the previous runs other than the 4:88 (up from 4:10). The goal with the gear change was to keep the engine in the power band longer (for the 1/4 mi. that is). Also, please read my post on page 1 that describes the cars current state. It seems that you are making the mistake of thinking that the car makes 500 RWHP every time it runs. You have to understand that the 500 RWHP # was an SAE corrected number. All cars vary in their power output depending on air density (day to day/ hour by hour). So, after some air density calculations, I estimate the car was putting down approximately 480 RWHP on that particular day. If I had -1,100' DA it would of made approximately 535 RWHP. So you see, air density is the mothers’ milk of HP. However, it's not the only factor. For example, the humidity (and for that matter GPP or grains per pound) will play a role in the amount of power our engines make. As Warren Johnson recently said, "It's not a Stanly Steamer. We can't burn water." At this time I can't estimate the cost to HP as they relate to GPP, that's why the numbers mentioned above are only estimates. To paraphrase a quote from Bob Varsha 'That's why we run the races.' I hope this helps clear up any questions you may have with regard to HP.
06-23-2008, 11:25 PM
#53
95 Formula: I looked at the M/Ts but ended up with the Hoosiers due to lack of experience with M/Ts (fear of the unknown I guess). It's a good suggestion, and I will experiment with the tires as soon as I can get a budget together. Do you have any thoughts on the M/T DRs? Just for laughs I will bring the ZR-1s w/ Eagle GS-D3s the next time I go out.
06-25-2008, 02:45 PM
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OutlawZ: The rear mount is way to play . I like how you just cut the BS and got it done.
And yeah I will vouch for the MT DR's on an auto car.... Hell if I had a 4.88 gear I could probably cut 1.3's on the motor on that tire.... With 4 and 8 on the shocks two weeks ago I dumped it on the brake at 4K and I thought for sure the Torque arm snapped in half.....
06-25-2008, 03:31 PM
#56
The DRs are great tires..on a auto..lol. I've never tried them on my car but from what I've been told my Madman and other racers a 6 speed car that actually tries to launch instead of walking it out hits the tires too hard. The sidewall can't take the hit of a big 6 speed launch and when they break loose they don't recover well like a slick.
07-01-2008, 12:54 AM
#57
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What is the best rubber compound for the M/Ts? Drag or DOT?
Would the DRs perform well on the street? They may not be the best for a full on drag race, but how about a rolling start?
Would the DRs perform well on the street? They may not be the best for a full on drag race, but how about a rolling start?
07-01-2008, 08:32 AM
#58
Guys Most the fix's you have for Opti's us old guys came up with This time it was the optics them selves. She is back to 7,200and just turning 13.0 AFR when she get's there 
I only got one hit before running friday and reved it hard into the limiter in time trial's. First round she ran 11.15@114 HARD on the brakes and still broke out LOL.
I am hitting my 325/50-15 Radials with 4,000 off the brake and coming up and foot off the line. 1.4x 60fts N/A tripping the scales at 3,540
GOTTA LOVE MADMAN!!
This time it was the optics them selves. She is back to 7,200and just turning 13.0 AFR when she get's there I only got one hit before running friday and reved it hard into the limiter in time trial's. First round she ran 11.15@114 HARD on the brakes and still broke out LOL.
I am hitting my 325/50-15 Radials with 4,000 off the brake and coming up and foot off the line. 1.4x 60fts N/A tripping the scales at 3,540
GOTTA LOVE MADMAN!!
