LT1 cam and engine upgrade advice...PLEASE HELP!
07-17-2008, 01:37 AM
#21
I have a 97 LT1 Camaro and I am rebuilding the engine. I am educated on engines somewhat but when it comes to cams and rear ends and such im a little lost. Below is a detailed list of the engine modifications in the works for my LT1 engine. Anyone who has any experience, or ANYTHING, please pitch in your 2 cents and I would much appreciate it!
350 SB LT1 rebuilt and honed out...nothing drastic at all, just rebuilt
LT1 Alum. heads, street port and polish and a valve job but not oversized
Intake manifold ported to match heads and throttle body, and internals smoothed out
52mm Throttle body matched to intake manifold w/ an airfoil inside to stop the dead air
Smooth intake duct, High-Flow MAF, and SLP Cold Air Intake
Pacesetter long tube headers ported to match heads and rear O2 sensors deleted
Exhaust Y'd into single high flow CAT, to a flowmaster muffler, then 2 tailpipes
Underdrive Crank pulley and overdrive alternator pulley
EGR system deleted, AIR system deleted
160 degree thermostat, fans set to turn on at 180
AC Delco SP Wires, Spark Plugs, and front O2 sensors
Stage 3 clutch
Aluminum Flywheel
Complete computer tune to delete O2 sensors, EGR, AIR, re-set fan temp, etc etc etc.
NOW....my questions are this:
1. What cam would you recommend for a street car with a setup such as this? I am looking for something mild that isnt going to cost me a fortune and wont beef up my engine too much more, but will work nicely with what I am doing...I need a brand, lift/duration, etc recommendations if possible.
2. With all this done does my suspension need an upgrade? I am adding on a Hotchkis STB but do I need more or am I good? I was thinking SFC's and maybe a Torque Arm. I also have Polyurethane motor and tranny mounts.
3. How do you think my stock rear end is going to hold up to this??? and even my stock driveshaft?? Do I need to upgrady those as well?
4. If anyone has any other recommendations please feel free to let me know!! I could use the advice! THANKS!!!
350 SB LT1 rebuilt and honed out...nothing drastic at all, just rebuilt
LT1 Alum. heads, street port and polish and a valve job but not oversized
Intake manifold ported to match heads and throttle body, and internals smoothed out
52mm Throttle body matched to intake manifold w/ an airfoil inside to stop the dead air
Smooth intake duct, High-Flow MAF, and SLP Cold Air Intake
Pacesetter long tube headers ported to match heads and rear O2 sensors deleted
Exhaust Y'd into single high flow CAT, to a flowmaster muffler, then 2 tailpipes
Underdrive Crank pulley and overdrive alternator pulley
EGR system deleted, AIR system deleted
160 degree thermostat, fans set to turn on at 180
AC Delco SP Wires, Spark Plugs, and front O2 sensors
Stage 3 clutch
Aluminum Flywheel
Complete computer tune to delete O2 sensors, EGR, AIR, re-set fan temp, etc etc etc.
NOW....my questions are this:
1. What cam would you recommend for a street car with a setup such as this? I am looking for something mild that isnt going to cost me a fortune and wont beef up my engine too much more, but will work nicely with what I am doing...I need a brand, lift/duration, etc recommendations if possible.
2. With all this done does my suspension need an upgrade? I am adding on a Hotchkis STB but do I need more or am I good? I was thinking SFC's and maybe a Torque Arm. I also have Polyurethane motor and tranny mounts.
3. How do you think my stock rear end is going to hold up to this??? and even my stock driveshaft?? Do I need to upgrady those as well?
4. If anyone has any other recommendations please feel free to let me know!! I could use the advice! THANKS!!!
07-18-2008, 04:49 PM
#23
For pistons I would go with nothing less than Mahle forged. All the cheaper gen 1 targeted stuff will work, BUT are often lesser than the stock LT1 parts. Might as well put some new rods in it too since you can get some pretty good Scat ones for $300 and even just rebuilding stockers will cost $160+ at most decent shops. Stock crank is pretty good.
07-18-2008, 05:09 PM
#24
For pistons I would go with nothing less than Mahle forged. All the cheaper gen 1 targeted stuff will work, BUT are often lesser than the stock LT1 parts. Might as well put some new rods in it too since you can get some pretty good Scat ones for $300 and even just rebuilding stockers will cost $160+ at most decent shops. Stock crank is pretty good.
07-18-2008, 05:44 PM
#25
What are you calling a "rebuilt stocker"? Fresh bearings and rings?
I am saying if you replace the pistons atall go with the Mahle. The stock pistons are a Mahle and have a thinner lower tension ring pack than most smallblock pistons wich results in more power to the wheels and less wear. Heck even if you only do the pistons the Mahle forged are lighter than the stock hypereutectic which will improve reliability. The weak link in the stock setup is the rod bearings, and in all likelyhood what causes them to fail is rod bolt strech and cap movement at high rpms, you rebuild the stock rods and put lighter pistons on them and it will improve reliability a fair bit. Like I said though rebuilding stock rods will cost at least $160 from everything I have seen and better rods are as cheap as $300 and in that case you could go 6" further lightening things and improving reliability a bit more.
I am saying if you replace the pistons atall go with the Mahle. The stock pistons are a Mahle and have a thinner lower tension ring pack than most smallblock pistons wich results in more power to the wheels and less wear. Heck even if you only do the pistons the Mahle forged are lighter than the stock hypereutectic which will improve reliability. The weak link in the stock setup is the rod bearings, and in all likelyhood what causes them to fail is rod bolt strech and cap movement at high rpms, you rebuild the stock rods and put lighter pistons on them and it will improve reliability a fair bit. Like I said though rebuilding stock rods will cost at least $160 from everything I have seen and better rods are as cheap as $300 and in that case you could go 6" further lightening things and improving reliability a bit more.
07-18-2008, 07:18 PM
#26
What are you calling a "rebuilt stocker"? Fresh bearings and rings?
I am saying if you replace the pistons atall go with the Mahle. The stock pistons are a Mahle and have a thinner lower tension ring pack than most smallblock pistons wich results in more power to the wheels and less wear. Heck even if you only do the pistons the Mahle forged are lighter than the stock hypereutectic which will improve reliability. The weak link in the stock setup is the rod bearings, and in all likelyhood what causes them to fail is rod bolt strech and cap movement at high rpms, you rebuild the stock rods and put lighter pistons on them and it will improve reliability a fair bit. Like I said though rebuilding stock rods will cost at least $160 from everything I have seen and better rods are as cheap as $300 and in that case you could go 6" further lightening things and improving reliability a bit more.
I am saying if you replace the pistons atall go with the Mahle. The stock pistons are a Mahle and have a thinner lower tension ring pack than most smallblock pistons wich results in more power to the wheels and less wear. Heck even if you only do the pistons the Mahle forged are lighter than the stock hypereutectic which will improve reliability. The weak link in the stock setup is the rod bearings, and in all likelyhood what causes them to fail is rod bolt strech and cap movement at high rpms, you rebuild the stock rods and put lighter pistons on them and it will improve reliability a fair bit. Like I said though rebuilding stock rods will cost at least $160 from everything I have seen and better rods are as cheap as $300 and in that case you could go 6" further lightening things and improving reliability a bit more.
